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Old 02-27-2017, 01:13 AM   #211
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So did more testing this weekend, I changed the Ackerman angle and the car was instantly more stable down the straight. It hasn't completely fix the problem but it's more drivable than before. I kept the toe out to 1 degree and 1 degree camber.

Testing was cut short though when I spun at a corner and a touring car nailed my rear tire and bent the shaft. Good thing the tamiya rear shaft is a direct fit and I was able to a few more laps until it rained out.

Ordered through the border and hopefully it arrives soon
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Old 03-18-2017, 05:54 AM   #212
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Can anybody tell me who makes spur gears 48 pitch with 66 down to 60 teeth?
Only part I could find till now was associated/kimbrough 66t:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...r_66t_48pitch/
Actually I'm looking for 60t but anything smaller than 66t would be great!!!
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Old 03-18-2017, 02:13 PM   #213
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Can anybody tell me who makes spur gears 48 pitch with 66 down to 60 teeth?
Only part I could find till now was associated/kimbrough 66t:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...r_66t_48pitch/
Actually I'm looking for 60t but anything smaller than 66t would be great!!!
To all who may be interessted - I found small spurs 48p here:
Demon Power Products - Servicing Radio Control Cars Since 1978 - 01252 343132
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Old 04-02-2017, 08:48 PM   #214
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Did more testing this weekend, and with the help of some locals trying to figure out the handing of the car, we were able to improve the handing a lot more and calm down the car so its not as twitchy.

We've compressed the front springs and side springs a bit more so there is more pre-load on them, we've also switched out the center shock spring to a longer xray spring. Adjusted the front and rear ride height so theres around 4.6mm in the front and 5mm in the back. Also loosen the rear diff a bunch so it just provides a little of slip but not so much it diffs out when you pull the throttle.

This made the car much more easier to drive, but the rear stock tires were having trouble hooking up, so I swapped out to the Pit Shumizu 572 rears and the car is WAY more planted and I was able to bomb around the track. The front stock tires could use a little more grip, but they were good enough once I get some heat in them. switching to the 573 would provide a lot more front end grip.
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Old 04-14-2017, 01:43 PM   #215
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First time out with my f-one016 today on asphalt (see track below).
Used the stock tires as I still waiting for the new Ride GR's which are required at our club race.
I'm using the HW 21.5T combo with 69/29 = 2.38 gearing (48p)
Main problem was I could not pull the trigger without spinning, had to accelerate very carefully and limit the throttle to approx. 60%
Do I just have to deal with this in F1 or do you have any suggestions?
Diff is allmost slipping.
Using Tamiya copper side springs (seem to be softer than the ones included in the kit)
Soft center spring
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Old 04-14-2017, 07:19 PM   #216
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For F1 generally, you really do have to ease into the throttle and cant just mash it once you are out of the turn. Once the car is set right with the right combination of tire, you could technically drive it very aggressively, but until then, you just have to be gentle with your throttle.

What happens when you try to apply more than 60% throttle? If the car starts wondering and very touchy to drive, esp down the straight, change the ackerman angle so they are more straight rather than angled. I had the same problem as first, but changing the ackerman instantly calmed down the car.

The stock rear tires provide very little grip on asphalt surface and recommend you use something else. The stock center spring is very short and not suited for this kit IMO. I switched to an Xray 2.8 long body shock spring and that helped handling as well.

What damper grease are you using? did you put any shims under the rear pod to increase its pivot range? what are your ride heights?
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Old 04-15-2017, 04:28 AM   #217
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First of all:
Thanks for all your answers!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
What happens when you try to apply more than 60% throttle? If the car starts wondering and very touchy to drive, esp down the straight, change the ackerman angle so they are more straight rather than angled. I had the same problem as first, but changing the ackerman instantly calmed down the car.
The wheels simply start to spin as there just seems too much power. Thats why I reduced the max throttle.
How can I get more ackerman? I'm allready using the rear holes on the bellcrank. Using the front ones would reduce ackerman and set the steering links more angled. (see picture below)

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The stock rear tires provide very little grip on asphalt surface and recommend you use something else. The stock center spring is very short and not suited for this kit IMO. I switched to an Xray 2.8 long body shock spring and that helped handling as well.
Still waiting for the new Ride GR tyres as we have to use them for our club races. I will have to deal with those then.
I changed to an RSD spring which is for long TC dampers and a little softer than the kit red spring compared by pressing both between two fingers. You can also see it on one of the pictures below.

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What damper grease are you using? did you put any shims under the rear pod to increase its pivot range? what are your ride heights?
On the centre shock I'm using 30wt Associated oil (350cst).
On the side damper I'm using 10.000cst (Associated Diff oil) with 2 o-rings installed.
Where should I put shims - under the rear pod? How many mm?
I just put 2mm shims under the pivot linkage (see blue shims in the picture below)
Ride hights are: front 4.8mm and rear 5.0mm
Track is quite bumpy in some parts, thats why I also increased uptravel in the rear to allmost 2mm and in the front to about 1.5mm

Any more suggestions?
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WRC Racing F-One-img_1226.jpg   WRC Racing F-One-img_1225.jpg  
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Old 04-15-2017, 07:09 PM   #218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpx View Post
First of all:
Thanks for all your answers!!!


The wheels simply start to spin as there just seems too much power. Thats why I reduced the max throttle.
How can I get more ackerman? I'm allready using the rear holes on the bellcrank. Using the front ones would reduce ackerman and set the steering links more angled. (see picture below)


Still waiting for the new Ride GR tyres as we have to use them for our club races. I will have to deal with those then.
I changed to an RSD spring which is for long TC dampers and a little softer than the kit red spring compared by pressing both between two fingers. You can also see it on one of the pictures below.


On the centre shock I'm using 30wt Associated oil (350cst).
On the side damper I'm using 10.000cst (Associated Diff oil) with 2 o-rings installed.
Where should I put shims - under the rear pod? How many mm?
I just put 2mm shims under the pivot linkage (see blue shims in the picture below)
Ride hights are: front 4.8mm and rear 5.0mm
Track is quite bumpy in some parts, thats why I also increased uptravel in the rear to allmost 2mm and in the front to about 1.5mm

Any more suggestions?
If the wheels starts to break loose then most probably its a traction issue. what kind of tire prep do you do? From the looks of your picture, you're already at the ideal setting. If your car isnt swerving left and right randomly or very unstable down the straight you dont need to change your ackerman setting

10k oil in the damper tube is not nearly enough to provide any damping for the rear pod. Ive tried up to 1,000,000 diff oil and still didnt like the damping. Ive settled on the tamiya hard friction damping grease which seem to work pretty good. Also Ive took out a one shim from the back of the center shock and moved it to the front of the shock so the damper is more lay down than upright. I put 1mm shim under the pivot linkage but 2mm would work as well.

I think the biggest problem with your setup are the tires. Get the new Ride tires and have a look if that improves the handling.
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Old 04-16-2017, 03:38 AM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
If the wheels starts to break loose then most probably its a traction issue. what kind of tire prep do you do? From the looks of your picture, you're already at the ideal setting. If your car isnt swerving left and right randomly or very unstable down the straight you dont need to change your ackerman setting

10k oil in the damper tube is not nearly enough to provide any damping for the rear pod. Ive tried up to 1,000,000 diff oil and still didnt like the damping. Ive settled on the tamiya hard friction damping grease which seem to work pretty good. Also Ive took out a one shim from the back of the center shock and moved it to the front of the shock so the damper is more lay down than upright. I put 1mm shim under the pivot linkage but 2mm would work as well.

I think the biggest problem with your setup are the tires. Get the new Ride tires and have a look if that improves the handling.
Thanks for having a look at my car and all the advice!
I'll have a try with the Ride tires and go from there.
I'll have to look for some heavier oil maybe to get from the pther guys at the track.
First race is in 2 weeks time, so then I'll let you know how it went!
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:15 AM   #220
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This is my wrc f-one (2016 version)...
Regards from Italy
Marco
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:15 PM   #221
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Looks good Mach12

I bought a bunch of parts for the car and did more testing this past weekend. The rear pivot balls werent as smooth as I liked and they are developing a lot of play so I bought new pivot ball and sockets to replace them, and bought a set of front and side springs so I can play with the settings a bit.

I changed the front and side springs to the hardest they offer. I couldnt tell if the rear od of the car was more planted or not because the front end of the car felt too bouncy with the hard springs and had a lot of understeer even with Pit tires. I went back to the stock medium springs and that made the car much more easier to drive. I was able to push the car harder into the corners with the harder side springs. Quite liking this setup. Now I just gotta work on my driving.
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:22 AM   #222
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Im sure a lot of you would tell me to keep off the boards, or drive better, to avoid crashing, but sometimes nothing is perfect. Your setting isnt setup just right, your not feeling 100% that day or you just make mistakes, happens to all of us.

Well I had my fair share of crashing into the boards head on and that weakened the plastic nose piece in the front. I did some temporary fix with CA but that was quickly undone with one hit, so I had to get creative.







Hopefully this brace holds up. Ive furture dialed in the car this weekend and I was able to make a clean run for the entire pack without the rear stepping out. The trick was simple, lowered the gear ratio. I was running 2.2:1 ratio with 21.5T and i dropped it down to 2.0:1. The motor wasnt strong enough to over power the rear tire grip and I was able to mash the throttle out of the turns. I was running a 44T pinon and a 88T spur which BARELY fits, theres literally no slack in the gear mesh. I will have to drop down to smaller spur in the future, but for the mean time, the car drives pretty good right now.

Last edited by disaster999; 05-01-2017 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 05-01-2017, 10:15 AM   #223
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Thanks for having a look at my car and all the advice!
I'll have a try with the Ride tires and go from there.
I'll have to look for some heavier oil maybe to get from the pther guys at the track.
First race is in 2 weeks time, so then I'll let you know how it went!
So I had my first race yesterday.
We just run 2 finals (each 8min) without qualifying. Spec tires are the new Ride GR front and rear.
I was pretty happy with my car driving on asphalt!

Using the Ride tires was a big difference compared to the kit tires.
Additional to that I changed my speedo to the HW JustStock and set the start mode punch down to #1 out of 9.
Above that I changed the gearing down to 2.1 (66/31 48p).
All in all this was a completly changed car compared to my first rollout 2 weeks ago. Very easy to drive, could pull the trigger much ealier and go to full throttle.
Car had a lot of underrsteer which was good for me to race for the first time.
But now I'm burnig for more!

Wondering how I get more steering especially mid corner and exit.
Allready changed from Tamiya gold (hard) to Tamiya silver (medium) front springs.
Should I try even softer springs in front?
Would I get more steering by changing ackermann to the front two holes on the bellcrank?
Or do you guy have any other suggestions what to try to get more steering?
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Old 05-01-2017, 06:06 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpx View Post
So I had my first race yesterday.
We just run 2 finals (each 8min) without qualifying. Spec tires are the new Ride GR front and rear.
I was pretty happy with my car driving on asphalt!

Using the Ride tires was a big difference compared to the kit tires.
Additional to that I changed my speedo to the HW JustStock and set the start mode punch down to #1 out of 9.
Above that I changed the gearing down to 2.1 (66/31 48p).
All in all this was a completly changed car compared to my first rollout 2 weeks ago. Very easy to drive, could pull the trigger much ealier and go to full throttle.
Car had a lot of underrsteer which was good for me to race for the first time.
But now I'm burnig for more!

Wondering how I get more steering especially mid corner and exit.
Allready changed from Tamiya gold (hard) to Tamiya silver (medium) front springs.
Should I try even softer springs in front?
Would I get more steering by changing ackermann to the front two holes on the bellcrank?
Or do you guy have any other suggestions what to try to get more steering?
As Ive said over in the F1 thread, Changing it to the softer front springs would allow the front to dive more which, in turn, will give you more steering. You can try changing the ackermann to the front 2 holes and see if that would give you more steering, but from my experience, this made my car super twitchy to drive down the straight. It calmed the car down a lot when I changed it the back 2 holes.

Do you sauce and warm up your tires? Try saucing the full rear tire and the inside of the front tire only and see if this gives you more steering. Increase the area of the front tire to be sauced until you get the desired steering.
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Old 05-06-2017, 07:19 AM   #225
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Quote:
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As Ive said over in the F1 thread, Changing it to the softer front springs would allow the front to dive more which, in turn, will give you more steering. You can try changing the ackermann to the front 2 holes and see if that would give you more steering, but from my experience, this made my car super twitchy to drive down the straight. It calmed the car down a lot when I changed it the back 2 holes.

Do you sauce and warm up your tires? Try saucing the full rear tire and the inside of the front tire only and see if this gives you more steering. Increase the area of the front tire to be sauced until you get the desired steering.
Maybe some double posting from me in the F1 thread.
But anyway - some more detailed discussion here in the WRC thread shouldn't be wrong.

So as I have to use the Ride GR tires (obligatory) and we are not allowed to sauce our tires, I'll defintely have to work on my setup to find some more grip for mid corner and corner exit.
I decided to try 6 caster (used 3 before) and will also test out, if changing the ackerman to the front two holes on the bellcrank.
About springs: I felt my front spring allready quite soft - maybe allready obviously softer than the XRAY's finishing in front of me.
But nevertheless - going even softer might be worth a try!

What about changing the rear side springs a little harder?
What should be the effect of changing the side springs to softer or harder?
And additionally to that: what would be the influence of giving more preload on the springs?

So many things to try but no time for testing ...
And we are running without qualifiers so the car should be well prepared for the race.
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