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Old 04-06-2011, 03:27 PM   #76
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Right.....

Have settles on some great settings for the Brooklands Kent track (Full Circuit)

HW 13.5T
F/W 213
Tires Sorex 32R
Tamiya Evo V

4:7
9:47
10:4
12:19
13:4
14:4
15:7

FDR 5.88:1

Good Punch, lots of top end temps around 120F
Very very very quick on the straight and the infield straights, slightly soft out of the corners but stops the wheels spinning up.

have played with many options within 213 with mixed success. If anybody wants a scan of my hand written notes PM me. (Bit scruffy but easy enough to work out)
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:35 AM   #77
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Settings for Moto Arena in the UK:

SP 10.5
Max endbell timing
FDR 7.30

FW211
DRRS - 9
Boost - 44
Boost Start - 9000RPM
Boost Ramp - 200RPM/deg
Turbo - 20
Turbo Ramp - 12/0.1s
Turbo Delay - 0.2s
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:00 AM   #78
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Ok, as some of you know, my local carpet track has closed for the seaon, so I have been traveling acouple of hours north to a smaller, more technical track.
This track requires a more powerful motor setup, and less chasis setup. With the old setup the car doest pull out of the corners for a rocket of acceleration, but is really good for larger more flowing tracks. (or a med size track with a flowing line, if you can drive it that way).

This little track is hard to drive a flowing line, so acceleration in the low rpm area has become an issue.
So, what I have done is decreased the RO (faster accell), increased the endbell timing (more power and rpms), increased the start RPM for boost (so the car was still punchy in the corners, but lots of rip at higher speeds), and reduced the turbo delay to .1 (since in 211, all the boost HAS to be applied before turbo works anyways.)

Becarefull if you should decide to work with this setup, the motor does get hotter then what I would like, so you can move the timing on the endbell to 20 degrees, for a cooler running, but less power out of the corners.

Shawn
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:30 AM   #79
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Took my GenXL out for it's first spin last weekend. SP GT v2.1 EX, SP 1S 17.5. Motor was barely even warm after 8mins, so there's more to be had out of it!


rollout: 80mm (44/76, 44mm greylow rears)
firmware: 211
DDRS: 9
Boost: 40
Boost Start - 2000
Boost Ramp - 200
Turbo - 24
Turbo Ramp - 24/0.1s
Turbo Delay - 0.2s

Going to try upping rollout to ~83 with a 46T pinion, and leaving the settings the same.
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:40 AM   #80
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guys, Turbo is basically a surge of timing at the end right? For smoothness, I'd just go full 64steps of timing on boost...

Am I corrrect? :S
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Old 04-09-2011, 12:07 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapskate.brok View Post
guys, Turbo is basically a surge of timing at the end right? For smoothness, I'd just go full 64steps of timing on boost...

Am I corrrect? :S
You can do that, but you might get alot of heat in the motor. You would want to change the RPM/Unit setting to a higher value,and calculate your start and end rpm. I have been finding an End RPM around the 2/3 max RPM, to 3/4 MAX Rpm to be perfect. (If I knew what the max rpm was.)

I setup my timing so the turbo only kicks in on the straight away (but it kicks in right at the end of the boost). And I have been raising my start rpm to keep the motor cooler on the infield, and still have good torque.

The boost ramp (RPM/unit) is what controls the "smoothness" of acceleration and power delivery.

Shawn.
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Old 04-10-2011, 11:29 AM   #82
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Here is my setup for my local track in South Africa.
Here we still runs foams in some classes (13.5 in this case) so my FDR and rollout is captured on the attached screenie.
Brand new Xerun 60.A Ver2.1 first time run on a track with a brand new HW sensor cable.

Car had awesome punch out of the corners and great speed down the straight.

Temps after 5 min run.
Motor = 55-59 C
ESC = 35C
Ambient Temp = 25C

Google Earth link of the track included.



One problem.....
Intemittently during the race the car would go into safe/sensorless mode for a corner or two then recover on it's own.
This is one of the reasons why I tuned Voltage and Overheat protection off in trying to find what the problem is.

During the qualies, the car was very quick and while leading, on the last lap, the car would go into safe mode and stay that way for a corner or two and then recover on it's own.
For the mains, the car was fine during the warm up lap, at the start I pulled off and it went into safe mode right away, I then pulled over in front of a marshal and he switched the ESC off and back on again, the car then ran fine for the rest of the race.

What is causing the problem?

Thx.

Edit: I thought it may be the batteries, so I used them in my 10.5 car and it performed perfectly, I then put the 10.5 batteries into this car and it still went into safe mode.
Dnring the main,
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Old 04-10-2011, 12:59 PM   #83
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I had a simmilar problem yesterday. I run a hobbywing xerun 10.5t in my pro10 with a 120A v2.1 and all of a sudden it stutterd and stalled a little on the straight. I could drive slow but that is it. After a lap or so i could drive normal again. First i thought it could be the temperature protection but my motor was only 50-55 degrees after the race.

Today i opend the motor and found out that the 3 screws that hold the sensor board had all backed out almost completly. I already thought the sensor socket felt a little loose and now i know why. The sensor board was rattling in the motor. I hope it solved my problem.
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:36 AM   #84
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Agree it sounds like a sensor problem on the motor and or a rotor shimming problem (could be to far for the sensors) have you tried another motor
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:07 AM   #85
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Default settings speed passion motor 10.5

After lots of trial and error 7 X 6 minute runs cracked it after run 6.

so this is it car was fast and punchy.

rollout 48mm

setting = value
4 9
9 35
10 24
12 30
13 4000
14 -2
15 250

GM 13.5 1s

rollout 72mm

4 9
9 45
10 24
12 24
13 3000
14 -3
15 350

just too mention the 10.5 was in a WGT and the 13.5 was in a 1/12th
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:51 PM   #86
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UK NEWBURY RC CLUB, 30 METER STRAIGHT, TECHNICAL INFIELD.
SP 13.5 Max endbell timing ,FDR 8.6

FW119
DRRS - 5
Boost - 40
Boost Start - 5000RPM
Boost Ramp - 400RPM/deg
Turbo - 24
Turbo Ramp - Fastest
Turbo Delay - 0.3s
Motor Temp 59c
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Old 04-17-2011, 01:00 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
I had a simmilar problem yesterday. I run a hobbywing xerun 10.5t in my pro10 with a 120A v2.1 and all of a sudden it stutterd and stalled a little on the straight. I could drive slow but that is it. After a lap or so i could drive normal again. First i thought it could be the temperature protection but my motor was only 50-55 degrees after the race.

Today i opend the motor and found out that the 3 screws that hold the sensor board had all backed out almost completly. I already thought the sensor socket felt a little loose and now i know why. The sensor board was rattling in the motor. I hope it solved my problem.
I have one 60A esc running 119 that goes into slow mode about 3/4 of the race in. Changed motors, sensor leads and batteries. The only thing to stop it was a replacemet HW 60A esc also running the same 119. No problems. So what the devil is it?? It's driving me mad!!!
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:01 AM   #88
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well my problem has been solved. The motor and esc were doing very well again and temps were only 50-55 degrees C after 7-8 minutes practice. I didn't have any problems with the xerun motor and esc.
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Old 04-18-2011, 04:24 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MENTAL DENTAL View Post
I have one 60A esc running 119 that goes into slow mode about 3/4 of the race in. Changed motors, sensor leads and batteries. The only thing to stop it was a replacemet HW 60A esc also running the same 119. No problems. So what the devil is it?? It's driving me mad!!!
Mine was also related to the motor.
One of the stator windings must have just caught on the rotor somehow, and was intermittently shorting causing the ESC to go into sensorless mode..
A drop of epoxy to insulate the winding and expoxied it back into place, car is running perfectly again.
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:08 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MENTAL DENTAL View Post
I have one 60A esc running 119 that goes into slow mode about 3/4 of the race in. Changed motors, sensor leads and batteries. The only thing to stop it was a replacemet HW 60A esc also running the same 119. No problems. So what the devil is it?? It's driving me mad!!!
Have you tried setting the low voltage protection to 2.8v?, worked for me.
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