beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

I always tighten the inner screw all the way down first, then the spring clamp screw until it is snugged down good just about the way the instructions would say to do, but I never actually measure how many turns "loose" it is.

Only times I've had problems I think is when I made some kind of mistake getting the gear mesh correct. 64 pitch needs to be very precise. You can also check that the cam is fastened tightly to the motor with the correct length screws and push the motor into the mount while you are tightening to make sure you've removed any play.

gooba

iTrader: (5)

On the bearing question I will agree with bert Pulling the seals off the stock bearings and cleaning the grease out and re oiling with good oil( I use trinity) makes a tremendous difference in the freeness of the driveline. If money is no object acer ceramics are in my opinion the best bearings you can buy. Combined with shaft drive good bearings will make belt car owners hate you.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

You'll be able to gear a bit taller after taking out the bearing seals...
Desert, even the motor cam spring retains a little bit of magnetism.... I can't get a titanium spring...lol... Maybe a brass spring will do... It will be hard to find a substitute...
To tell the truth guys, I wanted to find all the tc4 springs in titanium: shock springs, diff spring, servo saver spring,etc... A good way to shave another 30gram, but nobody makes them...
There should be NO steel parts in the tc4...

tc4basher

Anyone have experience to share with GPM aluminum diff gears? I'm considering getting these for my speed run car but I've had some bad experiences in the past with the fitment of some other GPM parts.

GPM seems to be the only brand making metal diff gears for TC4 from my research.

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Have had a GREAT run with a Losi XXX-S in VTA on asphalt (sealed and soda treated).

Feel like it's time to try VTA with my TC4 Club. Have been racing the TC4 in 13.5 spec and mod classes.

Who has a good base start from setup for VTA.

===

Sealed asphalt > http://www.t3t4webservice.com/mann.html

Soda treated > http://www.t3t4webservice.com/qsl.html

drewbagel423

iTrader: (23)

The guy I got my TC4 from sent me both a tub and CF chassis. The cf one seems like a pain in the ass to work with, considering I have to get extra parts so that the battery doesn't slide out, and it's difficult to get to the motor bolts and change the spur gear.

Since I don't plan on racing, is it worth it for me to keep the cf chassis?

tbamsey

iTrader: (1)

Here was my last setup car was near perfect for me could put it anywhere

tmail55

iTrader: (61)

Thanks!!!

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

Anyone tried building their steel differentials backwards? Maybe this has been discussed before but I wanted to bring it up again since I just tried this yesterday.

Seems the plastic diffs always work smoother "out of the box" than the steel ones when no special treatment is done other than assembly per the instructions. I don't know why but now I think it is something to do with how putting the tension spring under the thrust bearing distributes the load.

So I pulled a couple of steel diffs apart yesterday and put them together the way you would assemble the plastic ones. I added a spare thrust washer under the retention nut on the short diff half so it wouldn't pull the nut down too far and damage the little white plastic "ears." The same diff, with the same parts worked much smoother than it did when assembled per the instructions for steel diffs.

Now I just hope it stays together and holds the spring tension properly with use. As a bonus, It's easier to remember which side of the car to make diff adjustments from. I typically use plastic in the back to save weight and steel up front for the durability.

THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=drewbagel423;14013137]The guy I got my TC4 from sent me both a tub and CF chassis. The cf one seems like a pain in the ass to work with, considering I have to get extra parts so that the battery doesn't slide out, and it's difficult to get to the motor bolts and change the spur gear.

Since I don't plan on racing, is it worth it for me to keep the cf chassis?

Is the carbon fiber chassis (FTTC4) in decent shape and complete. If so its worth good money. Guys are looking for them for parts or as complete cars. The motor mount alone is impossible to find. If you are just bashing the Tub chassis is just fine. Good luck have fun !!!!!

PS...I have a new assembled but never run FTTC4 (Factory Team TC4) as a shelf Queen !!!

what brakes

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=beemerfan;14013930]Anyone tried building their steel differentials backwards?


What do you mean when you say.....building the diff backwards?

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Turned out the Spur Gear wasn't tightly screwed in and had a wobble. Using just 2 screws to save weight wasn't the best idea. I got 4 on there now and had to adjust the torque on them to get the spur to spin straight and true.

I also don't think using metal screws into a plastic hub thru a plastic spur is a great idea either, too much room for compression of the plastic parts to throw fastener torque off. Plus stripping that plastic hub. Anyone use the aluminum hub for the spur, that's on ebay? Plus the added benefit of using blue loctite paste is so much easier than super glue as a threadlocker. And, if u have to heat up the screw to get it out, it won't warp the aluminum hub.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

I should have put "backwards" in quotes because it's not really a good way to describe it. What I meant was building the steel diffs the same as the plastic ones, with the thrust bearing assembly resting on top of the tension spring in the long half of the diff outdrives. The nut retainer then goes on the short side similar to the plastic ones, but there the nut retainer is molded right into the plastic. If you compare the assembly instructions for both types of diff, you can get a better understanding of it.

beemerfan

iTrader: (39)

I've never used the GPM brand common on eBay but I do have the IRS ones on my cars and it is definitely an improvement. I only use two screws on them too. Just have to be careful not to over tighten them even on the aluminum mount because it will still warp the spur gear a little.

drewbagel423

iTrader: (23)

Yep it's complete. What would a good sale price be for an FTTC4 roller? How much of a difference does the carbon fiber chassis make for racing, is it just weight savings?