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Old 10-02-2012, 10:22 AM   #1531
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If they did offer one, then I'd have the rsd conversion kit on route right now
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:00 AM   #1532
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Yes, we already have it prototyping right now. We are trying out 2 types. A solid aluminum one and one with a CF Bridge. The issue is cost, my guess is the solid aluminum will be better, but perhaps more expensive.

Maybe a month out?
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:02 AM   #1533
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Oh, also it is our pleasure to announce that BRCA Champ Olly Jeffries is officially on board with RSD. He will be using RSD accessories on his AE TC6.1! Welcome aboard Olly.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:25 AM   #1534
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Congratulations, I am officially jealous!
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:30 AM   #1535
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Good news for RSD

I'm going to rebuild the car this weekend. Going to try out a few new things and then it's ready for indoor season. Mainly going to drive in Germany though. It's easier to drive to and more choice :-)
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:10 AM   #1536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CristianTabush View Post
Yes, we already have it prototyping right now. We are trying out 2 types. A solid aluminum one and one with a CF Bridge. The issue is cost, my guess is the solid aluminum will be better, but perhaps more expensive.

Maybe a month out?
Hope the chassis u have now already have the servo mount holes drilled out in chassis? Seems the BD7 have got the design right.
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:28 AM   #1537
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Quote:
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Oh, also it is our pleasure to announce that BRCA Champ Olly Jeffries is officially on board with RSD. He will be using RSD accessories on his AE TC6.1! Welcome aboard Olly.
That is sweet. I look forward to seeing how his feedback will effect future product development.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:45 AM   #1538
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Yes, the holes are already there!!!
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:08 AM   #1539
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You can also try the TEAM GRID servo mount.

I'm going to rebuild my RSD as I mentioned earlier. Is there need for a step-by-step guide? Maybe for the RSD website or some kind of guide? Let me know.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:19 AM   #1540
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Hi guys, the RSD6/XYAY and TC6 Battery hold downs are back in stock!
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:24 AM   #1541
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Can your full bellcrank system be retrofitted to a stock TC6.1FT or WC chassis?
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:52 AM   #1542
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Not quite. The width of the bell crank makes it hard to avoid the battery hold down holes. I am sure it can be fiddled with, but it would not be too easy as you have to re-position the battery. Since the car has no tape slots, this becomes a bit tricky. When we designed our chassis, we moved around several things to enable us to install the bell crank. One of the things was moving the battery back 3mm for better balance and steering.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:56 PM   #1543
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Default TC Tech - Shock Rebuild

I would like to see a TC Tech article on how to rebuild your shocks correctly with the RSD parts (especially the bladders).

I have the pistons, bladders and springs but every time I use the bladders I end up with leaky shocks and have had to go back to the stock ones.

I have also tried a second set of bladders just to be sure but they still leak - I must be doing something wrong (I am trying to get zero rebound).

I think what is happening is that every time I tighten down the cap down the bladder becomes twisted (sometimes I can actually feel it happen) and then air gets in and it leaks.

Cheers,
Gary
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:30 PM   #1544
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Ok. Will do.

I don't do anything special though. Check your shock caps to make sure they are to spec. I have seen tons of faulty ones.
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:24 PM   #1545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazmanster View Post
I have also tried a second set of bladders just to be sure but they still leak - I must be doing something wrong (I am trying to get zero rebound).
Have you drilled your shock caps? Every time I've ever built a shock (Tamiya, Schui, AE) with an un-drilled cap to get near zero rebound or suck back, by pushing the piston in before screwing on the cap, has resulted in air getting sucked into the shock and bubbles in just a few runs. Drilling the cap lets you screw it on with the piston out and get near zero rebound, and shocks that stay air-free much, much longer.

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I think what is happening is that every time I tighten down the cap down the bladder becomes twisted (sometimes I can actually feel it happen) and then air gets in and it leaks.
When you put the cap on, do you put the plastic part on first, and then apply downward pressure on it while you twist the metal part on? That should help keep the bladder from getting disturbed.

-Mike
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