DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Finally a question about the TC4: How do you guys shim your pinion and ring gears in the gearbox? How much lash is the right amount?

fathead

I normally shim it using the shims on the outdrives, and so I can just barely feel the tick tick an the crown wheel while I hold the pinion still, might be able to run it looser for stock but I run mod so I want the play to be minimal

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

For stock, I only put one shim behind the pinion, and shim the ring gear enough to leave the smallest visible play between the gears. I run the black ring gears for stock only...
For mod, I put two shims behind the pinion, and shim the ring gear tight enough just to feel the play, but not enough to visibly see it... I run my tc4 HV 4.5t & Ntc3 shimmed like that with the delrin gearset only: no failure so far...

andrep6810

I am looking for a BMI Carbon chassis for the tc3. New, please contact me if anyone has one available. Please text @954.470.5662 or email me [email protected]

fasteddie48

hey guys, first post lol. Does anyone else chew up the inside edges of their VTA tires? I have about 5 runs with this car and the inside 1/3 of the tire is just about gone and the car pushes like a dump truck. Its Stock as far as i know minus blue springs in front, green in rear and 30wt shock oil. Is this the norm or am i doing something wrong? Thanks!

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

I've got greens in front/blues in back. Haven't raced it like that, thou. Also, sounds like you have to much camber.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like you had too much negative camber on the fronts unless you are running on a very abrasive surface. Also running a spool can wear out fronts faster.

Depending on who glues vta tires, the tire can end up having a bit of camber. To put it another way, the outside edge ends up smaller than the inside edge. In that case you might want to run less camber when the tires are new to have a better tire contact patch.

fasteddie48

Im gonna do some checking but i believe the camber links on the car are stock length. The inside edge has almost no tread left to the point that the sidewall of the tire is higher than the tread lol. i was just wondering if this is a characteristic of the car, or bad setup. Im thinking the push has something to do with this

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I've stopped running softer rear suspension than front , and the push went away... Either the same springs front and rear or slightly softer fronts...

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Ok folks, I know you guys did not believe me when I said it was better to use non steel screws on and around your 17.5t motors for better performance, but now Fantom racing is selling aluminum screw kits& backplates for their new FR-1 motors, claiming it will increase torque and speed +3Nm and 500Rpm respectively, by reducing the magnetic drag on the Rotor... I guess now you will believe ! BERT goes further though, by eliminating all steel components around the motor period: backplate screws, motor mount screws, motor&esc fan screws, spur gear screws and layshafts, gear case screws, chassis brace screws, etc...... BERT is always right, years before anybody else !!! LoL.....

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

fasteddie48 I hope this helps!!!

Does anyone else chew up the inside edges of their VTA tires? I have about 5 runs with this car and the inside 1/3 of the tire is just about gone

We need a bit more info.

Are you racing on asphalt? If so tire wear is higher.

Track temperature? The higher the temp the higher the wear.

Diff or spooler in the front? As IndyRC_Racer said with a spooler will wear faster.

Tires NORMALLY wear on the inner 1/3 more, reason >>> They just do.


===

the car pushes like a dump truck

All of the below can cause push. AND a lot more can cause push!!!!

Can be the body, my first body was a (don't know brand, was given to me) 70 Mustang body <<< pushed like a dump truck. 2nd body was a Parma 70 Cuda body, WAY better than the Mustang, now have a HPI Challenger body. The HPI has been the best.


camber links on the car are stock length

As 1spunspur said >>> you may have to much camber.

The info in A manual is to provide a start from place. Camber needs to be set per wheel per side with all of your electrics in place. You will need a camber gauge to do this. The "Norm" is a -1 degree.


Its Stock as far as i know minus blue springs in front, green in rear

The "Norm" (asphalt) is Blue front and rear OR Blue front and Silver rear. <<< These are variable, depends on the track your racing on.


30wt shock oil

Depending on the track and air/track temperature, you can be one of three.

1. To light
2. Just right
3. To heavy

Number 1 can be to light front only. And number 3 can be to heavy in the rear.


Is this the norm or am i doing something wrong?

I race sealed or soda treated asphalt, 3 or 4 weekends. New fronts every 3 or 4 weeks, rears every 5 or 6 weeks.

Here is my TC4 VTA setup.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/ass..._VTA201509.pdf

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

I ran silvers in the front and greens in the back. With blues being stiffer than silvers, it might be pushy. Also, VTA front tires wear about twice as fast as rears in most circumstances.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

It's so great that when you buy one of their "TEAM EDITION" motor the alm parts don't come with the motor. So, looks to me they don't used what they say is better. So, it's a scam.

patorz31

+3Nm um ok so these screws will increase the torque that much.... LOL
The LENZ effect is still there with the Aluminium parts. The screws are stationary and the magnetic field rotates around in the stator so the aluminium screws will still be effected by the field.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Please don't feed the bears.