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Old 04-12-2012, 04:03 PM   #871
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Can't wait to try the reflex chassis!
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:39 PM   #872
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Any tips for preparing the hubs for the DCJs?

- is the material removed equally or more towards one side? In the photo it seems like more is removed from the rear of the hub.

- How much is removed and what is the best way to remove it?

Any plans to sell hubs that work well with the DCJs?

Thanks.
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Old 04-12-2012, 07:51 PM   #873
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I use a dremel with a sanding stone. Try to take off equally on each side and test fit. The hole should be 9.5 to 10mm wide. Just take your time.

We are considering maybe aluminum hubs that use inserts to make it easier.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:19 PM   #874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I use a dremel with a sanding stone. Try to take off equally on each side and test fit. The hole should be 9.5 to 10mm wide. Just take your time.

We are considering maybe aluminum hubs that use inserts to make it easier.
That helps! Thanks! I would be interested in an aluminum hub should they be made.
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Old 04-12-2012, 08:24 PM   #875
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Especially if it had less sloop than the stock.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:19 PM   #876
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I also recommend some fresh loctite on the set screws!!! I am testing the production versions and 1 set screw got loose.
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:45 PM   #877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I also recommend some fresh loctite on the set screws!!! I am testing the production versions and 1 set screw got loose.
Ive always heat-shrinked my DCJs as well. That combo'd with thread lock lets them go a long time before servicing
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Old 04-12-2012, 09:50 PM   #878
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christian, tha car looks great! congrats!
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:35 PM   #879
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Thanks Mike.

We did some more testing last night with the production DCJ's and the RSD6.

The car again was very good. It is superb around sweepers and again, it accelerates like a rocket ship. I did not make any set-up changes to the car yesterday, but I did do some chassis flex tuning.

I removed the steering bridge on the bellcranks to induce a little more chassis flex, I also made a few changes to the top deck to try and get even a little more flex overall. I will post some pictures of the modifications later.

With the production version, we are making the bottom plate a little more flexible as we want to make the chassis have a broader flex tuning range. You'll be able to run it from pretty stiff, to pretty soft, by just removing a few screws or running a cut top deck.

The DCJ's were solid, but I need to stress this: USE LOCTITE on the Set screws.

All our testing has been done on asphalt with a 4.0 turn motor lately.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:49 PM   #880
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Default Dcj

Even if the grub screw comes loose with heat shrink it will keep them in one piece!
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:40 PM   #881
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Default RSD6 Current Set Up

https://reflexracing.3dcartstores.co...ard_Set_Up.pdf

I always like to establish a "starting set-up" that I like. This is a pretty good one for the RSD6.
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:48 AM   #882
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The opening for the pin for the hex is much larger than the stock pin. Seems to work regardless but if unwanted a larger pin what size would I get?

I got the 3racing hexes. You have to REALLY tighten them down to get them to hold without sliding out.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:33 AM   #883
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We have pins for them now. We just have not had a chance to put them up on the site. I will by tonight.
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:14 AM   #884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
The opening for the pin for the hex is much larger than the stock pin. Seems to work regardless but if unwanted a larger pin what size would I get?

I got the 3racing hexes. You have to REALLY tighten them down to get them to hold without sliding out.
I'm using the 3Racing hexes also and noticed that as well good thing I had some hex pins from a Team Magic G4.

I installed my DCJ's on my TC6 last night. I have to admit I really hated the C-hub modding but I understand it is required. I did mine with a body reamer and a X-acto knife. Has anyone came up with a better way of doing it? I made sure to buy extra C-hubs incase I break one
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:40 AM   #885
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I've been using a dremel as mentioned. One of the sanding drums I have is about 10mm so I just run the through and it's good. Takes about 2min to do a pair. I wouldn't worry about breaking them much, I've had the same set on my car for about 3 months with no issues.
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