Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)
#1966
I have some 6mm shorter tower prototypes on the way from the factory. They should be heree around Monday. There is no need for shorter shocks on the TC6 when you use a different spring perch and lower shock end. You will just have to trim the a arms slightly. The TC6 has excessive up travel, so when using a 3mm shorter shock end and a 1mm shorter spring perch we get the necessary geometry to achieve this. If we go shorter than -6mm we really have to re desing the upper bulkhead clamps, which I have also, but it is a much more expensive solution.
Minh, I got your VM. I will call in a bit.
Minh, I got your VM. I will call in a bit.
#1967
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
Picked up a barely used Evo2 conversion today, can't wait to install it
Now, do I replace the 6.1 Worlds chasis (VTA), or do I replace the Gen 1 RSD TC6 chasis (Stock Touring).
My stock touring car is dialed already, and has a lot of RSD upgrades already. The VTA car on the other hand is almost brand new with no upgrades.
Anyone running an RSD chasis in VTA (gen 1 or Evo2)?
Now, do I replace the 6.1 Worlds chasis (VTA), or do I replace the Gen 1 RSD TC6 chasis (Stock Touring).
My stock touring car is dialed already, and has a lot of RSD upgrades already. The VTA car on the other hand is almost brand new with no upgrades.
Anyone running an RSD chasis in VTA (gen 1 or Evo2)?
#1968
I have some 6mm shorter tower prototypes on the way from the factory. They should be heree around Monday. There is no need for shorter shocks on the TC6 when you use a different spring perch and lower shock end. You will just have to trim the a arms slightly. The TC6 has excessive up travel, so when using a 3mm shorter shock end and a 1mm shorter spring perch we get the necessary geometry to achieve this. If we go shorter than -6mm we really have to re desing the upper bulkhead clamps, which I have also, but it is a much more expensive solution.
For me this will be OK, because I have still so much TC6 spares, but you sure have a more clever solution! Looking forward to it!
#1969
I noticed the spring rates have changed. I got a second car and have been running blues up front and silver in the rear. What would u recommend in the new spring rates.
Joe DiGirolamo
Joe DiGirolamo
#1971
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
Christain you need to make version 2 to fit vertical ball studs! I would buy some as soon as you have them for sale.
I did a redesign shocktower for the TC6 bulkhead clamps. So you can fit the shocktower one thread lower. Unfortunately that way there is no chance it will fit the vertical ballstud clamp...
For me this will be OK, because I have still so much TC6 spares, but you sure have a more clever solution! Looking forward to it!
For me this will be OK, because I have still so much TC6 spares, but you sure have a more clever solution! Looking forward to it!
#1972
The vertical stud mounts are too expensive to justify making them now that AE has their own. Our design we feel is better than the AE Stud Mounts but it would be hard to move the necessary number of items to justify a production.
However, our new lowered towers work with the current AE Vertical stud mounts. I should have the samples tomorrow. I am excited to test them out to see if there is a benefit from using them.
However, our new lowered towers work with the current AE Vertical stud mounts. I should have the samples tomorrow. I am excited to test them out to see if there is a benefit from using them.
#1975
I have a setup question, and it has to do with the front camber. I'm running 2 degrees of front camber and after each run you can visibly see that I'm really only using the inside half of the front tires. the rear tires are looking good and running down evenly. I feel that with only using half the tire on the front that I'm losing some acceleration and pull when coming out of the corners. I also only sauce the inside half of the fronts. I don’t typically have a problem with traction rolling and would like to keep it that way as well.
would it be beneficial to maybe spring the car stiffer and lower the camber to increase the contact patch with the tire and the track.
We are running on an ozite carpet track and the traction is “Medium High” I’m running the original RSD6 Chassis with 16.5lb RSD springs in the front, 15.5 RSD springs in the rear. 5mm ride height and 3A setting for roll center. I’m running 2.5 rear toe, 1 degree front toe out.
Any suggestions or help would. Be greatly appreciated.
would it be beneficial to maybe spring the car stiffer and lower the camber to increase the contact patch with the tire and the track.
We are running on an ozite carpet track and the traction is “Medium High” I’m running the original RSD6 Chassis with 16.5lb RSD springs in the front, 15.5 RSD springs in the rear. 5mm ride height and 3A setting for roll center. I’m running 2.5 rear toe, 1 degree front toe out.
Any suggestions or help would. Be greatly appreciated.
#1977
Brian, tire wear is one of those things you can chose to optimize with camber setting or camber gain. However, it is also a great tuning aid, which sometimes will not lead to even tire wear.
The best thing you can do is test the changes and make the call for yourself to see if you like it or not. A stiffer front spring will not be a substitute for less camber, but it should give you more front bite in the middle and exit of a corner, and it will also make the car much more responsive.
I would just try running less camber at first to see what it does. If if is missing mid corner steering from the decreased camber, try saucing the tire more to see if it helps. I have a feeling that the tires look less worn on the outside because you are not saucing them, rather than because they are not making contact with the track. Typically I always try to set-up my car to use full sauce in the front.
Trigger, for the antenna mount you can either use one of the original TC6 bellcrank holes on the top deck or drill a hole somewhere on your top deck for it. With the RSD top deck, you can use one of the lower deck chassis holes and allow the antenna to go through the top deck split.
The best thing you can do is test the changes and make the call for yourself to see if you like it or not. A stiffer front spring will not be a substitute for less camber, but it should give you more front bite in the middle and exit of a corner, and it will also make the car much more responsive.
I would just try running less camber at first to see what it does. If if is missing mid corner steering from the decreased camber, try saucing the tire more to see if it helps. I have a feeling that the tires look less worn on the outside because you are not saucing them, rather than because they are not making contact with the track. Typically I always try to set-up my car to use full sauce in the front.
Trigger, for the antenna mount you can either use one of the original TC6 bellcrank holes on the top deck or drill a hole somewhere on your top deck for it. With the RSD top deck, you can use one of the lower deck chassis holes and allow the antenna to go through the top deck split.
#1978
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Here is my RSD 6.2. It is setup for VTA but I will be running it in 17.5 TC. I did a lot of testing with it over the weekend and all I can say is WOW!!! This is one nice kit. In 17.5 it was carrying some great corner speed. In VTA it had a small push but you can see from the picture I had too much rear toe. I didn’t change that from the 17.5. You have got to get one of these chasses they are the real deal!!! Thanks Cristian for the GREAT car!!!