Neil

I built a TC3 last year and I feel (with the exception of the ball studs) my TC4 went together better. The car is laid out better. I hope when the graphite kit comes availible they smoothed the edges more. But you have to take into account the car is only 200 bucks. Throw out the instructions for diff adjustment and adjust them by "feel". As for those ball studs thats just low quality control. Nothing major I just had to dig out the flashing with my hobby knife.

.02

Speedie

Neil, I know this isnt the right place to ask but how did you mod your Quasar Pro? At least its talk about an AE product.

Boomer

Wow - I'm surprised to hear all the problems.

I just finished building mine and am going to tear much of it down again in order to put in all the pretty blue aluminum I picked up for it (thanks Bubbles!)

I truly had only one problem with it - that being the front diff and that was quickly solved as per suggestions found on this thread.

I thought it was far better quality than the TC3 when I first purchased it way back when. I still think so. Things just fit together better.

The ONE modification that I had to make was actually documented in the supplement - and it wasn't serious.

hmmmm.

Speedo

My car is almost together. The shocks are sitting right now with the air rising out of them, then I'll be just about finished.

The problems I encountered were:

Diff gears too thick, and diffs must be set very tight in order not to slip.
Drivetrain needed work when using IRS lite-drives, although with the stock plastic outdrives it is free.
Stock plastic outdrives do not work for mod racing
Lots of slop in the suspension
Ballstuds very low quality, causing suspension to bind. I had to sand slightly and polish each one using a dremel.
Countersunk screws on rear of car hang below chassis and scrape. I had to sand and polish, now they won't catch, but they aren't flush.
Sloppy steering, although the new rack is much better than the TC3.
Diff springs were bent, one would not fit into outdrive.
Servo saver could not be loosened enough to allow servo saver function without scraping chassis.
Ballstuds easily strip (found fix, see below)

That pretty much covers it. Tomorrow will be the first time I run the car, so hopefully it will have been worthwhile to go through all that.

As far as the ballstuds, they strip very easily when using a 5/64" driver. 5/64" is equal to 1.98mm, so I find using a 2mm driver is much better, and fits the ballstuds much better.

Josh

Neil

Off

On

I got the idea from a guy on here that changed the color of his lrp charger. He showed me where to go to get the lcd and gave me some pointers on how to hook it up. Alot of chargers use either a 16x2 line lcd or a 16x1 line lcd. I've been thinking about changing the color soon because the lcds are so cheap.


http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/index-std.html

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

the NTC3 bumper on it. So many TC3 racers can't see the point in buying a TC4 and now more so after handling it. Oh boy....

Boomer, your TC4 did not have large amounts of play per building instructions or did you shim everything?

Speedie

Sweet Niel. Here is mine, thanks for the link.

Bob Nilsen

iTrader: (1)

Here's the list I had of build issues:

http://www.glasselevator.net/temp/TC4_build.doc

Also... check out the black plastic debris in the inside of my diff after a few runs (attachment photo).

Looks to me like this rubs sometimes on the outdrive... so I dremeled my gear down a bit to hopefully lessen this effect.

RAP66

iTrader: (1)

I got the car 2 weeks ago and going through this thread I'm also suprised about all the problems people are finding.... This is my 4th associated TC car and I didnt have any problems putting it together. I didnt even "blueprint" the drive train like I did my TC3 because I wanted to see how it was as a bone stock build.

I ran it last week at a local track, although I only got a few laps until someone (NOOB) turned on his radio and cause my car to turn into the drivers stand (killed a new servo & front diff). The stock setting is very nice.

I was running: s-27 front, s-22 rear
battery forward
front shox 60wt #2 piston, rear shox 40wt #2 piston
D5 9x2 flat wire geared 72/18

diffs set a bit loose (backed out about 1.5-2.5turns from bottom)

as long as I was on the line the the car was very stable and turned great!!

- I even ordered the parts to upgrade my TC3 to the new goodies...

hobbipro

iTrader: (23)

I recently got my TC4 together and ran it the other day, all I can say is that its very fast, has great excelleration, and handles great out of the box, add some sway bars and I'll be set. I think this will be a great club racer. I cant complain too much since it was $189, I'm use to spending $300 for a TC!
I would like to add I too was hit by the diff bug and melted a rear diff. It was tight to begin with, but I fugured it may work itself out, nope! Tower carries the light diff kits for $18 and they now include ball bearings, the diffs work like there supposed to, nice and smooth. I was able to save enough diff parts to make a spool. Parts fit is much better than the old TC3 which required hand fitting of all the suspension pieces, but associated may have added a little too much play. I think the FT will have all the buggs worked out by then. Personally I've never owned a TC that didnt have a few issues at first, it all seems to work out in the end, hopefully Tony is taking notes and giving this feedback to Associated.

lastplace

Stupid question: Which hole in the shock tower is 1st?

Troubled

Outside,The only stupid question is the never asked. You must not be affraid to ask

Neil

Im running on the outermost hole on the shocktower.

Nella-Nobrob

Guys,
Did anyone tried using SQUARE BRAND diff outdrive in ur TC4? Will this long last running mod? I just installed mine with this and it's a lot better than the stock outdrive in terms of binding. I haven't run it yet as I just finish doing the assembly. Need ur inputs guys.

Boomer

It had a bit of play but far less than my FTTC3. No shimming.