Faster corner speed like pro
#301
hm ... i also use the c1 on the right ......
it feels like it has more response and stearing ...... LOVED IT
what does it actually do ???
it feels like it has more response and stearing ...... LOVED IT
what does it actually do ???
#303
Tech Regular
could anyone guide me the most effecient way of driving a touring car with front and center one-ways??i'm so used to using fulltime 4wd that i'm having problems trying to learn how to drive using one-ways...
thanks
thanks
#304
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
First you probably want to dial in a little throttle, so the car is slightly rolling while he trigger is in the neutral position, especially if you are using a stock motor. Next you will want to set yourself for the trn more in advance, because you need to be smoother on the steering especially when off throttle. Slow down for the turn a hair sooner and get back on the throttle a little sooner too.
Limiting rear droop a little more may also help to keep from transfering too much weight to the front when you let off the throttle.
Limiting rear droop a little more may also help to keep from transfering too much weight to the front when you let off the throttle.
#305
Mainly, one-ways are about smooth cornering and going off-throttle into the corners. Haipins: Just coast around.
If your ESC got adjustable auto-brake, you would probably like to disable it. This way you dont need that little amount of throttle at neutral position.
ABS can also be nice.
I had to soften the rear, to gain enough grip. But at some point, the rear springs got too soft, means too much weight to the rear during acceleration. Instead, I use long rear camber links. This way more chassis roll is allowed, without transferring too much weight to the rear.
If your ESC got adjustable auto-brake, you would probably like to disable it. This way you dont need that little amount of throttle at neutral position.
ABS can also be nice.
I had to soften the rear, to gain enough grip. But at some point, the rear springs got too soft, means too much weight to the rear during acceleration. Instead, I use long rear camber links. This way more chassis roll is allowed, without transferring too much weight to the rear.
#306
Tech Regular
ok let me see if i understand your replies.......when entering a hairpin...i'll have to let go of my throttle earlier than i would with 4wd.....as i would have my throttle trim up till the car is moving slightly i'll just have to let go of the throttle and let it roll thru the corner...and put back the throttle as i'm going out of the corner??is this correct???or should i let go of the throttle earlier and put some throttle back on when entering the corner??
thanka again for the replies
thanka again for the replies
#307
Ian ..... i drive with dual 1ways ...
i think its easy to learn as long as u get rid of the 4wd driving habits 1st !
drive one ways like a old man slow and smooth - not the most exciting way of driving
- time ur deceleration off trottle without brakes to the speed u want for a paticular turn (smoothly and mildly turn in earlier).... and once u have the front pointing the way u want it to( coming out)
just punch the trottle and smoothly and mildly again addjust the stearing ...
i think its easy to learn as long as u get rid of the 4wd driving habits 1st !
drive one ways like a old man slow and smooth - not the most exciting way of driving
- time ur deceleration off trottle without brakes to the speed u want for a paticular turn (smoothly and mildly turn in earlier).... and once u have the front pointing the way u want it to( coming out)
just punch the trottle and smoothly and mildly again addjust the stearing ...
#308
Tech Regular
so what's the difference betweeen using dual oneways and just the front oneway??
#309
with dual one ways i get slightly more stearing ......
then centre one ways alone
and if it the front one ways only..... i felt little to no difference except wierd chateristics which i cannot explain during coming outa turns
then centre one ways alone
and if it the front one ways only..... i felt little to no difference except wierd chateristics which i cannot explain during coming outa turns
#310
center oneways = more efficient drive train
front oneways diff - giv more front traction to giv more steering
front oneways diff - giv more front traction to giv more steering
#311
Rollout?
Hi guys, i was just wondering what rollout and gear ratio means?
EG, how high is high and how low is low? my rollout is 81.4, what does that mean? And is there is a safety zone that gearing ratio should stay in? And what would be better for a short tight track compared to a bigger one.
Sorry about all these questions...I'm quite new to electric.
Thanks
Jeff
ps-racing 540 and stock
EG, how high is high and how low is low? my rollout is 81.4, what does that mean? And is there is a safety zone that gearing ratio should stay in? And what would be better for a short tight track compared to a bigger one.
Sorry about all these questions...I'm quite new to electric.
Thanks
Jeff
ps-racing 540 and stock
#312
Well I'd be amazed if your rollout is 81.4 - for a start you say you don't know what rollout is, so I'm surprised you can measure it.
Rollout is measured in mm per rev.
Make a mark on your pinion, rotate the motor one full revolution, and see how far your car has moved - that distance is the rollout.
30-35mm/rev is more typical for a stock powered touring car (I think).
Rollout is used mainly by cars running foam tyres - as the tyre wears, the tyre diameter and circumference decrease, changing the effect of the gear ratio - rollout is a truer measure of a cars gear ratio.
With actual gear ratio's, it can be slightly confusing.
What's referred to as a "high" ratio, looks, numerically, low - 5:1 is a high ratio.
A "low" ratio is numerically high e.g. 10:1.
Ratio's are worked out as (spur/pinion)xinternal ratio (the reduction in the car's gearbox).
High ratios, or large rollouts, give more top end for big tracks, low ratios and small rollouts, give more punch (in general), for tighter tracks.
But gearing electric motors can be weird, especially with stocks - sometimes, you can gear higher, and the car will feel punchier, other times you can gear lower and the car will have more top end.
So trial and error is the best way to fine-tune gearing for certain motors and tracks.
Start your stock at 7:1 (assuming you run a tourer), and the 540 at 6:1.
Rollout is measured in mm per rev.
Make a mark on your pinion, rotate the motor one full revolution, and see how far your car has moved - that distance is the rollout.
30-35mm/rev is more typical for a stock powered touring car (I think).
Rollout is used mainly by cars running foam tyres - as the tyre wears, the tyre diameter and circumference decrease, changing the effect of the gear ratio - rollout is a truer measure of a cars gear ratio.
With actual gear ratio's, it can be slightly confusing.
What's referred to as a "high" ratio, looks, numerically, low - 5:1 is a high ratio.
A "low" ratio is numerically high e.g. 10:1.
Ratio's are worked out as (spur/pinion)xinternal ratio (the reduction in the car's gearbox).
High ratios, or large rollouts, give more top end for big tracks, low ratios and small rollouts, give more punch (in general), for tighter tracks.
But gearing electric motors can be weird, especially with stocks - sometimes, you can gear higher, and the car will feel punchier, other times you can gear lower and the car will have more top end.
So trial and error is the best way to fine-tune gearing for certain motors and tracks.
Start your stock at 7:1 (assuming you run a tourer), and the 540 at 6:1.
#313
Oops
HI there,
Ooops sorry, i actually measure the spurs as pinion and the other way around
My rollout was actually 37, which i am quite happy with. Thanks for the info that you provided me with. That should get me started somewhere. BTW: does that mean the faster the motor, the lower i should gear it?
Thanks
Jeff
Ooops sorry, i actually measure the spurs as pinion and the other way around
My rollout was actually 37, which i am quite happy with. Thanks for the info that you provided me with. That should get me started somewhere. BTW: does that mean the faster the motor, the lower i should gear it?
Thanks
Jeff
#314
faster motor = lower ratio
#315
tire lifting
Hey guys
I know every one has seen a high performance front wheel drive car lift its inside rear tire during a turn and a rear wheel car lift it’s inside front tire in a turn. I’ve had two older 4wd sedans, and both lift the inside rear tire in a turn. Is there any thing you can do to help plant this tire to help accelerate off a turn, like a rwd, or is the just something you have to accept, like the fwd.
thanks
I know every one has seen a high performance front wheel drive car lift its inside rear tire during a turn and a rear wheel car lift it’s inside front tire in a turn. I’ve had two older 4wd sedans, and both lift the inside rear tire in a turn. Is there any thing you can do to help plant this tire to help accelerate off a turn, like a rwd, or is the just something you have to accept, like the fwd.
thanks