1LikesBarracuda from Alex racing
03-21-2003, 05:10 AM
#1396
Originally posted by Macky
I checked both the R2 and R1 last night. Looks like the battery slots are in the same possition but moved closer to the center by about 3-4mm. I'm not sure about everyone else's kit but mine didn't come with a strap for the battery hold down. It did come with the part that mounts to the chassis though but if you install that it will overlap the chassis. Like Dave said you can mount some post in the two of the holes in the chassis and mount the strap to that. I'll take pictures of mine and post on here this weekend.
I checked both the R2 and R1 last night. Looks like the battery slots are in the same possition but moved closer to the center by about 3-4mm. I'm not sure about everyone else's kit but mine didn't come with a strap for the battery hold down. It did come with the part that mounts to the chassis though but if you install that it will overlap the chassis. Like Dave said you can mount some post in the two of the holes in the chassis and mount the strap to that. I'll take pictures of mine and post on here this weekend.
03-21-2003, 05:17 AM
#1397
Yep, no battery strap but the end peices with the posts for the strap to screw down onto. I have a couple posts I can use for a battery strap, from my RC Lab, but they have bits that go through the battery strap and then use a body clip to secure them like on a body post, I'm not sure how safe this would be with such a long battery strap though, with the old parts meant for the wider chassis you get some side support to stop the cells slipping out the side in a crash. I'll use tape for now but what I'd like to see and think would be easiest to use safely, is a velcro strap like the system PenguinRC makes for the Pro 2. They have thin carbon fibre plates to clamp the velcro down at the ends and then instead of the normal pro 2 system where you just pull the straps towards each other and stick together, which is difficult to get tight, it has a plastic loop that is attached to one strap and you then pull the other strap through the loop and back on itself. This is very easy to get tight enough that your cells should never come out. A friend didn't like using velco straps on his Pro 2 until I persuaded him to try these, now he loves them for their ease of use and fact he's not had his cells fly out mid race since he got them.
http://www.penguinrc.com/products/hpi/rs4/3700.shtml
How about we get some made to our own specs?
http://www.penguinrc.com/products/hpi/rs4/3700.shtml
How about we get some made to our own specs?
03-21-2003, 11:50 AM
#1399
Lovely, carbon dust everywhere, don't you just love filing battery slot bevels 
Must say thanks to Steve for putting up with me
and very useful supplimental instructions. Good packaging too, don't think I'll manage to read the newspapers though 
Must say thanks to Steve for putting up with me
and very useful supplimental instructions. Good packaging too, don't think I'll manage to read the newspapers though
03-21-2003, 12:06 PM
#1401
Originally posted by SpeedTech
itchynads,
you can try several things:
1. sand the input gear a bit as well, make sure you do it evenly
2. remove the center shaft first so it's just the diffs in the bulkhead, and then spin them...they should spin very free. If they don't, then the bulkheads are not aligned properly. And there is a simple solution for that:
2A: first loosen all the screw underneath the bulkheads (front and rear) by 2 turns so the bulkhead is free. At this point, the diff should spin very free.
2B: then you put the center shaft in place, with the plastic center shaft holders in place on the bulkheads. Make sure the shaft holders are seated properly on the bulkhead. Now, hold the center shaft holders in place with one hand and began slowly screwing in the bottom bulkhead screws. Make sure you do each screw evenly and a little bit at a time (don't screw down one screw all the way, then the others...do a "star" pattern) Your bulkheads now should be properly aligned with the rest of the drivetrain.
I had a customer that had the same problem, and we took care of it with the method above
3. Another thing you might want to try is different shimming. And this varies slightly with each car. For my car, I have one shim on each side of the diff, while in the front I have both on one side, shimming the diff gear away from the input gear.
Try these methods above...I assure you, when you build the barracuda R2 correctly, the drive train is amazing!
Right now, my drivetrain is so free to a point where if I rotate both front wheel forward (which's got a one way, so the rotating it forward does not rotate the rear wheel) as it spins forward, the friction created in the one-way bearings is enough to bring the rest of the transmission and the rear tire to start spinning.
I will get a lot of building tips and videos of my drivetrain on the www.alexracingusa.com website in the next couple of weeks
Thanks for reading, I apologize for another long post
Steve Wang
itchynads,
you can try several things:
1. sand the input gear a bit as well, make sure you do it evenly
2. remove the center shaft first so it's just the diffs in the bulkhead, and then spin them...they should spin very free. If they don't, then the bulkheads are not aligned properly. And there is a simple solution for that:
2A: first loosen all the screw underneath the bulkheads (front and rear) by 2 turns so the bulkhead is free. At this point, the diff should spin very free.
2B: then you put the center shaft in place, with the plastic center shaft holders in place on the bulkheads. Make sure the shaft holders are seated properly on the bulkhead. Now, hold the center shaft holders in place with one hand and began slowly screwing in the bottom bulkhead screws. Make sure you do each screw evenly and a little bit at a time (don't screw down one screw all the way, then the others...do a "star" pattern) Your bulkheads now should be properly aligned with the rest of the drivetrain.
I had a customer that had the same problem, and we took care of it with the method above
3. Another thing you might want to try is different shimming. And this varies slightly with each car. For my car, I have one shim on each side of the diff, while in the front I have both on one side, shimming the diff gear away from the input gear.
Try these methods above...I assure you, when you build the barracuda R2 correctly, the drive train is amazing!
Right now, my drivetrain is so free to a point where if I rotate both front wheel forward (which's got a one way, so the rotating it forward does not rotate the rear wheel) as it spins forward, the friction created in the one-way bearings is enough to bring the rest of the transmission and the rear tire to start spinning.
I will get a lot of building tips and videos of my drivetrain on the www.alexracingusa.com website in the next couple of weeks
Thanks for reading, I apologize for another long post
Steve Wang
-Dave
Last edited by JDM_DOHC_SiR; 03-21-2003 at 12:22 PM.
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03-21-2003, 04:12 PM
#1404
OK first build problem, how on earth do you squeeze thos little bevel gears so they go through the bearings 
I'm not the strongest of guys but 
they're tougher than 12 rounds with Mike Tyson 
I'm not the strongest of guys but they're tougher than 12 rounds with Mike Tyson
03-21-2003, 04:32 PM
#1405
Originally posted by Herminator
OK first build problem, how on earth do you squeeze thos little bevel gears so they go through the bearings I'm not the strongest of guys but they're tougher than 12 rounds with Mike Tyson
OK first build problem, how on earth do you squeeze thos little bevel gears so they go through the bearings
I'm not the strongest of guys but they're tougher than 12 rounds with Mike Tyson
HI Hermi'
1st thing is to put one bearing on the the bevel gear ...and then put that into the center shaft holder...
next try to put the bearing into the support you might need a little shock oil over the 2 tabs to help things slide better try this and get back to me 
-Dave
03-21-2003, 04:47 PM
#1406
managed to get the forst bearing on the gear, so they're both in the holders now, trying to get the other bearing in is even worse, can't get in to squeeze the gear. Ahwell, I'll have hands like vices by the end of the build
03-21-2003, 07:11 PM
#1407
well I got the second bearings in, used some shock oil and the gentle persuasion of a 1.5kg dumbell weight don't have a hammer
just finished making up all the turnbuckles to exact lengths and now it's time for bed
other than the tricky bearings/gears it's been a nice build so far, should finish it in a few hours tomorrow
don't have a hammer just finished making up all the turnbuckles to exact lengths and now it's time for bed
other than the tricky bearings/gears it's been a nice build so far, should finish it in a few hours tomorrow
03-21-2003, 11:43 PM
#1408
Hi Guys,
The second batch of car kits have arrived however, this time we only got blue and purple color (and 1 pink one!) I also have our first large shipment of parts come in. We are working through them as fast as we can to get them into our system and get them online. Car kits will be ready to ship by Monday and parts should be online later on in the evening. Initially there will be no pictures of the parts, but we'll get them on there soon for you guys
We also received calls from R/C Car Action and they are requesting the car to be reviewed in up coming issue so keep an eye out for that.
Steve Wang
The second batch of car kits have arrived
however, this time we only got blue and purple color (and 1 pink one!) I also have our first large shipment of parts come in. We are working through them as fast as we can to get them into our system and get them online. Car kits will be ready to ship by Monday and parts should be online later on in the evening. Initially there will be no pictures of the parts, but we'll get them on there soon for you guys We also received calls from R/C Car Action and they are requesting the car to be reviewed in up coming issue
so keep an eye out for that.Steve Wang
03-22-2003, 05:15 AM
#1409
Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hi Guys,
The second batch of car kits have arrived however, this time we only got blue and purple color (and 1 pink one!) I also have our first large shipment of parts come in. We are working through them as fast as we can to get them into our system and get them online. Car kits will be ready to ship by Monday and parts should be online later on in the evening. Initially there will be no pictures of the parts, but we'll get them on there soon for you guys
We also received calls from R/C Car Action and they are requesting the car to be reviewed in up coming issue so keep an eye out for that.
Steve Wang
Hi Guys,
The second batch of car kits have arrived
however, this time we only got blue and purple color (and 1 pink one!) I also have our first large shipment of parts come in. We are working through them as fast as we can to get them into our system and get them online. Car kits will be ready to ship by Monday and parts should be online later on in the evening. Initially there will be no pictures of the parts, but we'll get them on there soon for you guys We also received calls from R/C Car Action and they are requesting the car to be reviewed in up coming issue
so keep an eye out for that.Steve Wang
My kit didn't come with any decal sheet, is this normal?