4LikesReflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)
09-23-2011, 05:24 PM
#407
09-24-2011, 04:57 AM
#410
Be aware that when you first fill the diff, if you overfill it, you'll get some seapage around the gasket on the first run or so. Make sure you clean the belt surface area and belt if that happens. If you're still flinging oil after the first run, reasses your build.
It's always good practice to keep at least one extra gasket on hand, since you're probably going to want to change oil several time while tuning. Also, SpecR diffs are hit or miss for leaking issues (over and above the leaking caused by overfilling), and doubling up a gasket will sometimes fix it.
Hint: saturate both sides of the gasket with associated green stuff prior to installation. Just put some on your finger and thumb, and dab on both sides of the gasket until it's got a thin coat that soaks in. That way if you spill some oil on it while changing fluid, it'll still work for several oil changes.
09-24-2011, 08:51 AM
#411
Thanks, Tom! To summarize, they are just spares.
I have not had leaking issues with any of my spec R diffs. I don't do anything special, except for some thick silicone grease on the out drive seals.
There are two indicator notches molded into the diff. It is very important that you line up the two notches together. There is one on the case side and one on the cover side. Make sure you inspect the diff before building it, to make sure you know what I'm talking about. For whatever reason, I think people miss out on this step, and it is probably the number 1 cause of leaking that I have seen.
I have not had leaking issues with any of my spec R diffs. I don't do anything special, except for some thick silicone grease on the out drive seals.
There are two indicator notches molded into the diff. It is very important that you line up the two notches together. There is one on the case side and one on the cover side. Make sure you inspect the diff before building it, to make sure you know what I'm talking about. For whatever reason, I think people miss out on this step, and it is probably the number 1 cause of leaking that I have seen.
09-24-2011, 09:17 AM
#412
Had the fastest car every round with dual gear diffs last night. After breaking in some Sweep 32s I went to AE60 in the rear and eraser/500k up front.
I also flipped the upper deck, and only used 2 screws at the very front and back. I had some large countersunk washers for extra clamping surface area. I had PLENTY of traction all night and didn't lose any steering. I'll post a picture later........ BUT.......
Doing some testing after the mains, my friend Jonesy rear-ended me on the backstretch (he was testing his mod car) and so far I need to replace 3 screws, my Tornado fan, and the upper deck (snapped in 2).
The car also drove MUCH smoother with Solaris 32s. Sweeps simply grabbed too much without causing a push.
I also flipped the upper deck, and only used 2 screws at the very front and back. I had some large countersunk washers for extra clamping surface area. I had PLENTY of traction all night and didn't lose any steering. I'll post a picture later........ BUT.......
Doing some testing after the mains, my friend Jonesy rear-ended me on the backstretch (he was testing his mod car) and so far I need to replace 3 screws, my Tornado fan, and the upper deck (snapped in 2).
The car also drove MUCH smoother with Solaris 32s. Sweeps simply grabbed too much without causing a push.
09-24-2011, 09:29 AM
#413
cwoods, i also have been playing with gear diff in the front too. i need some 500k oil....and eraser? you ground up an eraser or something?
how was your on power steering?
I like the way it drives but im not sure its faster yet. for more tight track i might still like a solid spool.
stiffen your car up or raise the roll centers with the sweeps, it should help....i have to do that when running more grippy tires than the solaris, otherwise the car bogs in the corners.
how was your on power steering?
I like the way it drives but im not sure its faster yet. for more tight track i might still like a solid spool.
stiffen your car up or raise the roll centers with the sweeps, it should help....i have to do that when running more grippy tires than the solaris, otherwise the car bogs in the corners.
09-24-2011, 10:03 AM
#414
cwoods, i also have been playing with gear diff in the front too. i need some 500k oil....and eraser? you ground up an eraser or something?
how was your on power steering?
I like the way it drives but im not sure its faster yet. for more tight track i might still like a solid spool.
stiffen your car up or raise the roll centers with the sweeps, it should help....i have to do that when running more grippy tires than the solaris, otherwise the car bogs in the corners.
how was your on power steering?
I like the way it drives but im not sure its faster yet. for more tight track i might still like a solid spool.
stiffen your car up or raise the roll centers with the sweeps, it should help....i have to do that when running more grippy tires than the solaris, otherwise the car bogs in the corners.
I did end up going to 15.5/14.5 springs all around with Sweeps, but I liked 14.5/12.5 with Solaris better
09-24-2011, 02:21 PM
#416
I didn't have much time to change arm blocks, so for the main I raised the roll center at the camber links instead, and it helped a little. From front to rear I'm at 0b-1b-1b-1b, so I'll go back to 14.5/12.5 and go up 1 setting on all the arm blocks for the first Hurricane race this coming weekend.
09-25-2011, 09:40 PM
#419
Honestly, have not put one together with the new gears. I am getting ready to switch to the TC6 type diff, but just have not done it as I am converted to 5x10mm bearings in the rear end of my car. Might just try running the gears instead of doing the full switch back to AE parts. I am running Sakura Zero 44mm aluminum rear universals and they are nice