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Old 08-12-2016, 02:19 PM   #166
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Anyone running the '16? Looking at getting one now that WRC has a distributor in the states, http://wallacemotorsports.net/
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:18 AM   #167
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Anyone running the '16? Looking at getting one now that WRC has a distributor in the states, http://wallacemotorsports.net/
We (The-Border.com) have already shipped multiple F-One 2016 kits to customers in the US, so there's already F-One's driving around in the states.

The 2016 is real nice, not just the looks but WRC picked up on the comments on the '014 version and made some improvements on setup changes on the car.

I don't know Wallacemotorsports.net, but we've stocked WRC for quite a while now & plenty of people know we've got it in stock & ship very quickly and they seem to find it nice that there's very good support for a brand that isn't as well known as XRAY/Serpent.
I prefer the F-One to most other F1 kits, it's different, but in a very nice & good looking way. Very competitive & innovative.

The kit is also relatively cheap, considering that it comes with a body & a set of tyres.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:19 AM   #168
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Anyone running the '16? Looking at getting one now that WRC has a distributor in the states, http://wallacemotorsports.net/
I just finished building mine. Have not run it yet, but here are my preliminary observations.

First, this is not a kit for an inexperienced builder. While not overly complicated, the manual is definitely not Tamiya or Xray style. There were also a couple places where the drawings might be a little misleading, so you must pay attention while building.

Part quality and finish is generally extremely good, except for a few cream coloured plastic parts. These (shock piston and pivot balls for front and rear suspension) are, in my opinion, just ok. They will need some massaging to move smoothly. I even ended up putting Yokomo piston in the shock instead of the stock one! The white plastic sockets that hold the pivot balls fit very nicely in their respective position. They need a bit of squeezing though for the ball to rotate freely. Carbon and black plastic parts are flawless and fit is perfect, tight but not hard to put in place.

The included turnbuckles are, in my opinion, too short. They are 30 mm and only go in a few mm in the ball cups. I ended up exchanging them for 35 mm ones that I had and I feel much more confident that they will hold their setting if I hit something with the front wheels.

The camber is done by a pillow ball. Works good, but I decided to polish the ball to make it smoother. It was worth the effort, I think. The nut that holds the ball in place in the steering block fits a little too well. So well in fact that I feared that it would risk getting unscrewed due to vibration. I put a little drop of CA on the fillets and now it fits tight enough that I think it will hold fine. I also put some anti wear grease in the pillow ball assembly as the ball and nut make a metal to metal contact. The rest of the front suspension is quite simple. And once properly massaged, is very smooth.

The bellcrank is very nice. It has a built in servo saver and the servo connects to it with 2 turnbuckles, which allows to make a slop free setting while staying very free.

The rear suspension is handled by a center shock, side springs and a friction damper. The damper uses o rings and lube to generate resistance. While interesting, I have not managed to make movement as smooth as I would have liked. I'll try it, but I might end up changing it by a Tamiya one. Tweak is adjusted high screwing or unscrewing a 3 mm locknut from the top. A little unconventional but works the same as the traditional way.

Rear axle is HEAVY! Diff is smooth ans works well. Comes with white ceramic balls, which I had not seen in a long time.

Can't say much about the tires other than the fronts feel hard and the rears feel quite soft.

The body is good looking and fits perfectly. It looks close to F1s from this year and last year. Front and rear wings look sturdy and are flexible enough that they should resist impacts well. They use a proprietary mounting system though so you can't use other wings without some fitting.

Martin Paradis
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:36 AM   #169
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I just finished building my kit and my experience was similar to yours, lousy manual but a good build. I talked to the Wallace Motorsports guys and they're thinking of making new manuals or creating a video walk through of what to look out for in the build process.

For the pivots on the rear pod I took the steel ball and chucked it in the dremel while in the white pivot, ran it around for a few seconds in each direction to "break in" the white pivots. They're now quite free and smooth. It's funny because the front pivots were free without any work.

I didn't notice anything with the turnbuckles but will take a look when I get home.

I haven't run the car yet but I hear good things about the P-One tires, time will tell how well they perform. I like the look of the bigger wheel compared to the tamiya style F1 tires.
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Old 08-19-2016, 05:38 PM   #170
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.... They use a proprietary mounting system though so you can't use other wings without some fitting....

Martin Paradis
I have designed and made an adapter for fitting "conventional" rear wings to the F-One. I have been running mine for a few months now with the Serpent rear wing. No issues I have come across. Maybe a little more effect as it pushes the rear wing mount rearward about another 10mm.
As for the P-One tires, I found that I had a lot of "push" on a cold track. Just waiting for summer so come around here in Australia to try them on a hot track.
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http://shpws.me/MAHs
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Old 12-09-2016, 05:35 AM   #171
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A little bit quiet here ...

Just finished building my '016
Will work on the boy after chrismas.

Allthough allmost everybody around my place is running XRAY I chose the WRC 'cause of the nice looking upper front arms, the high nose and also the little unconventional linkage for the rear pod.

I'm new to F1 and looking forward racing 21.5T outdoors so there's still left some time to prepare the car.

Does anyone of you guys have a good setup to start from for medium traction asphalt?
At what ride hight should I set front and rear for running on asphalt?
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Last edited by jpx; 12-10-2016 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 01-01-2017, 08:34 AM   #172
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Default Spur gear

You can use spur gears for the tamiya f104. The Exotek pom 93t spur works great.
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:06 PM   #173
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Old 01-28-2017, 08:10 PM   #174
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Just pulled the trigger on the WRC Racing F-One '16.

The build was pretty straight forward and finished building the car in about 3-4 hours. Parts fit together well but the instructions is a little unclear on which screws or how the parts fitted. People who are mechanically inclined and have experience building car kits should be able to figure it out. The pivot balls on the rear pod is a bit tight even after lubing it. Front to back and side to side action binds pretty bad esp the front to back pivot. It will not call back on its own. Hopefully after a few break in runs the pivot would free up. Also, IMO, they should of raised the pivot "brace" 2mm from the factory as I feel like the stock setup doesnt alot enough movement.

The front and rear wing included in the kit seems like a nice kit and reminds me of the Montech wings, the unique front does require a special wing in the front, but I wished the rear uses the more standard Tamiya/Montech design so there are more wing choices.

The front arms is full plastic which worries me a bit as my friends who drive the Shepherd F1 all had their arms break during a bad crash. The front end design is vastly different than traditional design and its lifted up just like the real F1 cars. But this leaves the main chassis exposed. Probably not a problem with carpet racing, but asphalt racing with concrete curbs where you can ride over, that nose will take most of the forces and I can see the front of the chassis shattering if hit just right.

The body the car came with is pretty good and resembles an actual F1 car, unlike the xray or shepherd bodys which I generally hate, but no where as detailed as the Protoform bodies. Went with the Benson & Hedges scheme as it was relatively easy and I had some stickers for, but it wasnt a fullset so I randomly places WRC stickers all over the body

All in all, I really enjoy building the car and have high hopes it would perform pretty well on the track. Cant wait to take it out for a spin and see how the tires perform on my other F1 as well.








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Old 01-31-2017, 06:06 PM   #175
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Took the F1 out on its first run yesterday. In short, the stock setup worked pretty well for asphalt. The tires the car came with did not grip as well as I had hoped. The car pushed and oversteered pretty easily. I swapped it out with a set of Pit Shumizu 573 F and 572 R and they car handled a lot better.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


As I drove the car more, it became REALLY twitch down the straight. Micro adjustment while charging down the straight would upset the car so much the car would instantly oversteer, spin out crash into the boards. This happened a few times and the last time it happened, I crashed so hard I ripped the ball and socket joint on the front left arm out, breaking plastic socket, broke the arm on the steering knuckle, and the bearing punched through the ride height adjuster block as it slapped the boards. I managed to glue the arm back on the knuckle with some CA, but we all know how long this is going to last...



I took the car apart to inspect it making sure everything is still fine and noticed the rear pod is still not that smooth. The front and back pivot is a lot smoother over stock, but you can still hear it creak as move it. Side to Side pivot did not get any better and binds as you move it more

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


I hope my LHS stocked parts for the F1 and doesnt take too long to get here if they need to order it for me. Also, I need a smaller spur gear if I want keep up with ppl on my track with a 21.5T motor. The stock 98T only works with a 32T max pinion. The rollout is too small for 21.5T. As I read a few post above mine saying Tamiya spur gear works for the F1, could I use the optional adapter ring from Tamiya so I can use standard pan car spur gears?

Last edited by disaster999; 01-31-2017 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 02-01-2017, 07:33 AM   #176
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Regarding your last question: you can use different spurs, no problem.

The-Border has things like spurs, diff balls (you can use 1/8 diff bals but the default balls in the box are ceramic diff bals, quite good), spare parts etc and ships all WRC items worldwide.

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Old 02-01-2017, 07:03 PM   #177
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Regarding your last question: you can use different spurs, no problem.
I don't think this is true. I was next to disaster999 when we tried to change the spur gear to other pan car style spur gears. It looks like it needs the F104 bushing/adapter to allow the spur gear to sit on the shaft. All my pan cars and F1 use the same spur gears with bearings to support.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:03 AM   #178
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I don't think this is true. I was next to disaster999 when we tried to change the spur gear to other pan car style spur gears. It looks like it needs the F104 bushing/adapter to allow the spur gear to sit on the shaft. All my pan cars and F1 use the same spur gears with bearings to support.
You are right about the f104 spurs. Exotek did make a 93t 64dp spur which is no longer available.
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:12 AM   #179
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I spoke to the local distributor in Hong Kong and they said the F104 spur gear adapter would allow you to run aftermarket spur gear with the WRC drive shaft. I still gotta wait for parts to arrive, ETA next week
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:10 AM   #180
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I don't think this is true. I was next to disaster999 when we tried to change the spur gear to other pan car style spur gears. It looks like it needs the F104 bushing/adapter to allow the spur gear to sit on the shaft. All my pan cars and F1 use the same spur gears with bearings to support.
That's what I meant, you can use any spur you like, as long as you use the POM ring from Tamiya. We're using it here with a different spur.
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