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Old 04-26-2012, 11:11 PM   #961
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Thanks heaps for taking the time an making a detail reply - appreciate it and I'll see how I go on Friday.


No problem. I also saw you dont have the RSD pistons for this week. AE#2 are close, so use those till you can switch out.

Try paragon on your sorex's for 30 min, then wipe them off or take a few laps slow to get it off your tires. If your racing at night 28's are usually the ticket. If the surface is rough, monitor your tire wear. Sorex's last, I would bet with 21.5 you can get at least 10 races out of them before they start to fade...

Good luck.
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Old 04-27-2012, 08:23 AM   #962
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My car drove awesome tonight! The mounts with short links made a massive difference and gave me much more confidence as the car responded far better to my inputs. I had a few run ins with other drivers which put me back in the pack a bit but I can't blame the car for that

A couple of the other drivers commented on how much better the car looked on the track.

The setup felt spot on - some of the guys in my final said the track was slippery but I didn't notice (I basically used Cristian's base setup with the droop settings from dorkmissile)

Looking forward to my springs and shock parts showing up (hopefully for next week).

I'll also give the paragon a go next time (didn't get to read your post till after the race).

Cheers!
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Old 04-27-2012, 03:16 PM   #963
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I was marshalling your heat Gary and your car looked lots better.

I tried the bladders for the first time last night and i didnt like them, i must be the only person on the planet not to

The car just didnt feel planted compared to last week the car just lost its bite it had, and that was the only change i made.

Ill run a back to back comparison next week just to make sure nothing else is wrong.

Beth.
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Old 04-28-2012, 07:22 PM   #964
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RSD DCJ's worked well for me today. No breakage running mod (5.0) outdoors. Something else you can do to help keep the pins from shifting, is flat spot the pins. This has always worked well for me running previous DCJ's, and seemed to be just as good with these.
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:22 AM   #965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geeunit1014 View Post
RSD DCJ's worked well for me today. No breakage running mod (5.0) outdoors. Something else you can do to help keep the pins from shifting, is flat spot the pins. This has always worked well for me running previous DCJ's, and seemed to be just as good with these.
+1 on the DCJ's and they are rebuildable!

Here is something describing 'bulletproofing' a CVD. I'd do everything but the shoe goo thing. You should only need loctite on the screw.


http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/rebuild-cvd.htm
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:05 AM   #966
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Can I use your Reflex Bladders on my T3 2012? Thanks
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Old 04-29-2012, 11:27 AM   #967
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Can I use your Reflex Bladders on my T3 2012? Thanks
Yes you can. A few pages back there is a quick review from RDodge after putting a set I gave him in his T3 2012 shocks.
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:58 PM   #968
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Hi Cristian,

Are you using the TC6 servo horn with the RSD6 or a different one? If different what is the distance between the center of the servo screw and the center of the ballstud hole? Looks like I get the following distance with the following horns on a Tamiya 51000 servo saver:

Large Tamiya Horn - 15 or 17mm
xspede Horn - 14 or 17mm



Thanks.
This got buried at the bottom of the last page so asking again. Also when will the power terminals be back in stock? Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:03 PM   #969
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The Longer the horn, the better. A longer horn will give faster steering response.

The power terminals are back in stock as of today. We also have received the new version that is designed to work with flat solder tabs better.
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:38 PM   #970
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Can't get you to give me a length can I? just trying to figure out what worked for you to see if I'm close.

Order some power terminals. New ones look great. Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:25 PM   #971
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I am leaving you with some first pics and a little report on the new chassis:













I tested the car yesterday on our local asphalt track. There were a couple of things of note:

-The car is more responsive, it switches directions much easier. It seems as the decreased chassis width drags much less, which allows to change directions quicker.

-The narrower chassis design allowed me to set the car up softer than the TC6.1 std chassis. This in turn, allowed me to set the car up with softer springs. The softer the springs, the better, has always been my motto. Softer springs allow the car to accelerate faster as the car becomes more bump compliant. The RSD6 accelerates much better than the TC6/TC6.1

-The Dual belcrank steering makes the car much easier to drive. MUCH EASIER. The car is more neutral when set-up for aggressive, tight corner steering. Gone is the "edginess" of running low ackerman settings to get around really tight hairpins. It is nice that I can adjust my ackerman in 0.5mm increments now. I LOVE playing with ackerman.

-The increased flex at the bulkheads made the car dialed with Solaris Hard tires. Typically we have an open tire rule at our club. While everyone was on open tires, I reverted back to a "spec" type tire. My car was the fastest by 2 tenths of a second on spec tires (while it typically is 2 tenths slower with spec tires). What I do need to mention is that the grip was "weird" at the track yesterday. My car was the only one to make consistent grip. Maybe the Solaris tires were simply better last night.

Keep in mind this is a prototype, so a few changes will be made before production. We are re-positioning the servo mount to fit a servo saver better. We are also making some additional cuts at the rear. Pre orders will go up soon, if you are interested, please go ahead and order one. We are not making a whole lot in the first production run.
I just noticed the car with the electronics has the motor mount hole in the chassis and the other doesn't. I assume the production version does?
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:29 PM   #972
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Also did you flip the top deck over and if so why ?
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:11 PM   #973
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The production version will have the motor mount screw hole countersunk and in the same spot. We tested 2 different versions, with and without the motor mount screw to see what, if any effect it had. We felt no difference between the two. I was trying to see if the motor mount affected much in the handling and grip department. If this was the case, we may have made a different motor mount.

The top deck is flipped over to provide a little more flex. This chassis is 2.5mm where the TC6 is 2.0mm. Being narrower, it has good flex, but the deck is a little stiffer than the TC6. The chassis does flex more at the bulkheads, which is where we want to isolate the flex to provide more grip at both sides of the car. The production version will have a broader usable flex range than the prototypes as well as the TC6 chassis.

You will basically be able to go from very stiff (stiffer than the TC6/6.1 is able to be set at) by using a standard top deck, steering bell crank bridge and all 10 top deck screws with countersink side. All the way to soft where you can run no steering bridge, and cut, flipped top deck, which makes it softer than the TC6 (since it does not have the top deck and bottom deck tied together by the uni-crank).

I like the chassis on the softer side for asphalt racing. I am pretty sure that many will prefer the car slightly stiffer on carpet.

The chassis is shipping from the factory on May 3rd. This probably means that they should all be on the way to customers by the end of next week.
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:11 PM   #974
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How is the car on carpet?
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Old 04-30-2012, 09:22 PM   #975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Can't get you to give me a length can I? just trying to figure out what worked for you to see if I'm close.

Order some power terminals. New ones look great. Thanks.
There is no magic number really. It depends on your servo speed and how fast you want your steering response. I have tried an AE RC8.2 Steering arm and an XRAY steering arm and did not notice much difference, the AE horn did make the steering a bit faster, since it was longer. I am running a KO PDS2413.

If you want a number, I'd say no less than the 17mm point.
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