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Old 12-18-2011, 02:38 PM   #616
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For the most conditions your right but I drive on a very very high bite carpet and we (AE drivers) can't get rid of the chatter no matter what we tried. I see other drivers with different brands that solved this with DCJ's. My car sounds like a bumble bee in the corners and if I make less DR I have no steering...

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Not racing on carpet here , so never have what you guys describe.

Cristian, don't take it badly, it is a comment only, if I felt I needed DCJs I'll get yours, your stuff is top, will make another order soon for my son's car, maybe by then I will need DCJs
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:42 PM   #617
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No worries, I just don't want a pissing match to start on our threads. Opinions not related to comments are often misunderstood and have the effect of taking threads on a tangent. As they are now. :P

Now if Geberit had been asking as to whether they are necessary or not, then that's a different story.

Anyways. Back on topic.

Thanks for your vouch of confidence Olly.

Scott, same with you. We are certainly interested in having shops carry our products!
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:09 PM   #618
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Christian
I used your shock tower mounts & springs this weekend on the tc6.
Holy shit is that car dialed, I ran my best lap ever on dirty tires on a low battery pack, cannot wait to get the ball studs & shock pistons!!
thanks again
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:24 PM   #619
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:32 PM   #620
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Received a couple of samples of the DCJ's. They look promising. Very nicely made. I will test them out next Thursday and see how it goes.
What company makes these dcj's and do you have to MOD any parts to get these drive shafts to work .
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:34 PM   #621
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What company makes these dcj's and do you have to MOD any parts to get these drive shafts to work .
These are prototype samples that Cristian will sale soon.
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:34 PM   #622
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Some locals at our track were just exploring my car and they felt the shocks. They were really like . They didn't expect that my TC6 had so smooth shocks. Man. Im happy.

I also have the balls stud thing (bought it from a friend, unused) and can't wait to try the new positions out.
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Old 12-20-2011, 01:54 PM   #623
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SlowPushin', Olly got the answer correct.

The only modification that needs to be done is the caster block hole needs to be enlarged slightly. I used a Hudy Body Reamer and took away material little, by little until they did not rub at full lock anymore.

Dennis, I am glad you like the parts!!
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:01 PM   #624
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I had an extra set for you to test them Frank-o! You never came out yesterday! I'll get you some next time I see you.
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These are prototype samples that Cristian will sale soon.
How long is the wait time for this product . I would love to have a set in my car now . When you have the finish product please email bogard_tq@yahoo.com
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:05 PM   #625
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Once you can get a hold of tc6.1 caster blocks you won't need to clearance them for dcj's, they are already opened up to accept them!
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:06 PM   #626
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Originally Posted by dennisV View Post
Some locals at our track were just exploring my car and they felt the shocks. They were really like . They didn't expect that my TC6 had so smooth shocks. Man. Im happy.

I also have the balls stud thing (bought it from a friend, unused) and can't wait to try the new positions out.
The Reflex pistons and bladders do 2 things for the shocks..... makes them incredibly easy to build and set rebound, AND makes them basically the smoothest shocks on the market.

As I've mentioned before, it also makes maintenance (rebuilding/topping off oil) much less frequent!

Aside from tires, I feel properly built shocks are the most important thing. If one shock is leaking or bent, it literally affects every action of the suspension!
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:32 PM   #627
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How long is the wait time for this product . I would love to have a set in my car now . When you have the finish product please email bogard_tq@yahoo.com
They will probably be ready sometime in March.
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Old 12-28-2011, 01:30 PM   #628
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Default 184mm Narrow vs Wide 190mm Track width

Ok I'm on holiday and have time to ponder my setup. Any thoughts on track width overall in regards to the wishbone spacing?

Of course wider front takes away steering/ wider rear adds steering, neglecting all the other things effected.

But what about the same setup with the min (about 184mm?) track width vs 190mm max track width (Roar Legal). Maintaining whatever relative width you run front-to-back and shock spring rate.

I'm curious if the car would react quicker with same grip. If you left the inner link position the same, then you would get slightly higher RC's, shorter links, more camber gain, but would have to adjust shock position to maintain same spring rate.

Plus the slightly narrower CG R/L weight balance. Might look a little funny with the tires so far in the body though.

Maybe just moving the link toward the inside is the same difference?

Anyone in RSD land try this back to back? I would guess stability would be affected somewhat. It's such a pain to try without a full day of practice I want some opinions first
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:41 PM   #629
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Wider will take away some traction, while increasing stability. Narrower, the car will roll more and "dig" into the corner more. That's kind of the mega cliff notes of it.

The production of the new wheel hex spacers just came in today so we can test the cars tomorrow at max width to see the effect of a wider car. While not the same as making the hinge pin position further out, it will achieve a similar effect. My feeling is that the car will react a bit slower and become a little more sluggish.
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Old 12-28-2011, 02:48 PM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkmissle View Post
Ok I'm on holiday and have time to ponder my setup. Any thoughts on track width overall in regards to the wishbone spacing?

Of course wider front takes away steering/ wider rear adds steering, neglecting all the other things effected.

But what about the same setup with the min (about 184mm?) track width vs 190mm max track width (Roar Legal). Maintaining whatever relative width you run front-to-back and shock spring rate.

I'm curious if the car would react quicker with same grip. If you left the inner link position the same, then you would get slightly higher RC's, shorter links, more camber gain, but would have to adjust shock position to maintain same spring rate.

Plus the slightly narrower CG R/L weight balance. Might look a little funny with the tires so far in the body though.

Maybe just moving the link toward the inside is the same difference?

Anyone in RSD land try this back to back? I would guess stability would be affected somewhat. It's such a pain to try without a full day of practice I want some opinions first
Widening the track width reduces lateral weight transfer, which increases lateral grip. So in theory, given that less weight is transferred, it *should* react faster since the maximum load on the tire is reached sooner. However, track width changes are much less influential on roll center characteristics as compared to the arm mounts for example, SO I'm not sure that you would even notice a change in reaction time based off just that, except in very high bite situations. The increase in lateral grip would be more noticeable I'd imagine.

In low bite, max track width aids grip and stability. In high bite, narrowing the rear end increases lateral weight transfer, which decreases lateral grip, giving you more steering. I always like the front of the car 3-4mm wider than the rear.
That's how I see it........
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