300LikesTeam Associated TC4
10-16-2015, 06:39 AM
Mopar bodies
You have two options that I know of.
Parma 70 hemi cuda
and
HPI challenger
I have both, the HPI is an mopar authorized body, the parma isn't.
The HPI has a GREAT sticker sheet.
===
THE mopar body to have IF you can find one is the HPI CUDA body.
You have two options that I know of.
Parma 70 hemi cuda
and
HPI challenger
I have both, the HPI is an mopar authorized body, the parma isn't.
The HPI has a GREAT sticker sheet.
===
THE mopar body to have IF you can find one is the HPI CUDA body.
10-16-2015, 06:39 AM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
HPI makes a better looking Cuda #17510, but they seem to be hard to find, HPI Challenger #105106 is easier to locate. http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/105106
Pegasus makes Cuda #pgh4002, but I have never seen them
Go Here for full list of VTA legal bodies http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/
10-20-2015, 08:52 AM
Four days without a post?? Someone is falling down on the job!
With the talk of a "TC7" being release soon and with the ROAR Nats car using TC4 rear arms, is anyone looking to put a TC6.1/.2 front end onto a TC. chassis?
Anyone come up with any good ideas to improve the action of the TC4 rear diff?
(THAT should fire up a discussion!)
With the talk of a "TC7" being release soon and with the ROAR Nats car using TC4 rear arms, is anyone looking to put a TC6.1/.2 front end onto a TC. chassis?
Anyone come up with any good ideas to improve the action of the TC4 rear diff?
(THAT should fire up a discussion!)
10-20-2015, 10:47 AM
Working off the B44.3 diff.
1) the case and cover will have holes (i don't really mind since its metal gears and all the belt cars have their gears exposed anyway...
2) the pinion isn't held in by anything but bench testing I think it will work fine just floating there. It's so tight to the gear diff housing its not falling out...
3) the outdrives are too long to allow for suspension travel and the slot for the CV's arent deep enough either. This is my next modification to cut them down and bring the slot in... (edit: after putting the rear suspension back together I think the CV slots are deep enough just need to cut/grind the outdrive length down... easy)
It's a decent amount of work but I did all this with a dremel cutting disc and an end mill bit.
Last edited by AM03GT; 10-20-2015 at 12:29 PM.
10-20-2015, 10:49 AM
last pic with the gear box cover on...
10-20-2015, 11:45 AM
Four days without a post?? Someone is falling down on the job!
With the talk of a "TC7" being release soon and with the ROAR Nats car using TC4 rear arms, is anyone looking to put a TC6.1/.2 front end onto a TC. chassis?
Anyone come up with any good ideas to improve the action of the TC4 rear diff?
(THAT should fire up a discussion!)
With the talk of a "TC7" being release soon and with the ROAR Nats car using TC4 rear arms, is anyone looking to put a TC6.1/.2 front end onto a TC. chassis?
Anyone come up with any good ideas to improve the action of the TC4 rear diff?
(THAT should fire up a discussion!)
10-20-2015, 03:09 PM
A piece of tape can cover these holes nicely.... Alot of dremeling involved, but it seems to fit.....
10-20-2015, 03:22 PM
10-20-2015, 04:52 PM
Funny you mentioned that. I asked Rick to see if he could cut me a chassis for his prototype with holes for 6.2 Suspension mounts on it. I wanted to try and make one with the TC7 arms that will be coming out shortly. I race VTA and USGT with mine and I think a lower roll center would be better, I don't feel like paying someone to mill my TC4 mounts when the 6.2 mounts would do it and give more adjustability.
10-25-2015, 01:11 PM
For the tub tc4 racers: battery strap+screws and pins= 14grams.
Best to use tape....3M 890, etc..... Cheers... My car is at 1362 grams now....
Best to use tape....3M 890, etc..... Cheers... My car is at 1362 grams now....
10-25-2015, 06:17 PM
FWIW...
I've never seen a battery fly out of any tub chassis car when properly using the stock battery bar/strap. On the other hand, I've seen plenty of batteries fly out of cars when using tape.
I would rather be a few grams heavier and be confident my battery will stay in my tub chassis car, especially if I was running on a track with hard barriers or in a class with a lot of accidents.
I've never seen a battery fly out of any tub chassis car when properly using the stock battery bar/strap. On the other hand, I've seen plenty of batteries fly out of cars when using tape.
I would rather be a few grams heavier and be confident my battery will stay in my tub chassis car, especially if I was running on a track with hard barriers or in a class with a lot of accidents.
10-26-2015, 12:44 PM
If anyone is interested i will be posting my tc4 forsale with modded dc4 conversion and many options on it in the next few days. Pm me if interested.
10-26-2015, 03:40 PM
If you want to be in the Amain, then losing 14grams high up is one of the many things you'll have to do..... The strap is very good for bashing, not racing... I've raced with the strap, and kept traction rolling at slow speeds, but now I can attack the corners faster....
10-26-2015, 04:16 PM
Dude stop and get yourself drug tested please!
10-26-2015, 04:21 PM
If you want to be in the Amain, then losing 14grams high up is one of the many things you'll have to do..... The strap is very good for bashing, not racing... I've raced with the strap, and kept traction rolling at slow speeds, but now I can attack the corners faster....