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Old 07-19-2011, 01:22 PM   #166
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Beware of the Integy stuff! I don't think they use very high grade alloys. I have not tried them, but I know their history pretty well.

Yes, we have considered making 4 and 6 degree caster blocks in aluminum, but the consensus is always that they bend and people tend to not like running them. We'll look into it further and try to see if the volumes needed to manufacture make it feasible.

The good part about our DC Universal joint design is that it almost fits in the C Hub hole. The hole size increase is about 0.5-0.7mm on each side. This can be easily done with a hobby knife. Of Course we are yet to even test them, so this is very tentative. We want them to be strong and durable!

I agree that a direct fit is ideal, but this is unfortunately, not possible as Verndog stated. The modification to the C Hub is so easy though that anyone could make it without much trouble.




Again, thanks for your feedback and your interest!



Perhaps you could look into an effective bumper system that includes some kydex so as to protect the modified c hubs or just the front end in general. I run the Hot Bodies DCJ's with modified c hubs and have managed to modifiy the AE bumper so that I can mount a small piece of kydex and a piece of hard foam (Parma) and find it crucial to protecting the front end.
Just my $0.02
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:30 PM   #167
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Well obliviously you do not read many of the post here, they are some seriously basic questions asked on every post regarding, cars, setup, electronics and all!
Well obviously Christian is asking about our opinions here. And why should he risk a lot of money producing a part that with a great chance no one buys, because not many beginners are reading here?

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Not all modellers are avid builders (otherwise they would not sell RTR cars) and regardless of the chassis, you will find people who thinks that this special parts will make them better drivers and improve their time on the local parking lot!!
The TC6 is a professional car that asks for some experience. For guys who want to be better drivers by buying a aluminum parts there are Integy and/or Diggity offers.

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The C hubs on Asso are already fragile enough for a beginner so if on top of this they need to remove some of the material...
Maybe you are making jokes, but here are my experiences with widening the C-hub hole: I have the CVSevo from Litemodz. The axles are much to big for the c-hub. I had to take away about two millimeters! Two weeks ago I had a hard crash which destroyed the right side c-hub. And where do you think it broke? Of course it broke where it always breaks: At the lower hole for the screw and the bushing. So removing 0.Xmm is not weakening the hub at a place where it has its weak point.

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But it is my opinion, and we all have one
Indeed.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:13 PM   #168
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...Two weeks ago I had a hard crash which destroyed the right side c-hub. And where do you think it broke? Of course it broke where it always breaks: At the lower hole for the screw and the bushing. So removing 0.Xmm is not weakening the hub at a place where it has its weak point.
Indeed.
I agree. I did some severe crash testing for another part that we intentionally put over 50 hits on the TC6, most were angled glancing blows to the front end. Pulled a wheel thru the hex, broke several blades, pulled apart the servo saver and ZERO broken C hubs! These were modified AE C-Hubs running with DCJ's also, along with stock bumper. Also, I have yet to break one racing in around 40 runs. IMO a better / wider bumper as pointed out would be a better mod for a wider range of parts.
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:58 PM   #169
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The quarrel here is can we as a manufacturer, justify producing at least the MOQ and not lose money while doing this? Sure it is nice to say, let's build it, but another story is selling them.

I say all this because you have to consider our target market. HIGH END racers. High end racers own dremels and like to tinker and fabricate. We are just trying to keep the fabrication down to a minimum in order to increase performance while maintaining precision and that "factory finish" at the same time.

Who knows, maybe if we find that aluminum knuckles are in high enough demand, we'll make a production run of them. In the meantime though, we have no plans for them.
Hi Cristian
At the end of the day, you are making parts to sell, if only a few top racers are buying your products, you might get no profit on your investment, and by the time you sell enough, the new TC7 will be out and parts obsolete maybe.

I like to buy new upgrade parts that are worth and will improve my lap time, but this will also be bought by Joe Soap who hasn't got a clue why he is buying this product in the first place.

And hearing that a TC6 is a professional car is a joke, I own one, I love it, but an XRay, an Avid, a top end Tamiya are all the same, newbies will buy them and use them (and I don't say race them for a reason) and they will break parts, and they will invest in fast modified motors because they want to go as fast as possible in the straight and they don't care about the bends, they want to impress their pals on the parking lot, show them how fast they are...

Again it is my opinion, and you ask us to give it to you, to me, to produce a part, any part, being straight swap or upgrade one, as a business it has to be viable, otherwise you make parts for your friends because you can, and this is a hobby too.

Hope you don't take my statement badly, and hope I am clear in what I am trying to say.

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Old 07-19-2011, 04:41 PM   #170
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And indeed I appreciate your opinion. But the fact is that we would not release a product if profit was not possible, and the reality is that there is a risk involved in every business venture. The risk here is to sell enough DC Joints that we can at least break even with the production cost. They are not aimed at only "top drivers", but they are aimed at advanced (HIGH END consumers is perhaps a better description) hobbyists, just like all our other parts.

So far, our target market has served us very well, and the venture into this new scale for Reflex Racing has been very successful in a brief period of time. In the meantime we will continue listening to our customers' products requests and ideas and try to serve them if they are feasible to produce them.

If modifying a caster block with a Hobby knife slightly bothers you, then chances are you are not running any sort of true CV Shafts, therefore you have probably not seen the benefits from them. I urge you to give them a shot (if you can find some that are available), they work wonders with front spools.

With that, we are in the process of getting the DC Universal Joints prototyped. It will be a little over a month before we can get the samples. but we will thoroughly test them before we release them.

I would not count on the TC7 on coming too soon. This chassis has been out for less than a year and even though updates/upgrades from AE will surely arrive, I doubt it will be with much urgency. For AE, On-road is a niche market that is not as profitable as their off-road division, which is where they spend most of their resources.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:28 PM   #171
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I had a chance to calculate the price points for the Universals and the Spool. Tell me what you think of the prices and if you think they are worth your money. Are they a fair price? Would you buy them?

The Spool has removable/replaceable 7075 hardened aluminum spool cups. They are for use with blades and are bolted on from the sides. This spool can also be made to be used on the Yokomo BD5 and the Top Photon, if we just change the spool cups, so that can be an added value for it. Or the Photon guys can make the conversion and run our DCJ's in their cars with this spool.

$25.99 Retail

The Universals are Double Cardan Units, nothing special, just a solid, good double cardan joints to use. Made out of hardened steel like the standard AE Units,

$31.99/pr Retail
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Old 07-20-2011, 12:43 AM   #172
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Put me on the pre-order list for 2 pair CT
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Old 07-20-2011, 01:56 AM   #173
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This sounds reasonable (specially with the Dollars down on Euros)

I take all your comments above on board, I am also a business man and profits are the important parts here, as for my racing, I started in the 80s with 1/12th, raced off roads electrics in the 90s, on road electrics in 00s and IC 1/10th which I stopped 2 years ago to come back to my first love 1/10th onroad electrics, had TC3, TC5 and TC6 with RC10, B2 and B3, raced Asso for the best parts of 15 years or more, with Schumacher, Losi and Kyosho here and there.

I am not a customer yet but awaits eagerly to become one!!

Best wishes
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Old 07-20-2011, 07:16 AM   #174
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Those are pretty good price point on the UDC and spool. I would buy them.

Also +1 on making a stiffer/wider bumper for the car. Rear bumper too for the body tucks.
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:24 AM   #175
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
I had a chance to calculate the price points for the Universals and the Spool. Tell me what you think of the prices and if you think they are worth your money. Are they a fair price? Would you buy them?

The Spool has removable/replaceable 7075 hardened aluminum spool cups. They are for use with blades and are bolted on from the sides. This spool can also be made to be used on the Yokomo BD5 and the Top Photon, if we just change the spool cups, so that can be an added value for it. Or the Photon guys can make the conversion and run our DCJ's in their cars with this spool.

$25.99 Retail

The Universals are Double Cardan Units, nothing special, just a solid, good double cardan joints to use. Made out of hardened steel like the standard AE Units,

$31.99/pr Retail





Will the DCU's be rebuildable ?
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Old 07-20-2011, 08:46 AM   #176
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The Universals are Double Cardan Units, nothing special, just a solid, good double cardan joints to use. Made out of hardened steel like the standard AE Units,
$31.99/pr Retail
Cristian, to clarify that is 31.99 per pair (2 DCJ's). If so that is cheaper then any other I know of including the Spec-R that have poor hardware quality...that question answered itself.

One word of advise when blueprinting these, keep a tight tolerance on the C/L location and hole size for the drive pins and put the best quality pins and screws (if you use the jam method), and charge a bit more. That extra play that some drill the bones oversize with is what causes them to fail before they should. Clearance hole should be +.0005 - .001" over dowel pin but C/L needs to be within .001 to make that work.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:09 AM   #177
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Vern, what do you mean by C/L? Not following the acronym, sorry.

These are tentative prices, but definitely attainable as I have received the quote from the factory already. I am just awaiting on some confirmation on some prototyping issues.

I have requested the highest quality and strength material for the drive pins, but do you have any suggestions? I know the key is in these. Them having to be so small in diameter, it really affects their strength.

The DCJ will be rebuildable for sure. The key again here, and my concern is the durabilty. If we can make them at least as good as the Hot Bodies ones, we will be more than happy, especially since we will release replacement parts for them.
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:15 AM   #178
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Put me on the pre-order list for 2 pair CT
Ummm.....hello!??
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Old 07-20-2011, 10:30 AM   #179
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JayBee, got you down I promise! Just want to get some prototypes made first to see if they work :P
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Old 07-20-2011, 11:01 AM   #180
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Vern, what do you mean by C/L? Not following the acronym, sorry.

These are tentative prices, but definitely attainable as I have received the quote from the factory already. I am just awaiting on some confirmation on some prototyping issues.

I have requested the highest quality and strength material for the drive pins, but do you have any suggestions? I know the key is in these. Them having to be so small in diameter, it really affects their strength.

The DCJ will be rebuildable for sure. The key again here, and my concern is the durabilty. If we can make them at least as good as the Hot Bodies ones, we will be more than happy, especially since we will release replacement parts for them.



one suggestion might be to make the axle 5 mm in diameter. I know that this is intended for the TC6 but the 10x6x3 bearings are imo weak and prone to failure. If you were to include four 10x5x3's with a pair of your DCU's it would be a 'win, win' situation for you and your customer. We would get a stronger bearing and you could cover other cars with the same unit.
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