Ralph289

iTrader: (5)

Nice job ! any idea what the weight was for the car ready to run ?

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

Thanks definitely not as clean as if someone who has access to a mill it was all done by dremel but everything drives true and straight. race ready the car is dead center on my tweak station.

I'll try to get a "race ready" weight tonight.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

What do you think of milling down the center spine and outer, vertical lip of the tub. I'd think that would increase flex the most. 3 mm would be a good start.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

just my opinion...
A little flex will calm the car down but too much especially along the chassis is not desirable. The shaft is not as forgiving as belts along the chassis and you don't want a hard hit to be able to put too much stress through the drivetrain and possible flexing the shaft.

I did a lot of the cutting all at once so its hard to say what each section or amount does for handling but I do know that cutting the inner cross bar of the camber link mounts makes a pretty big difference on its own.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I would think that having too much flex in a shaft-drive car would result in more tendency to torque-steer. I don't know how much, though, and running 17.5 you don't have much torque anyway.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

If it bends too much longitudinally the main shaft will bind in the cups and snappo. Wonder if I should leave that center spine alone.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

No need to cut more than the camber mounts... Shock work will get you more positive results, and if you want to lose weight, changing the screws is the way to go....

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

i've already done the AL screws, wanted to drop weight especially around the perimeter of the car

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I see...

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

torque steer is non-existent in this case especially running VTA with 25.5 motors...

car ready to run weighs in at 1509g. Battery pack 294g for VTA still need 41g to meet USVTA spec
This is with a piece of balance brass I already have on the car which is 13g and a clip-on heatsink and fan on the motor which is 18g. 80% or so of my hardware is stainless steel which is probably worth a few grams in weight over an aluminum or titanium screw setup.



fresh pics

Ralph289

iTrader: (5)

Guess you had the tires on the roof ? Don't see them on the car in the picture. Looks good.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

Thanks chassis was sitting on the 4 vta mou Ted wheels/tires.

gooba

iTrader: (5)

You guys drinking the B5m Kool-Aid? I personally will never and have never swiss cheesed a chassis. a shaft drive chassis that flexes when you Accelerate seems like it would be very unpredictable especially in a high power application

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I put all my drilled pistons in my cars... I used a very small 5/64" or 3/32" drill bit to make holes a little smaller than the AE #2 piston holes... I made the holes in a cross pattern until I reached eight holes . The idea is to have the whole face of the piston full of holes to stop the crazy AE shock pack and rebound that is not needed in on road... Now the size of the holes can vary, but I like the full grid of holes better than a few holes...

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Reducing wheel play, front and rear, will seriously improve performance.... Lots of meticulous work needed to achieve minimal play though....