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Old 04-23-2012, 08:18 AM   #946
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The kimbrough mid size is not ideal length. It is a bit short. The RSD6 has high steering bellcranks so you would be better served with something taller. Otherwise you will not have full throw or you will have slow steering.

3racing makes a long/tall servo saver that's a copy of the Tamiya ones, which would probably be best.
When I ran a 416x, I used that servo saver with no issues. Ran the tallest hole on it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 08:35 AM   #947
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Mike, trust me. It won't work well.

While it uses similar geometry to 416 bell cranks, the drag link is at the top of the steering arms, not at the bottom. What ends up happening if you run a servo saver that is too short is that the link angle will be too flat and it will hit the steering drag link and this prevents full steering throw, not to mention it makes the steering way slow. I tested the Kimbrough mid size servo saver and it won't work.

If the drag link was underneath, like on the 416, this issue would not happen.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:48 PM   #948
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So will the Tamiya 51000 Servo Saver with the following horn be a good candidate?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWCR7&P=FR

or this one?

http://www.rcemergency.com/index.php...ducts_id=35766




Also what about this one? Too small?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFNE8&P=7
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:21 PM   #949
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Those don't look like savers, they are just the horn. This is what I think I like the best : http://m.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4015
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:28 PM   #950
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Those don't look like savers, they are just the horn. This is what I think I like the best : http://m.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=4015
Those are horns for the Tamiya 51000 saver. Was just looking for the length. Looks similar to the 3 racing so I'll give them a go.
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:29 PM   #951
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Tamiya version http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=tamiya+51000&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=78697244308093726&sa=X&ei=t9eVT8rgA ab30gHpp-XmBw&ved=0CCcQ8wIwAA
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Old 04-23-2012, 04:32 PM   #952
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looks like you got it!
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Old 04-24-2012, 01:50 PM   #953
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Hey I placed my order last week, the upgrade kit, dcj, and new chassis. Will my whole order be held until the chassis is available to ship? And if so is there a eta? Saw the dcj and they are soooo tight. Thanks
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Old 04-24-2012, 02:20 PM   #954
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the 3racing saver is a direct copy of the tamiya, but much softer and dont center as good as the tamiya one.

curious about the rsd chassi set for the tc6, looks really good! im racing on a low/medium asphalt track here in the summer, would the chassi help me to gain more traction?

and hows the handling on carpet?
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Old 04-24-2012, 03:12 PM   #955
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The chassis generates more flex at the bulkheads and is narrower, so it can be set-up softer, so I would think you could squeeze more traction out of it than a TC6.

I have not tested on carpet, but I typically run very similar set-ups from our asphalt track to the carpet track in Dallas. I would think that the set-ups should translate really well as the car is much easier to drive with the RSD6 chassis on asphalt, the same case should be with the carpet.

As for chassis. All orders that were placed with a chassis, will be shipped once the chassis come in stock.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:53 PM   #956
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Hi All,

I got my TC6 second hand and it came with a set of RSD TC6 Vertical Stud Shock Tower Mounts, but the car was set to the kit TC6 setup.

I've been racing for about 10 months now and have not tried out the mounts as every change I seem to make from the kit setup seems to make me either slower or loose grip too much - given I dont really know what I am doing I'm not surprised :P - so I'm asking for some advise:

I'm running:
21.5T Blinky Motor
Sorex 32 or 28 tires (getting cooler at night)
On a Low grip temporary track that is on concrete (thankfully not polished concrete :P)

I am going to start with the "standard" setup that Cristian posted earlier in this thread but was wondering if that will that still be a good starting point for me (considering the slower motor and lower grip)?

If I find the car a handful when I am at the track what adjustments should I make while I am there that will give me more traction?

I also noticed that when using the black ball studs on the front hub with +3mm spacer that the thread bearly bites in - is this ok? Is the silver ball stud with +2mm the same total height/same thing?

Sorry for all the questions - excited to try this out and it seems Associated is not popular at our club as there is only one other person running a TC6.1 and they dont have these mounts (well not last time I looked )

Cheers!

PS. I also have a spring set and shock bladders/pistions in the post as I type this but they wont arrive before I race next.
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Old 04-25-2012, 09:54 PM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazmanster View Post
Hi All,

I got my TC6 second hand and it came with a set of RSD TC6 Vertical Stud Shock Tower Mounts, but the car was set to the kit TC6 setup.

I've been racing for about 10 months now and have not tried out the mounts as every change I seem to make from the kit setup seems to make me either slower or loose grip too much - given I dont really know what I am doing I'm not surprised :P - so I'm asking for some advise:

I'm running:
21.5T Blinky Motor
Sorex 32 or 28 tires (getting cooler at night)
On a Low grip temporary track that is on concrete (thankfully not polished concrete :P)

I am going to start with the "standard" setup that Cristian posted earlier in this thread but was wondering if that will that still be a good starting point for me (considering the slower motor and lower grip)?

If I find the car a handful when I am at the track what adjustments should I make while I am there that will give me more traction?

I also noticed that when using the black ball studs on the front hub with +3mm spacer that the thread bearly bites in - is this ok? Is the silver ball stud with +2mm the same total height/same thing?

Sorry for all the questions - excited to try this out and it seems Associated is not popular at our club as there is only one other person running a TC6.1 and they dont have these mounts (well not last time I looked )

Cheers!

PS. I also have a spring set and shock bladders/pistions in the post as I type this but they wont arrive before I race next.
Gazmaster,

I don't know about the ball studs, but you want 5 or 6 threads to engage for sure. Also make sure the top of the stud doesn't hit your rim, i have this problem with some sorex tires i have, the rim is slightly smaller in diameter than my sweeps.


I've never run rubber TC on concrete, but CT's standard setup is always a good place to start. Some questions

1) Is it a tennis court? Tell us more about the concrete surface, is it prepped or dirty?
2) Are you allowed to use tire sauce (jack the gripper, paragon etc...), if so use whatever others at your track are using.
3) How big is the track, overall rectangle dimensions, longest straight. make sure you are geared correctly.

Running a 21.5 you might want softer springs, but really the 17.5 standard setup he has posted should be close.

Work in this order, these are 5 things i consider key. Of course there tons of other adjustments but these are the biggies.
1) Tires Tires Tires (first settle on a set of tires you like without doing anything)
2) Springs (14.5lb front and 13.5lb rear is normal, shocks in #2 hole, go lighter for more overall traction and slower response. Higher lb rating for less traction/quicker response)
3) Oil (550 cst front, 450cst rear, go lighter if traction is low, dusty etc..you shouldn't need to go heavier than this)
4) Droop (using the AE gauge as shown in the manual, 6mm front, 5mm rear, this adjustment is sensitive! refer to manual for effects, its also easy to change and try out right on the track, just take your body off and carefully add or remove turns as needed, make sure you do the same right to left! then see the effect right away)
5) Rear Toe (3 deg is normal, 3.5 if traction sucks)

(check your ride height too! typically ride height is 5mm front and back, i don't play with RH that much)

Also i recommend you adjust your camber links to use the inside holes on the RSD mounts, you might need a short link I can't remember. it really livens up the car. Make sure you have the slipper spool tight in the front and use either a gear diff (30wt for AE gear, 600cst for spec-r) or ball diff (med tight) in the rear, kit diff height settings.

Good luck! Make one adjustment at a time after selecting your tires!
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazmanster View Post
Sorry for all the questions - excited to try this out and it seems Associated is not popular at our club as there is only one other person running a TC6.1 and they dont have these mounts (well not last time I looked )
Hay Gary, Nope not running them (if you mean me)

Have you tried the 0 roll center arm mounts yet ?? I think this helps at Castle Hill with the brushed concrete.

Beth.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:26 AM   #959
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Originally Posted by dorkmissle View Post
1) Is it a tennis court? Tell us more about the concrete surface, is it prepped or dirty?
2) Are you allowed to use tire sauce (jack the gripper, paragon etc...), if so use whatever others at your track are using.
3) How big is the track, overall rectangle dimensions, longest straight. make sure you are geared correctly.
Where we race is a part of a show grounds - it is a covered open walled rectangle "shed" that is used for multiple purposes (when we are not racing on Fridays it seems it is used for showing dogs/amimals )
It is brushed concrete that is not overly rough and can be dirty (but the guys down there do a great job blowing the dirt/dust off for every race meet).
We can use tire sauce. Simple Green seems to be popular but I know there are various others in use including paragon.
I'm not exactly sure of the dimensions the space is a rectangle but the track is laid out and is far from a rectangle we use a rollout of around 60+ in 21.5 class.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkmissle View Post
Running a 21.5 you might want softer springs, but really the 17.5 standard setup he has posted should be close.

Work in this order, these are 5 things i consider key. Of course there tons of other adjustments but these are the biggies.
1) Tires Tires Tires (first settle on a set of tires you like without doing anything)
2) Springs (14.5lb front and 13.5lb rear is normal, shocks in #2 hole, go lighter for more overall traction and slower response. Higher lb rating for less traction/quicker response)
3) Oil (550 cst front, 450cst rear, go lighter if traction is low, dusty etc..you shouldn't need to go heavier than this)
4) Droop (using the AE gauge as shown in the manual, 6mm front, 5mm rear, this adjustment is sensitive! refer to manual for effects, its also easy to change and try out right on the track, just take your body off and carefully add or remove turns as needed, make sure you do the same right to left! then see the effect right away)
5) Rear Toe (3 deg is normal, 3.5 if traction sucks)

(check your ride height too! typically ride height is 5mm front and back, i don't play with RH that much)
Great info thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkmissle View Post
Also i recommend you adjust your camber links to use the inside holes on the RSD mounts, you might need a short link I can't remember. it really livens up the car. Make sure you have the slipper spool tight in the front and use either a gear diff (30wt for AE gear, 600cst for spec-r) or ball diff (med tight) in the rear, kit diff height settings.
I'll use the short links that came with the car.
I also have a spec-r diff in the rear and a spool in the front.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkmissle View Post
Good luck! Make one adjustment at a time after selecting your tires!
Thanks heaps for taking the time an making a detail reply - appreciate it and I'll see how I go on Friday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evochick View Post
Hay Gary, Nope not running them (if you mean me)

Have you tried the 0 roll center arm mounts yet ?? I think this helps at Castle Hill with the brushed concrete.

Beth.
Hi Beth,
Yep had you in mind with the TC6.1 (seems AE is in a minority down at the Hill).
The setup I am trying is using the 0 roll centre mounts. Thanks for that suggestion. Lots to learn, catch you on Friday.

Cheers,
Gary
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:21 PM   #960
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Hi Cristian,

Are you using the TC6 servo horn with the RSD6 or a different one? If different what is the distance between the center of the servo screw and the center of the ballstud hole? Looks like I get the following distance with the following horns on a Tamiya 51000 servo saver:

Large Tamiya Horn - 15 or 17mm
xspede Horn - 14 or 17mm



Thanks.
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