WRC Racing F-One
#181
So what adapter do I have to use?
Tamiya f104? Could anyone give the part# please?
Are there any other adapters (brand, part#) which will fit as well?
#182
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
JPX, I used this
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54215-f...h=595_744_1390
My LHS carries it and fitted it to the F1, Works perfectly. Now I just need to wait for parts to come in so I can fix this car.
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54215-f...h=595_744_1390
My LHS carries it and fitted it to the F1, Works perfectly. Now I just need to wait for parts to come in so I can fix this car.
#183
JPX, I used this
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54215-f...h=595_744_1390
My LHS carries it and fitted it to the F1, Works perfectly. Now I just need to wait for parts to come in so I can fix this car.
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54215-f...h=595_744_1390
My LHS carries it and fitted it to the F1, Works perfectly. Now I just need to wait for parts to come in so I can fix this car.
I wonder, if I could make it by myself ...
Would it also work just to change the bearing to a different/matching size or will I run into other problems?
#184
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
If you look at the picture, the adapter is really thin, I dont think you will be able to find a bearing at that size.
You COULD drill out the center hole of your Spur gear to accept the kit's spur bearing, but you have to make sure that it is centered correctly or you will have gear mesh issue.
If you have access to a mill/lathe Im sure you can make one pretty easily.
You COULD drill out the center hole of your Spur gear to accept the kit's spur bearing, but you have to make sure that it is centered correctly or you will have gear mesh issue.
If you have access to a mill/lathe Im sure you can make one pretty easily.
#185
If you look at the picture, the adapter is really thin, I dont think you will be able to find a bearing at that size.
You COULD drill out the center hole of your Spur gear to accept the kit's spur bearing, but you have to make sure that it is centered correctly or you will have gear mesh issue.
If you have access to a mill/lathe Im sure you can make one pretty easily.
You COULD drill out the center hole of your Spur gear to accept the kit's spur bearing, but you have to make sure that it is centered correctly or you will have gear mesh issue.
If you have access to a mill/lathe Im sure you can make one pretty easily.
Now I understand, why another ball bearing won't fit (for all who might be interested in the details):
The bearings used in the f-one016 are metric and 8x12x3.5mm (metric).
The bearings used in many other F1's or pancars are 1/4"x3/8"x1/8" (inch) which equals to 6,35x9,525x3,175mm.
So that's why the adapter ring has to be quite thin.
For sure I don't want to drill out the center hole of my spur gear as I still might want to use them with my TC.
The other thing to try would be using all parts of a different axle (e.g. XRAY, Associated, Roche, Shepherd ...!) - they all seem to use 1/4"x3/8"x1/8" bearings.
But this might get quite expensive ...
So I'll go with the cheap solution first - adapter ring - and see how it works.
Hope it doesn't wear too much the aluminium part of the axle it sits on.
@disaster999:
thanks for the link!!!
#187
#188
Regional Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Parts finally Came in for the F1 and the LHS helped me with the rear pod binding issue by sanding the pivot balls to remove all of the flashing and right now it moves quite freely. Hit the tracks this past weekend to test the car again and I still have the same issue where the car is so unstable down the straight, any steering input cause the car to fishtail and ultimately into the wall if I cant catch it in time.
My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
#190
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
I run upwards of 3deg toe out on the front to stop mine being so sensitive to steering input at speed. Doesn't necessarily sound logical but it does work.
Parts finally Came in for the F1 and the LHS helped me with the rear pod binding issue by sanding the pivot balls to remove all of the flashing and right now it moves quite freely. Hit the tracks this past weekend to test the car again and I still have the same issue where the car is so unstable down the straight, any steering input cause the car to fishtail and ultimately into the wall if I cant catch it in time.
My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
#191
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
Parts finally Came in for the F1 and the LHS helped me with the rear pod binding issue by sanding the pivot balls to remove all of the flashing and right now it moves quite freely. Hit the tracks this past weekend to test the car again and I still have the same issue where the car is so unstable down the straight, any steering input cause the car to fishtail and ultimately into the wall if I cant catch it in time.
My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
How much droop do you have in the rear pod? Should only be 1-1.5mm
Go softer on the center spring
Reduce camber to -1 or less
Take some caster out
Also add some - expo in your radio to desensitize the steering
#192
But those spur gears (e.g. Associated) have 9.5...mm inner diameter. The original bearing has 12mm.
#193
Tech Regular
Martin Paradis
#194
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
+1 to that! Seems counterintuitive as most setup guide will tell you the other way around (toe in for straight line stability...) but my experience with pan cars, both oval and road course, has been that toe out makes the car more stable on straight line.
Martin Paradis
Martin Paradis
#195
Tech Regular