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Old 11-06-2004, 10:05 AM   #1366
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I also have been running my TC4 for a couple of weeks now. I put it together and didn't have to shim anything. the car has less play than my FTTC3 did. The car is verry fast out of the box. should handle better with swaybars and the carbon kit. I just got finished installing the cabon kit but haven't had a chance to run it yet. The only problem mine had "out of the box" was 2 bent outer hinge pins. and that was nothing that teh TC3 ones couldn't replace! All and all I feel the car is a good upgrade on the TC3. my TC3 one way even went right in without any problems...
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Old 11-06-2004, 12:01 PM   #1367
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Ok. I can see that alot of people are not reading far enough back so I'll post this again....

Some of the first production TC4 kits DID have some parts in them that might be defective. These slipped through our QC dept. and that is being handled now. We went through ALL the boxes, kits (that weren't shipped), and packaged parts and pulled all the parts to replace them with the correct parts. As far as I know, the only suspect parts are the diff gears and the arm mounts....diff gears being too thick and the 'ball socket' in the arm mount being a little oversized.

If you feel you have a defective part, please call Associated at 714.850.9342 x124 and talk to Don. He is authorized to send out replacement parts, if necessary. You will, however, need your receipt of purchase.

Newer versions of cars SHOULD NOT have these problems. There will, however, still be parts & cars on the shelves that have not been fixed.

If you have any questions, call AE or PM me....I'll do what I can to help.
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Old 11-06-2004, 01:34 PM   #1368
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Where are people getting these from please?
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Old 11-06-2004, 02:13 PM   #1369
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I got mine form SoCal last week. I don't know if they have anymore. www.socalrc.com
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Old 11-06-2004, 04:02 PM   #1370
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The only defective parts on my TC4 were the braces, if you could call them that. Not enough R&D or just the mold.

They needed to be customized to let the CVD pins spin unobstructed with the outdrives as per the included the update, and then there were a few screws without hex indents.

I used as many of the FT aluminum screws instead and will save any parts I will never use on the TC4 for the TC3 Rally Impreza (Summer Rat).

To lower the roll center I removed 2 of the thinnest shims from each of the arm mounts. Did I do this correctly? or do I need to maintain a certain number across the whole chassis to maintain proper dive/kick up?

front+rear= x or
front=separate number
rear=separate number

thanks.
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Old 11-06-2004, 05:17 PM   #1371
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I'll give Don a call Monday, Thanks
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Old 11-06-2004, 08:36 PM   #1372
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Joe,(last page) you could probabally find the rear TC4 shocktowers at Ultimate Hobbies. I don't believe that the carbon towers are avalilable for single purchase yet, but you could probabally pick up the plastic one. Also note, that you will need some form of rear camber link mounting location. Either the TC4 rear chassis braces, or just rigging something up.

Jay, no SoCal Grand Prix? So far, it's been quite a lot of fun...

Tony, no SoCal Grand Prix?
Also, I have noticed that even with the carbon parts on my car, they still have a considerable amount of flex in them. Mainly the shocktowers. Is this part of the design? Or do they just flex because of the material used? Basically, should I be worried about it?

Boomer, when are you going to be out at the track next?(Other than tomorrow)
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Old 11-06-2004, 08:53 PM   #1373
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:25 PM   #1374
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Quote:
Originally posted by bubbles
Jay, no SoCal Grand Prix? So far, it's been quite a lot of fun...

Nope I couldn't race this year because I had to go to my buddies wedding... I tried to bail on it but there was NO way I could get out of it... Dang... I wanted to run my TC4 too...
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:41 PM   #1375
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I ran the car for the first time today. It ran very well, for the first 3 minutes of each run. After 3 minutes the diff (mainly rear diff) would overheat and bind, causing the car to become loose. I plan on machining the diff gears to take some material out of the center section, hopefully this will stop this from occuring. I believe what happens is that since the gear is too thick, it gradually heats up to the point that it causes too much friction between the plastic of the diff gear and the diff rings, and this makes the diff tighten. I was using the IRS lite-drives (aluminum), and they would come off the track warm.

For the first 3 minutes though, the car ran awesome. I made a front swaybar using Kraig's suggestion, and it worked fairly well. I had to trim the long RPM ballcups slightly at the bottom, and since this is near impossible to do making a straight cut, the bullcups were not perfectly verticle, and I had to bend the swaybar a little to fit. I also reamed a hole in the back of the ballcup to allow the excess swaybar to poke through.

My setup was pretty similar to Eric Desrosiers, except for lighter oil, and I used the .025" shims under the roll center blocks, along with one shim under the ballstuds, and an O block in the rear for less toe with the 3 degree toe block.

The car did develop a lot of play after a few runs, even with RPM ballcups. This was especially noticeable in the steering. Using 28mm foams, I had to dremel part of the steering blocks, and even then when using the outer hole in the steering blocks, the wheels rubbed on the ballcups.

Josh
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:05 PM   #1376
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Quote:
Originally posted by bubbles
Boomer, when are you going to be out at the track next?(Other than tomorrow)
Ummm, tomorrow to finish up the GP. . .

Hopefully next week and will have the TC4 with the proto Hellion 190 body on it! Sweet looking body, no?

BTW - your car was looking sweet. Very controllable, very predictable, very fast. I was very impressed.
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:30 PM   #1377
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:31 PM   #1378
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Default Re: It`s done

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Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Have a look....
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:33 PM   #1379
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:34 PM   #1380
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