Hooligan_

iTrader: (17)

All the parts mentioned would be great to have in a parts box while at the track. I would also suggest buying a pack of axle nuts and maybe a screw set. The screw set may be a little overboard. But you never know when you may drop a screw while wrenching on you vehicle at the track. The wheel nuts are a must though. 2 people at the track had a wheel come off last Sunday.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

You can never have too many spares... nuts, bolts, screws, arms, caster blocks... especially after a car is discontinued. Having the parts in a box when something does happen is a great stress reliever. Nothing sucks more than having to run around trying to find something from someone else to get your car back up and running.

Years ago when the XRAY cars were realllly becoming popular, i went to a race out of state and didnt have a spare steering rack on me. I wasnt too concerned as i had never had one break before. Its an AE car, surely the on site hobby shop would have spares. As luck would have it, i got spun out coming out of the sweeper.... spun sideways and nailed by another car... the hit broke my rack in two. The local hobby shop had NO AE parts on the wall. The local AE sponsored guys were too busy to stop, look in their bags, and see if they had a spare. So i didnt ask twice. I packed and had a nice 4 hour drive home ahead of me. I didnt even finish the first qualifier. A multi-lesson learned weekend for sure. Avoid this if at all possible.

As far as the belt and shaft debate goes... geez this is an OLLLD discussion. All i will add is... personal preference. A shaft car requires A LOT of attention to throttle input, even in stock class. A belt car feels numb to throttle/brake/drag brake input IMO. If you are on your game... a shaft car can be just as fast as a belt car... but i will not say one is better than the other. But you WILL be up on the wheel A LOT more than your average belt car. I tried an XRAY T2. It was different. Not better. I sold it and to this day... still wheel my TC4. Was the XRAY easier to drive? Eh... maybe. It did feel easier to be consistent with it. Both the TC3/4 need great chassis prep and setup work to REALLY shine. In the end tho, it really comes down to driver preference and skill...

javacrazy

iTrader: (20)

Do you guys have a good setup for medium/high bite asphalt track?
I couldn't find any setup sheet on Associated's website.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

Indoor or outdoor asphalt? Is it a tight, technical track... or an open, flowing track? Which Tc4 are you using... tub or FT? Are you running foam or rubber tires?

Scooter79rs

iTrader: (9)

The way I see it with belt and shaft is that they both have their pros and cons that the user will have to accept with their choice, but both can be driven as well as each other or as poorly. I'm the only person using a shaft car where I race and I'm currently leading in points for Stock Tourer, not bad for a 4 yr old car

@javacrazy, need more info then that, if it's a large open flowing track with rubber I may be able to help you.

javacrazy

iTrader: (20)

Outdoor asphalt / Technical / Tube TC4 RTR / Sorex 32 or 36.

To all:

Thanks for answering all the questions, it's greatly appreciated!

This is the Track. Four Seasons, Lacey, WA

Foxxrocket

Here is my setup.

Toe:
1.0 toe-out front
2.0 toe-in rear
Camber:
-1.5 front
-2.0 rear
Caster:
3° front
2° rear
Springs:
pistion #2, 40W, Blue front
pistion #2, 40W, Blue rear
Ride height:
4.5mm front
4.5mm rear
Droop:
4.5mm front
4.5mm rear
Sway-bars:
black front
black rear
Differentials:
Spool front
Ball Diff rear
Tires:
28R front
28R rear

Just a side note. I have my shocks laid down three holes in the front and one hole in the rear.

RepaF1

I've seen a used TC4 Team Kit for sale for about $100 US, it has alum shocks, front and rear aluminum braces and a front one way diff, motor and servo.

This would be a good deal but I have some questions as I am new to TC. How available are parts for the TC4? If I do some club racing (stock class) how will it compare to some TA05's?

I tried reading through this tread, but 600+ pages it alot to look at. Any insightful tips, if I am comparing the TC4 to a TC3 to a TA05-IFS?

pakk

iTrader: (80)

I have found my LHS's don't support the TC4 as well as other cars. Where I am, the best support seems to be with TC5's and cyclones. But that did not stop me. I buy all my spares online. As I started getting into it, I just looked for deals in our classies and picked them up if the price was right. Also, when I break something, I buy x2. It is less convenient, but a lot cheaper and less frustrating in the long run, I hope at least.

--pakk

pakk

iTrader: (80)

I picked up a BMI TC4 from our classies and have a few questions.

1. Is the upper and lower deck interchangeable with the FT TC4 upper and lower? Can I mix them up, like BMI top with FT tc4 bottom and vice versa.

2. Engine mount. There is a different style mount that I like, but it is a little weird. It is like something is missing. The mounting of the motor is in a way that makes me have to put the pinion on the very edge of the shaft. The set screw litterally can not go any further out. It works, I just don't like it.

3. This may or may not have to do with the BMI chassis. It probably doesn't to be honest. When I go left, it makes a noise. When it makes this noise, it does not turn as sharp as it should. This does not happen at very low speeds, but you doesn't have to go insanely fast to make it do it. As I look down at the car, I can't see anything. To me it sounds like the rear diff. I don't think it is the front because it has a one way in front. It makes a sort of rubbing vibrating noise. I know this is tough to fix over the net, but if anyone has any ideas, I'm open to them. It also will not do it when I am holding the car in the air, so there has to be a load.

If you need photos of the engine mount, I can provide them.

--pakk

pakk

iTrader: (80)

Ok, I figured out the noise. It was a front wheel rubbing. Pain to figure out, but I got it.

I got a setup sheet question.
I think I understand how to adjust everything listed on the tc4 setup sheets except for the arm spacing. I don't understand what they mean with the 4 boxes and the check marks.

--pakk

solardragon

Pakk-its where the washer/spacer goes on the shaft that joins the a-arms to the car

Foxxrocket- on what surface are you running that setup?

Foxxrocket

asphalt.

LJae

iTrader: (4)

I picked up a BMI TC4 from our classies and have a few questions.

1. Is the upper and lower deck interchangeable with the FT TC4 upper and lower? Can I mix them up, like BMI top with FT tc4 bottom and vice versa.

Yes you can mix them but you won't be able to use the center ae stiffener brace.

2. Engine mount. There is a different style mount that I like, but it is a little weird. It is like something is missing. The mounting of the motor is in a way that makes me have to put the pinion on the very edge of the shaft. The set screw litterally can not go any further out. It works, I just don't like it.

You maybe one of the few that got a bmi motor mount. You can switch it out to an ae mount if you have the bearing holder for the drive shaft. Bmi made it to move the motor forward a bit that's why the pinion have little bite on the motor shaft. I have not had an issue with mine.

3. This may or may not have to do with the BMI chassis. It probably doesn't to be honest. When I go left, it makes a noise. When it makes this noise, it does not turn as sharp as it should. This does not happen at very low speeds, but you doesn't have to go insanely fast to make it do it. As I look down at the car, I can't see anything. To me it sounds like the rear diff. I don't think it is the front because it has a one way in front. It makes a sort of rubbing vibrating noise. I know this is tough to fix over the net, but if anyone has any ideas, I'm open to them. It also will not do it when I am holding the car in the air, so there has to be a load.

If you need photos of the engine mount, I can provide them.

Please send a pic just to make sure.
--pakk

pakk

iTrader: (80)