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Old 02-03-2017, 10:38 AM   #181
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Originally Posted by Thaan View Post
That's what I meant, you can use any spur you like, as long as you use the POM ring from Tamiya. We're using it here with a different spur.
I have a lot of Kimborough (48dp) spurs from my buggy's and TC's which I would like to use on my fone016.
So what adapter do I have to use?
Tamiya f104? Could anyone give the part# please?
Are there any other adapters (brand, part#) which will fit as well?
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Old 02-04-2017, 09:08 AM   #182
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JPX, I used this

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54215-f...h=595_744_1390

My LHS carries it and fitted it to the F1, Works perfectly. Now I just need to wait for parts to come in so I can fix this car.
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Old 02-04-2017, 09:15 AM   #183
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JPX, I used this

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-54215-f...h=595_744_1390

My LHS carries it and fitted it to the F1, Works perfectly. Now I just need to wait for parts to come in so I can fix this car.
Thanks for that!
I wonder, if I could make it by myself ...

Would it also work just to change the bearing to a different/matching size or will I run into other problems?
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Old 02-04-2017, 09:44 AM   #184
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If you look at the picture, the adapter is really thin, I dont think you will be able to find a bearing at that size.

You COULD drill out the center hole of your Spur gear to accept the kit's spur bearing, but you have to make sure that it is centered correctly or you will have gear mesh issue.

If you have access to a mill/lathe Im sure you can make one pretty easily.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:46 AM   #185
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If you look at the picture, the adapter is really thin, I dont think you will be able to find a bearing at that size.

You COULD drill out the center hole of your Spur gear to accept the kit's spur bearing, but you have to make sure that it is centered correctly or you will have gear mesh issue.

If you have access to a mill/lathe Im sure you can make one pretty easily.
I disassembled my diff now to see how I could fit other spur gears.
Now I understand, why another ball bearing won't fit (for all who might be interested in the details):
The bearings used in the f-one016 are metric and 8x12x3.5mm (metric).
The bearings used in many other F1's or pancars are 1/4"x3/8"x1/8" (inch) which equals to 6,35x9,525x3,175mm.
So that's why the adapter ring has to be quite thin.

For sure I don't want to drill out the center hole of my spur gear as I still might want to use them with my TC.

The other thing to try would be using all parts of a different axle (e.g. XRAY, Associated, Roche, Shepherd ...!) - they all seem to use 1/4"x3/8"x1/8" bearings.
But this might get quite expensive ...

So I'll go with the cheap solution first - adapter ring - and see how it works.
Hope it doesn't wear too much the aluminium part of the axle it sits on.

@disaster999:
thanks for the link!!!
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Old 02-11-2017, 11:52 AM   #186
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Originally Posted by Test Driver View Post
You are right about the f104 spurs. Exotek did make a 93t 64dp spur which is no longer available.
FENIX makes machined spurs in a few different sizes that work with the TAMIYA/WRC center bearing l. They are not cheap, but are of the highest quality
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:21 PM   #187
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
FENIX makes machined spurs in a few different sizes that work with the TAMIYA/WRC center bearing l. They are not cheap, but are of the highest quality
Do they also make 48dp spurs to fit with 12mm bearings?
I could only find 64dp ...
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:50 PM   #188
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Parts finally Came in for the F1 and the LHS helped me with the rear pod binding issue by sanding the pivot balls to remove all of the flashing and right now it moves quite freely. Hit the tracks this past weekend to test the car again and I still have the same issue where the car is so unstable down the straight, any steering input cause the car to fishtail and ultimately into the wall if I cant catch it in time.

My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:58 PM   #189
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Originally Posted by jpx View Post
Do they also make 48dp spurs to fit with 12mm bearings?
I could only find 64dp ...
The only 48T pan car spur gear I can find is from associated. Why would you want to go to 48p? you have much fine adjustment for gearing with 48p
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Old 02-13-2017, 02:06 AM   #190
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I run upwards of 3deg toe out on the front to stop mine being so sensitive to steering input at speed. Doesn't necessarily sound logical but it does work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
Parts finally Came in for the F1 and the LHS helped me with the rear pod binding issue by sanding the pivot balls to remove all of the flashing and right now it moves quite freely. Hit the tracks this past weekend to test the car again and I still have the same issue where the car is so unstable down the straight, any steering input cause the car to fishtail and ultimately into the wall if I cant catch it in time.

My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:21 AM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
Parts finally Came in for the F1 and the LHS helped me with the rear pod binding issue by sanding the pivot balls to remove all of the flashing and right now it moves quite freely. Hit the tracks this past weekend to test the car again and I still have the same issue where the car is so unstable down the straight, any steering input cause the car to fishtail and ultimately into the wall if I cant catch it in time.

My setup right now is:
Camber: -2 degree
Caster: -6 degree
Toe: +1 degree
Front spring: Stock with 100k oil
Side springs: Stock
Damper tube: 1 O-ring with Tamiya Hard Damping grease
Shock oil: Stock
Shock spring: Stock
Ride height: 5mm all round
Tire: Stock
Try adding 1-2mm of front droop
How much droop do you have in the rear pod? Should only be 1-1.5mm
Go softer on the center spring
Reduce camber to -1 or less
Take some caster out
Also add some - expo in your radio to desensitize the steering
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:40 AM   #192
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Originally Posted by disaster999 View Post
The only 48T pan car spur gear I can find is from associated. Why would you want to go to 48p? you have much fine adjustment for gearing with 48p
Cause I have tons of 48p spurs from my TC, which I'd like to use together with all The 48p pinions I have.
But those spur gears (e.g. Associated) have 9.5...mm inner diameter. The original bearing has 12mm.
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:54 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by Test Driver View Post
I run upwards of 3deg toe out on the front to stop mine being so sensitive to steering input at speed. Doesn't necessarily sound logical but it does work.
+1 to that! Seems counterintuitive as most setup guide will tell you the other way around (toe in for straight line stability...) but my experience with pan cars, both oval and road course, has been that toe out makes the car more stable on straight line.

Martin Paradis
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:03 PM   #194
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Originally Posted by rhodopsine View Post
+1 to that! Seems counterintuitive as most setup guide will tell you the other way around (toe in for straight line stability...) but my experience with pan cars, both oval and road course, has been that toe out makes the car more stable on straight line.

Martin Paradis
I've never run toe out unless I was trying to get more turn in. If his car is that squirrely toe out will make it worse.
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Old 02-13-2017, 05:43 PM   #195
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Originally Posted by BP SHADOW View Post
I've never run toe out unless I was trying to get more turn in. If his car is that squirrely toe out will make it worse.
Don't know... was just stating what I found in 20+ years of pan car racing...

Martin Paradis
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