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Old 01-22-2013, 11:09 PM   #1921
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Never thought about it that way, but it makes sense. I guess then, orient them in the direction that when rolling in the forward direction, the clip slides rather than catches.
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:15 AM   #1922
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CT I think that what happen...can we order new clips?....need some asap, before Birds
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:18 AM   #1923
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I will send you some for the race. We are not completely ready to release the replacement ones.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:24 AM   #1924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I will send you some for the race. We are not completely ready to release the replacement ones.
sweet..and also the stickers got some real good attention
Attached Thumbnails
Reflex Suspension Dynamics (RSD) TC6 Upgrades (vertical ball studs, pistons,etc)-dscf8514.jpg  
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:21 PM   #1925
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Alright guys,question time, I recently scored a second hand RSD chassis for my TC6, its the original one with the dual bellcranks, any way I installed the chassis and kept everything the same as my previous chassis, shocks, diffs, springs, motor settings, everything the same, the car was dialled as it was but with the RSD chassis it was drift central, at mid corner the car would break free, and I mean free, it was like it was on ice. I could get into allsorts of setup jargon and blah blah but there must be some basic noticable changes that need to be changed when going to the RSD chassis from the stock 6 chassis, any one like to chime in.
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:44 PM   #1926
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Well, let's start with the first couple of questions:

1.What surface are you running?
2.Do you have a set-up sheet?
3.Is it a 2.5 or a 2.0mm chassis?
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Old 01-25-2013, 01:54 PM   #1927
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Anyone else ever break an RSD top deck? Someone stepped out on the straight away, I nailed their foot, and it broke the top deck (only). Any chance this is covered under warranty? ha ha

Luckily, I still had the stock one, but I am debating if I should by another one. The first only only had 3 races on it
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:03 PM   #1928
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Well, due to the nature of the design, being more flexible, the top deck is going to be weaker than the stock unit. This is the first one that I have heard of breaking, but hitting someone while going at speed and I assume coming to close to if not a complete stop, will break some parts, especially since the AE front bumper is attached to the bulkheads. All the impact is passed on to the most flexible item closest to the center of the chassis, which in this case is the top deck. If it was damaged from the package it would be warrantied, unfortunately since it was due to impact, it is not covered. Sorry about your bad luck, but if you want another one write me at the store and I'll set you up with a good deal on one.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:12 PM   #1929
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Yep, came to a complete stop. Unfortunately, it was on a practice lap right before the heat, so the car did horrible in that heat (didn't know of the damage). I will definitely keep that in mind Christian! I have a huge order to place with you in a few weeks, and it would be great if you could give me a deal

I had never seen it happen either, so I took a picture before swapping it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:24 PM   #1930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Well, let's start with the first couple of questions:

1.What surface are you running?
2.Do you have a set-up sheet?
3.Is it a 2.5 or a 2.0mm chassis?
Ok i'm running on ashphalt, no I don't have a setup sheet but I can note some things at the bottom of the post, I was trying to keep away from the setup sheet question as all drivers prefer certain feels in the car and was really looking for the standard things to change due to the different chassis, and I'm pretty sure its a 2.5mm chassis.

So here is my setup

droop 5.5 front 5 rear
rh 5.5 front 6mm rear
shocks 35wt ae all round, gold springs front standard pistons stood right up, blue springs rear leaned in to second closest hole to bulkhead
3A rollcenter blocks all round
1 deg cam fr 1.5 rear
1 deg toe fr 2.5 rear
4deg castor
rear camber link mid hole closest to bulkhead (not vert) 2mm shim on hub
font camber link same pos as rear but no shim

I could go on but its rather irrelevant, anyway heres what I'm looking at trying

more front droop (to lessen the onpower steering)
try 2a mounts in rear to add more roll to rear

Pretty much the front is real responsive and changes dirrection really quickly, the rear would just step out, and this is purely from changing the chassis, could there be too much ackerman? and would this be due to the extra flex?

I am pretty much wanting to know what people had to change when they changed chassis as this should show a trend regardless of individual setup, having someone say "use this setting" or "change this" doesn't work as you must remember that a setup is a whole car not just one part, so looking for answers like
more droop
more camber
higher/lower RC

not specific values or anything, just direction.

Cheers, sorry about the rant hahahaha
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:42 PM   #1931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcrcracer View Post
Yep, came to a complete stop. Unfortunately, it was on a practice lap right before the heat, so the car did horrible in that heat (didn't know of the damage). I will definitely keep that in mind Christian! I have a huge order to place with you in a few weeks, and it would be great if you could give me a deal

I had never seen it happen either, so I took a picture before swapping it.
Ouch. FWIW, due to the nature of the AE layshaft bulkhead, I have found that you can't run without the 2 "button head screws" on the top deck that go to the layshaft bulkhead without having problems, so I always run them.

I run all 4 front top deck screws, the layshaft top deck screws and the rear most top deck screws. I am not running the ones in between the rear bulkhead and the layshaft bulkhead.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:53 PM   #1932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B.C.Ninja View Post
Ok i'm running on ashphalt, no I don't have a setup sheet but I can note some things at the bottom of the post, I was trying to keep away from the setup sheet question as all drivers prefer certain feels in the car and was really looking for the standard things to change due to the different chassis, and I'm pretty sure its a 2.5mm chassis.

So here is my setup

droop 5.5 front 5 rear
rh 5.5 front 6mm rear
shocks 35wt ae all round, gold springs front standard pistons stood right up, blue springs rear leaned in to second closest hole to bulkhead
3A rollcenter blocks all round
1 deg cam fr 1.5 rear
1 deg toe fr 2.5 rear
4deg castor
rear camber link mid hole closest to bulkhead (not vert) 2mm shim on hub
font camber link same pos as rear but no shim

I could go on but its rather irrelevant, anyway heres what I'm looking at trying

more front droop (to lessen the onpower steering)
try 2a mounts in rear to add more roll to rear

Pretty much the front is real responsive and changes dirrection really quickly, the rear would just step out, and this is purely from changing the chassis, could there be too much ackerman? and would this be due to the extra flex?

I am pretty much wanting to know what people had to change when they changed chassis as this should show a trend regardless of individual setup, having someone say "use this setting" or "change this" doesn't work as you must remember that a setup is a whole car not just one part, so looking for answers like
more droop
more camber
higher/lower RC

not specific values or anything, just direction.

Cheers, sorry about the rant hahahaha
I understand. Sounds like you like to do your own thing. However there is no magical adjustment that you make from 1 chassis to the next to make it be great from the get go. The weight distribution and chassis dynamics are completely different on the RSD6 so changes definitely have to be made.

If I were you, I would start fresh. Try one of the set-ups for asphalt from the website and work from there, however I will try to patch up what you have.

First, your springs are too stiff. I would start with AE Silver F/R

Lay in your shocks in the front to hole 2 (like what you have in the rear)

Are your shock caps drilled? If not, then drill them with a 1.0mm hole. Also, which bladders are you running?

Set your droop at 5F 4R

Change your roll center blocks to 0B all around. They seem to me like they make more traction than the 3A. 3A tends to make the car over-roll and lose traction.

On your hubs, use silver ball studs on the front +1mm, rear increase to 3mm.

Increase you rear camber to 2-2.5mm

All the above changes should make the car better. You can chose to do only one or do all, however the most important ones are Camber, roll center blocks, droop and springs.

Could be too many ackerman shims, however when this is the case, it tends to make the car really nervous going into the corner.
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:37 PM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
They're kind of simple, did not think there was a need for them, however I will shoot some pictures later on in the week and write a little tutorial.

A little run down:

1. Insert your barrels inside the Bone And the Axle.
2. Use the short pin and insert it in the narrow coupling side and the bone side.
3. Use the long pin and insert it in the wide side of the coupling.
4. Take the smaller diameter clip and insert the bent side into one of the holes that is not being used on the coupling. Pull the clip over so that it clips into the channel machined into the barrel.
5. Repeat step 5 in with the larger diameter clip.

When finished, the clips should hold the drive pins securely in place. Make sure the wire from the clip is seated in the channel.
Any update when the pictures will be up?

Thxs,
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:45 PM   #1934
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Cheers for the input Christian, it was more of a case of having spent the time getting dialled to start with then having to change everything and back to the drawing board, so its going to be the case of pretty much going to a stock type setting and work from there. I knew you'd think my springs were too stiff but for some reason it worked on the track we normally run on.
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Old 01-25-2013, 11:55 PM   #1935
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The pictures for the DCJs will be later on this weekend. What are you having trouble with? Is there any specific question that I may answer. If you follow the old tutorial and insert the rings inserted as here, you should be able to figure it out.




BC, I tend to run stiffer springs in certain conditions as well. I just think what you have is just a bit too stiff. The gold in the front can cause snap over-steer.
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