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Old 09-23-2011, 06:00 PM   #406
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Put me down for some fan mountage!
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:24 PM   #407
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They are up. They should be ready any day now...

Good talking with you. Stuff showed up. Thanks! What size fans work with that mount?
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:30 PM   #408
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It is designed to work primarily with 30mm fans. 25mm fans will work too, but you will only be able to use only 1 screw. We are planning on making an adapter to mount the 25mm fans as well with 2 screws.
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:21 AM   #409
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CT, what are the additional gaskets and gears for the gear diff for? are they needed?
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Old 09-24-2011, 05:57 AM   #410
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CT, what are the additional gaskets and gears for the gear diff for? are they needed?
The white gears are hit or miss (history of having bubbles in the molded plastic, creating weak spots that allow gear teeth to break off). I hear that the black gears are much stronger, better plastic and better molding. Regardless, if I were racing, I'd always keep a spare set of gears, just in case!

Be aware that when you first fill the diff, if you overfill it, you'll get some seapage around the gasket on the first run or so. Make sure you clean the belt surface area and belt if that happens. If you're still flinging oil after the first run, reasses your build.

It's always good practice to keep at least one extra gasket on hand, since you're probably going to want to change oil several time while tuning. Also, SpecR diffs are hit or miss for leaking issues (over and above the leaking caused by overfilling), and doubling up a gasket will sometimes fix it.

Hint: saturate both sides of the gasket with associated green stuff prior to installation. Just put some on your finger and thumb, and dab on both sides of the gasket until it's got a thin coat that soaks in. That way if you spill some oil on it while changing fluid, it'll still work for several oil changes.
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:51 AM   #411
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Thanks, Tom! To summarize, they are just spares.

I have not had leaking issues with any of my spec R diffs. I don't do anything special, except for some thick silicone grease on the out drive seals.

There are two indicator notches molded into the diff. It is very important that you line up the two notches together. There is one on the case side and one on the cover side. Make sure you inspect the diff before building it, to make sure you know what I'm talking about. For whatever reason, I think people miss out on this step, and it is probably the number 1 cause of leaking that I have seen.
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:17 AM   #412
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Had the fastest car every round with dual gear diffs last night. After breaking in some Sweep 32s I went to AE60 in the rear and eraser/500k up front.

I also flipped the upper deck, and only used 2 screws at the very front and back. I had some large countersunk washers for extra clamping surface area. I had PLENTY of traction all night and didn't lose any steering. I'll post a picture later........ BUT.......

Doing some testing after the mains, my friend Jonesy rear-ended me on the backstretch (he was testing his mod car) and so far I need to replace 3 screws, my Tornado fan, and the upper deck (snapped in 2).

The car also drove MUCH smoother with Solaris 32s. Sweeps simply grabbed too much without causing a push.
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:29 AM   #413
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cwoods, i also have been playing with gear diff in the front too. i need some 500k oil....and eraser? you ground up an eraser or something?

how was your on power steering?

I like the way it drives but im not sure its faster yet. for more tight track i might still like a solid spool.

stiffen your car up or raise the roll centers with the sweeps, it should help....i have to do that when running more grippy tires than the solaris, otherwise the car bogs in the corners.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:03 AM   #414
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cwoods, i also have been playing with gear diff in the front too. i need some 500k oil....and eraser? you ground up an eraser or something?

how was your on power steering?

I like the way it drives but im not sure its faster yet. for more tight track i might still like a solid spool.

stiffen your car up or raise the roll centers with the sweeps, it should help....i have to do that when running more grippy tires than the solaris, otherwise the car bogs in the corners.
A kneadable eraser, available at crafts stores. I pack the gears, add a bit of oil, then run the car for a few minutes to work it in. Youll have to add a bit more after this initial run once it gets worked in so it is completely filled. The oil and rubber makes a nice "gummy" feeling.

I did end up going to 15.5/14.5 springs all around with Sweeps, but I liked 14.5/12.5 with Solaris better
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:59 PM   #415
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thanks guys for the info!!!
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:21 PM   #416
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I didn't have much time to change arm blocks, so for the main I raised the roll center at the camber links instead, and it helped a little. From front to rear I'm at 0b-1b-1b-1b, so I'll go back to 14.5/12.5 and go up 1 setting on all the arm blocks for the first Hurricane race this coming weekend.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:40 PM   #417
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Used the new SpecR TC6 diff today from RSD and doesnt leak one drop! 45W oil.

Alittle light sanding on the back of gears, per the instructions, and RSD orange oring. Butter smooth. Its a great product.
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Old 09-25-2011, 07:55 PM   #418
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Is anyone seeing any advantages in running the new carbon gears in the Spec-R diffs??
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:40 PM   #419
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Honestly, have not put one together with the new gears. I am getting ready to switch to the TC6 type diff, but just have not done it as I am converted to 5x10mm bearings in the rear end of my car. Might just try running the gears instead of doing the full switch back to AE parts. I am running Sakura Zero 44mm aluminum rear universals and they are nice
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:32 PM   #420
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Cristian --- PM..........

The new black gears feel a tad smoother to me. I only lightly sanded the backs as recommended by the package and they held up great.
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