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Old 07-18-2011, 12:13 PM   #151
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What length ballstuds are those? i dremeled mine but would rather not.thanks!
These are cutted Lunsford ones. They had 5mm length before.


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Guys, how much would you guys like us to make a lightweight spool and DC Universal Joints that bolt on straight on the car?

Would you be interested in either (or both)?

I am in the process of getting some prototypes made to evaluate them, but if the interest is high, we can pull the trigger on getting them made.
Will this spool be able to slip under hard conditions (like a crash)? Because I love the slipper spool because it reduces the wear of the drivetrain if you hit something (also saves blades and money by not destroying the outdrives).

DC Universal Joints: What means DC? Are these CVS then? Would really love to see some CVS from a reliable company.
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:29 PM   #152
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Guys, how much would you guys like us to make a lightweight spool and DC Universal Joints that bolt on straight on the car?

Would you be interested in either (or both)?

I am in the process of getting some prototypes made to evaluate them, but if the interest is high, we can pull the trigger on getting them made.
def the DC universal joints
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:33 PM   #153
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A Spool has no slip. If you are looking for that, it is best to keep the slipper spool that comes stock.

A true spool would be best for classes like 17.5 and 13.5 non- boosted. The lighter weight should allow for better acceleration and better drag brake (which helps a TON in modified) in the car as the flywheel effect would be reduced quite a bit from the lower weight. The car should have increased off power steering from the lessened flywheel effect and increased on power from the faster acceleration. The out drive cups would be replaceable and made from 7075 hardened aluminum to allow for toughness, durability, while maintaining lighter weight.

As for the breakage, that is what is unfortunate about true spools and what is great about the slipper spool, one reduces it, the other one increases it

The DC (double cardan) Universal joints work as constant velocity shafts. The only issue is that, much like the LiteModz, you will have to recess the caster block opening about 0.5mm on each side (which is very minimal).
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:02 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Guys, how much would you guys like us to make a lightweight spool and DC Universal Joints that bolt on straight on the car?

Would you be interested in either (or both)?

I am in the process of getting some prototypes made to evaluate them, but if the interest is high, we can pull the trigger on getting them made.

I would love the DCJ's. Can't even get Hot Bodies in a decent time.

Fully rebuildable with high quality wear materials, will fit stock bearings.

Make some caster blocks while your at it!
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:39 AM   #155
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Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
The DC (double cardan) Universal joints work as constant velocity shafts. The only issue is that, much like the LiteModz, you will have to recess the caster block opening about 0.5mm on each side (which is very minimal).
My opinion is that if you want to sell to the masses, it has to be a direct fit, no fidling, sanding etc...
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:28 AM   #156
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My opinion is that if you want to sell to the masses, it has to be a direct fit, no fidling, sanding etc...
Thats not going to happen in the case of double jointed driveshafts. There is not enough opening width in the TC6 C hubs to support any design (at least one strong enough to rely on). The stock C hubs are cheap and in 5 minutes each with a dremel the DCJ's will fit. In a perfect world I'd agree, but in this case it's not so perfect.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:50 AM   #157
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Not everyone has a dremel, so you are already limiting your customers.

How many TC6 owners would be interested to buy a part that they cannot fit on their cars without hacking something? in this case make the caster blocks to fit too.

A nice 4 block in light alloy, my dream...
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:37 AM   #158
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A nice 4 block in light alloy, my dream...
Your dream became true already: http://hobbyhobby.com/store/product/...-TC5-%282%29-/
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:11 AM   #159
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If it's that big of a deal to open the C hubs, then offer it with a set of 4 or 6 degree hubs already dremeled/machined as an add on option.

That way those of us with dremels don't have to pay for items we don't need and those without can order a turn key package.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:33 AM   #160
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Beware of the Integy stuff! I don't think they use very high grade alloys. I have not tried them, but I know their history pretty well.

Yes, we have considered making 4 and 6 degree caster blocks in aluminum, but the consensus is always that they bend and people tend to not like running them. We'll look into it further and try to see if the volumes needed to manufacture make it feasible.

The good part about our DC Universal joint design is that it almost fits in the C Hub hole. The hole size increase is about 0.5-0.7mm on each side. This can be easily done with a hobby knife. Of Course we are yet to even test them, so this is very tentative. We want them to be strong and durable!

I agree that a direct fit is ideal, but this is unfortunately, not possible as Verndog stated. The modification to the C Hub is so easy though that anyone could make it without much trouble.

Again, thanks for your feedback and your interest!
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:44 AM   #161
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Those are crap. I have a set and the amount of movement on the outer hinge pin due to the Integy blocks being made to such a poor tolerance is ridiculous. They're in a drawer unused.

I've got 1 good set of Integy TC5/TC6 knuckles and in the other set I bought one of the knuckles didn't have any of the holes tapped and after tapping them I discovered that the machining of the bearing holder was so poor that the axle moved in and out over 1mm.

Integy parts seem to be really hit or miss. I've missed twice with them so won't be buying again. Diggity has some 6 degree blocks but no 4 degree.

I agree that a properly made Aluminum 4 degree caster block that fits a DCJ without mods would be nice though. It'd be nice to get some DCJ's that don't require too much to get to fit and are reliable as well.
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Old 07-19-2011, 11:52 AM   #162
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Those are crap. I have a set and the amount of movement on the outer hinge pin due to the Integy blocks being made to such a poor tolerance is ridiculous. They're in a drawer unused.

I've got 1 good set of Integy TC5/TC6 knuckles and in the other set I bought one of the knuckles didn't have any of the holes tapped and after tapping them I discovered that the machining of the bearing holder was so poor that the axle moved in and out over 1mm.

Integy parts seem to be really hit or miss. I've missed twice with them so won't be buying again. Diggity has some 6 degree blocks but no 4 degree.

I agree that a properly made Aluminum 4 degree caster block that fits a DCJ without mods would be nice though. It'd be nice to get some DCJ's that don't require too much to get to fit and are reliable as well.
+10 on Integy low quality material, in general they wont last and are very weak!

The Diggity C hubs worked well with TC5, but are unchanged for TC6 and they too will not fit with DCJ's. You dont want to dremel the aluminum ones or you will be asking for trouble.

IMO it would be best to design new C-Hubs from CNC machined high strength composite which nobody would buy since the AE ones work good enough and are simple to mod....catch 22.
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Last edited by Verndog; 07-19-2011 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:29 PM   #163
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My opinion on this is that I don't think a special c-hub is neccessary at all! Removing that little material is an equal effort to build the car the right way. Like for example: nobody loses a word about the ball studs now. These were tight and AE just explained how to make them perfect with a plier.

So if RR just adds one A6 sheet of paper to the package that explaines how to build the DC including how to open the c-hub with a tool everyone in this hobby has at home (like the hobby knife) everything should be fine.

As if someone with no knowledge would buy such an expensive option part to reduce shatter. At first he has to know what it is. If he knows that he must be able to remove some material wit a cutter, or not?

By the way: In Germany we call the hobby Modellbau (for model building) and not Modellkauf (for model buying). Which should implement that this hobby is not just about driving your model and never do anything for maintenance or to optimize it.

My two cent...
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:49 PM   #164
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Well obliviously you do not read many of the post here, they are some seriously basic questions asked on every post regarding, cars, setup, electronics and all!

Not all modellers are avid builders (otherwise they would not sell RTR cars) and regardless of the chassis, you will find people who thinks that this special parts will make them better drivers and improve their time on the local parking lot!!

The C hubs on Asso are already fragile enough for a beginner so if on top of this they need to remove some of the material...

But it is my opinion, and we all have one
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:19 PM   #165
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Olly you do have to consider that these are upgrade/performance parts, not stock parts. i.e. The ARE NOT for everyone.

For example, myself, I have never broken a C Hub. But, I do consider myself a lot better than above average driver. I have, however seen many people break them.

The quarrel here is can we as a manufacturer, justify producing at least the MOQ and not lose money while doing this? Sure it is nice to say, let's build it, but another story is selling them.

The DC Universal Shaft is another story. People modify their cars to put these on. Whether HPI, Litemodz or XRAY, they all take some work. The litemodz take the least amount, but they are not really readily available. So there is a demand out there for them. Hence, why we think it would be a good product to produce and sell.

Structurally speaking, enlarging the opening of the C Hub 0.5-0.7mm on each side will not make them exponentially weaker. If they break when you hit something, chances are they would have broken without the slightly increased opening.

DC Universals are also not for everyone. They are mostly for those few that like to get that little extra out of their cars because they are good enough drivers to see a benefit from them, or for those that like to tinker. If you are worried about breaking your car instead of going faster, then these are not for you. DC Universal shafts are also, structurally speaking weaker, since everything has to be made in a reduced size (another thing to consider).

I say all this because you have to consider our target market. HIGH END racers. High end racers own dremels and like to tinker and fabricate. We are just trying to keep the fabrication down to a minimum in order to increase performance while maintaining precision and that "factory finish" at the same time.

Who knows, maybe if we find that aluminum knuckles are in high enough demand, we'll make a production run of them. In the meantime though, we have no plans for them.
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Last edited by CristianTabush; 07-19-2011 at 01:31 PM.
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