Toolmannz2

iTrader: (2)

Hi Dave
Heres my current setup I used last week which workrd pretty well.
Im runnig 57mm dia foams 26mm wide in front and 30mm wide in the rear.
Any help would be appreciated.
Dave.

Foxxrocket

You have one hole in the pistons, both front, and rear. You might want to use lighter shock fluid. at the vary least, in the rear. Other than that, it's vary close to the setup I run.

Tiger72

iTrader: (1)

I'm ruining in VTA class on high traction carpet. Any set ups? Have alot of front bite in the turns right now. Actually lifting the inside rear in the turns IF I'm not traction rolling. Recently added frt and rear anti-roll bars w/ minimal help.

Just looking for some comparison.
Thanks.

yellowpasta2000

iTrader: (16)

use a lighter antiroll bar in the rear

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

In your previous post, you said you had a hard time with losing grip on power. Looking at the sheet, most of that problem is coming from your rear suspension mount shims. Try a three bump shim under both. Also, as far as the rear suspension mounts go, you should definitely try replacing the square with another circle mount... and be sure to run the x 3.0. The benefits here are wider rear track and less rear toe for those beefy rear foams. If you dont wanna spring for the aluminum parts until you know you like the changes, snag them in plastic to save some money.

Rear arm mounts: circle, and x 3.0 + 3 bump shim under each.
Front arm mounts: triangle + 2 bump shim, circle + 1 bump shim.

I would also change your silver ballstud + washer for the inboard rear camber link. Use a black ballstud, no washer, inside hole. You would also benefit by using JRX-S rear 0 offset hubs with silver ballstuds... the stock rear hubs "wash out" easily on foams with less sidebite. You can also move them back and forth for wheelbase change. See previous pic of the rear of my car if you dunno what they look like.

Inboard camber link: black no shims, inside hole.

I always hated the way AE expressed arm shimming on the setup sheet. Basically you want .090 spacers on the front of the front arm, and .090 behind the back arm. My car is apart so i took this pic to help. My spacers are black, single piece plastic... kinda hard to see. There are more reasons for this arm spacing than wheelbase... i wont even go into it now, just try it combined with the above changes and you will notice a huge difference.



Try changing your front shock oil to 45wt, and add a REAR .063 swaybar (using same rear shock position). I see you have the spine plate marked as used. If youre bored one day, mod it like this...



... and try moving it all the way forward. It works well like this with more adjustability.

Keep in mind all these changes work best combined. If you wanna start slow, work on the arm mount shims, and arm spacing first. Always start low on the chassis and work your way up. Use top chassis changes (shock positions/springs/oil and camber links) to fine tune a setup. Remember to always properly prep your tires, and tweak the car between chassis changes. Consistent testing provides consistent repeatable results.

Let me know how this works for ya... or PM me if you have any other ideas or questions!

Toolmannz2

iTrader: (2)

Dave Your a Legend! Thanks for all that great info. What i will do now is make all the changes to the car as you reccommended and give it a try but take my onroad car along as a backup . Just a few quetions though, Im a machinest by trade and made up a circle mount for my car before but could never really get it to work, hopefully with the other changes you have given me I may get a better result. Also is this a base setup Dave, I mean could I try this on my outdoor rubber tired stock car as well?. I ask this as I have a major outdoor event coming up in October and would really like to try and get a bit more speed in the infield through the S section.This is on on the track I sent you to look at. And what is the difference between the black and silver ballstuds as I dont have any spare black ones.once again thanks for all your help.
Dave

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

You got PM!!

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

I decided to see what parts from my TC5 would fit on the TC4, and found out the TC5 hubs, castor blocks and cvas will fit the the TC4. The problem is if you decide to use TC5 hubs you gotta use TC5 CVA's because the wheel bearings are different. Which you could probably fix with using non-AE bearings. If I can easily get TC4 arms (I'm waiting on a email from Harris R/C) I'll slowly convert from TC4 hubs to TC5 hubs, which means less spares to carry, but it will probably cost AUS$150 considering a TC5 CVA is AUS$30.
Heres some photos, all parts mounted were taken directly from my TC5
Rear,

Front,

Above, straight-ish

Above, right lock

Above, left lock


Part numbers to do a full conversion of parts, taken directly from a TC5 parts catalog.



I figure this might useful to someone who has problems finding replacement CVD's for the the TC4, I want to do this to make my life easier for parts ordering. I have no idea if this will work on a Tub, but it should.

Kajman

iTrader: (4)

Has anyone experience with setup for rally/oval dirt for tc4ft? I will start setuping mine today and was wandering if anyone knows some tips?
First I want to give longer shock ends, higher arms mounts, front with 4-8 degree caster, shocks position one hole from outside. Hope to get 15mm ride height.

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

I probably wouldn't use a FT for dirt, I think a tub would be better as it can provide protection for the electrics. With the shocks B44 could be a possibility.

Kajman

iTrader: (4)

It is quite popular here It works as good as tube I'll report when it is done If any ideas, please do not hesitate

redmike76

iTrader: (36)

I have searched a bunch, but can't seem to find quite what I want to know. I'm hoping that some of you who own and race TC4s personally will be able to help me out.

I just bought a used tub chassis TC4 and need to get some gears for it. I want to get the necessary gearing to run both 21.5 and 17.5. What I need to know is what combination of spur and pinion gears will fit, and work well, to give me a range of FDR's from 4.5 to 3.5? I would prefer to run 48P, but can go with 64P too. I have used Gearchart to figure out what combinations can give those FDRs, but what I really need is real world experience of what actually fits and has been used. Any help you guys can offer up would be greatly appreciated!!

burnineyes

iTrader: (17)

is anyone making a reasonable priced steel input drive cup for this car? I found one at Niftech, but its $30 for a set. If anyone knows what will fit please let me know.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Last i heard Niftech went out of business? I see the webpage is still up tho. I hope they are still in business... i have a few things i would like to get from them if so. One thing is for sure... that will be the last set of mainshaft drivecups you will EVER buy. Niftech was nothing but high quality ish back in the day, i still have some of their parts that have yet to wear out!

Nice bit of work there!

Im assuming the hingepins are identical in diameter? What about the pins in the axles, do they fit the outdrives properly without any slop? The ackermann angle looks a bit off considering the much longer steering knuckle for the Tc5. Maybe a retrofitted Tc3 steering rack will fix that...

I was curious how the Tc4 FT shock towers compare to the Tc5's shock towers... both in mounting and shock locations.

Foxxrocket

Try IRS racing. They also make metal drive cups. I'm just not sure if they're steel or alumunim.