Barracuda from Alex racing
#1846
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Herminator
coloured carbon battery straps
Put me down for a blue one, NOW! ooh yes please, think I'll wait on getting an alloy one, would much rather have a lightweight carbon one
Is he getting a batch machined? I always thought it looked a bit odd with the alloy ones saying Alex, since it looks like your name is alex how about he makes them with CUDA written on them instead
whats the TC3 steering like anyway?
coloured carbon battery straps
Put me down for a blue one, NOW! ooh yes please, think I'll wait on getting an alloy one, would much rather have a lightweight carbon one
Is he getting a batch machined? I always thought it looked a bit odd with the alloy ones saying Alex, since it looks like your name is alex how about he makes them with CUDA written on them instead
whats the TC3 steering like anyway?
I was actually going to bring them through SpeedTech hermi' Sorry...I don't have any prices or quantitys yet ..But I'll give all the details to Steve and let him pass them on..I'll just supply the pic's for you all
-Dave
#1847
don't care who they come through, I just want one, soon
#1848
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Herminator
don't care who they come through, I just want one, soon
don't care who they come through, I just want one, soon
I'll have to post the pictures of them when I get them ..now as far as what they will say on the Battery Brace..??? I'll ask... But I don't think more than 20 Pieces total will be made of every thing. ....It's just for most of the guys that I race with ....but if there is a demand I'm sure that he can make more
-Dave
#1850
You sure you're in the right job? you'd make a very good torturer
only 20
only 20
#1851
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Herminator
You sure you're in the right job? you'd make a very good torturer
only 20
You sure you're in the right job? you'd make a very good torturer
only 20
I my self like the Tape idea for batterys....but I think I'll try the Alloy Alex one 1st and then my buddys Carbon one
-Dave
#1852
I must admit taping isn't as bad as I thought it would be, only takes a little longer to change cells. Plus the cells are stuck in place and so very likely to move from side to side, very important when they're so close to the drive shaft. Just looks a bit messy and not very handy when you're short on time and still need to change cells. Plus there's the worry that if you run the chassis too low or scrape over something it will cut the tape on the bottom and the cells will come loose. I had this happen already wlthough I was using the same bit of tape twice, only time I did it, and hadn't rounded the tape slots at the time. I'm worried about the alloy strap being slightly too slack on the cells and letting them occasionaly pop out the side in a crash, a scalloped bottom would of helped. Same worry with a carbon one, I think a nice idea for the carbon one would be a slot down the length of the strap for a second peice of carbon to slot through and the second bit being scalloped and glued in place to give the strap some rigidity, so it would look like the Mission strap. Would be light weight and look good. Does you friend have CNC drawings for what he's doing? I may be able to get one cut out by a club mate, possibly modified to my design idea no blue carbon though never heard of it before
#1853
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by Herminator
I must admit taping isn't as bad as I thought it would be, only takes a little longer to change cells. Plus the cells are stuck in place and so very likely to move from side to side, very important when they're so close to the drive shaft. Just looks a bit messy and not very handy when you're short on time and still need to change cells. Plus there's the worry that if you run the chassis too low or scrape over something it will cut the tape on the bottom and the cells will come loose. I had this happen already wlthough I was using the same bit of tape twice, only time I did it, and hadn't rounded the tape slots at the time. I'm worried about the alloy strap being slightly too slack on the cells and letting them occasionaly pop out the side in a crash, a scalloped bottom would of helped. Same worry with a carbon one, I think a nice idea for the carbon one would be a slot down the length of the strap for a second peice of carbon to slot through and the second bit being scalloped and glued in place to give the strap some rigidity, so it would look like the Mission strap. Would be light weight and look good. Does you friend have CNC drawings for what he's doing? I may be able to get one cut out by a club mate, possibly modified to my design idea no blue carbon though never heard of it before
I must admit taping isn't as bad as I thought it would be, only takes a little longer to change cells. Plus the cells are stuck in place and so very likely to move from side to side, very important when they're so close to the drive shaft. Just looks a bit messy and not very handy when you're short on time and still need to change cells. Plus there's the worry that if you run the chassis too low or scrape over something it will cut the tape on the bottom and the cells will come loose. I had this happen already wlthough I was using the same bit of tape twice, only time I did it, and hadn't rounded the tape slots at the time. I'm worried about the alloy strap being slightly too slack on the cells and letting them occasionaly pop out the side in a crash, a scalloped bottom would of helped. Same worry with a carbon one, I think a nice idea for the carbon one would be a slot down the length of the strap for a second peice of carbon to slot through and the second bit being scalloped and glued in place to give the strap some rigidity, so it would look like the Mission strap. Would be light weight and look good. Does you friend have CNC drawings for what he's doing? I may be able to get one cut out by a club mate, possibly modified to my design idea no blue carbon though never heard of it before
I useually double up the tape... so I don't have any worries about the packs coming out..
Good points about the strap design....but I'm not sure if he's willing to change them just yet
-Dave
#1855
Dave,
just let me know the details when your buddy gets it all worked out.
Steve Wang
just let me know the details when your buddy gets it all worked out.
Steve Wang
#1856
Re: Barracuda Stuff
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
OK here is the latest info that I can give you all on some of the new stuff that will be coming out in Japan ...There is more but this is it right now for the Cuda'
My Buddy just has Started a small production run of Private One Off parts for the R2...
The Things that he is testing right now are
1) TC-3 Style steering system (helps with Ackerman a little)
2) Rear Carbon Braces that you have seen in some of the Pic's before( this item gets rid of some of the Twist if you run on a High Bite Track such as Carpet or a weel preped Asphalt Track....
3) Carbon fiber battery hold down brace Like Alex Racings ALooy one but just Carbon Fiber...( But here's the catch they will be colored carbon fiber I.E. Blue, Red & Purple hues )
Thats it for now..I'll have pic's in the next day or so if he ever gets of his lazy butt and sends them..
Thanks
Great Info! Dave!
-Dave
OK here is the latest info that I can give you all on some of the new stuff that will be coming out in Japan ...There is more but this is it right now for the Cuda'
My Buddy just has Started a small production run of Private One Off parts for the R2...
The Things that he is testing right now are
1) TC-3 Style steering system (helps with Ackerman a little)
2) Rear Carbon Braces that you have seen in some of the Pic's before( this item gets rid of some of the Twist if you run on a High Bite Track such as Carpet or a weel preped Asphalt Track....
3) Carbon fiber battery hold down brace Like Alex Racings ALooy one but just Carbon Fiber...( But here's the catch they will be colored carbon fiber I.E. Blue, Red & Purple hues )
Thats it for now..I'll have pic's in the next day or so if he ever gets of his lazy butt and sends them..
Thanks
Great Info! Dave!
-Dave
#1857
Originally posted by Michal101
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
#1858
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by fai
Mike, I find myself can't get a 4/4.5mm f/r ride height if using HPI springs, have you noted this? Also, may I know what's the difference if not using the torque rods? I'm also thinking of having one... Thanks a lot!
Mike, I find myself can't get a 4/4.5mm f/r ride height if using HPI springs, have you noted this? Also, may I know what's the difference if not using the torque rods? I'm also thinking of having one... Thanks a lot!
-Dave
#1859
Tech Champion
iTrader: (31)
Originally posted by fai
Also, may I know what's the difference if not using the torque rods? I'm also thinking of having one... Thanks a lot!
Also, may I know what's the difference if not using the torque rods? I'm also thinking of having one... Thanks a lot!
By using the Torque Rods the front end will be more solid if you are using the Stock R1 Cuda A-arms...you don't really need them if you Run the PAL Short Span A-Arms
-Dave
#1860
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Originally posted by fai
Mike, I find myself can't get a 4/4.5mm f/r ride height if using HPI springs, have you noted this? Also, may I know what's the difference if not using the torque rods? I'm also thinking of having one... Thanks a lot!
Mike, I find myself can't get a 4/4.5mm f/r ride height if using HPI springs, have you noted this? Also, may I know what's the difference if not using the torque rods? I'm also thinking of having one... Thanks a lot!
I am assuming that you are using rubber tires and not foams. Anyway, I had to use the front and rear droop screws to get the ride height down to the 4.5 to 5 mm.
Dave, was correct, but I still feel that the torque rods firm things up a little especially when taking sharp turns at high speeds.
I hope this helps, Mike