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Old 01-17-2015, 04:09 AM   #13381
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Looks like you would need to use the "Club" 31019 input bearing bit to use the "Club" motor mount.
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Old 01-17-2015, 06:39 AM   #13382
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Originally Posted by tmail55 View Post
Looking at the 31020 "Club" motor mount for use on a TC4FT. Can the side part be cut off to just use the motor adjustment part? There would still be two screws to mount this with. Do the mount screws placement match the FT mounts.

Looking at a work around for a FT style chassis. <<< Don't have one just looking to assist.
Hey Terrance !!
Not enough chassis to mount with just the 2 screws, nothing lines up, you need to enlarge to motor opening and drill a a couple new holes for the motor mount and center shaft bearing support.u

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Old 01-17-2015, 04:29 PM   #13383
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Hey Terrance !!
Not enough chassis to mount with just the 2 screws, nothing lines up, you need to enlarge to motor opening and drill a a couple new holes for the motor mount and center shaft bearing support.u

Greg
THANKS!!!

did see that the FT motor mount also mounts to the top plate.

Was hoping this would be a good motor mount option.
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:34 PM   #13384
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Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
BIGBULL,
The person who made this prototype is considering producing these. I have not been given permission to discuss them, nor do I want to put words in their mouth. However, they do follow this forum and might contact you.
I just got back from Boston so I'm a bit punchy. The situation is that although the original motor mount is more available it really should only be used with the tub chassis. After several rounds of testing, it turns out that although my new chassis will accept either the stock or FT mount, it becomes more complicated due to the bearing carrier for the spur/shaft bearing being separate. It requires extra parts and since the motor and the spur are mounted independently, it creates gear mesh issues when the chassis flexes. The FT mount addresses this but it's both a pain to work with and hard to find. This is why I have decided to design a new motor mount that is similar to the FT mount but inverts the adjustment slot to the top, making it much easier to adjust gear mesh. On top of that, the car was much better performing without the side braces so those tabs are being removed from the design too. I am also going to be testing a reversal of the layout too which should deal with motor torque better. There is actually a bunch of things I am revising from the original chassis I posted. Fully adjustable battery retainers that accommodate both standard and shorty LiPos being just one of them.

Stay tuned...
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Old 01-17-2015, 04:42 PM   #13385
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Originally Posted by YoDog View Post
I just got back from Boston so I'm a bit punchy. The situation is that although the original motor mount is more available it really should only be used with the tub chassis. After several rounds of testing, it turns out that although my new chassis will accept either the stock or FT mount, it becomes more complicated due to the bearing carrier for the spur/shaft bearing being separate. It requires extra parts and since the motor and the spur are mounted independently, it creates gear mesh issues when the chassis flexes. The FT mount addresses this but it's both a pain to work with and hard to find. This is why I have decided to design a new motor mount that is similar to the FT mount but inverts the adjustment slot to the top, making it much easier to adjust gear mesh. On top of that, the car was much better performing without the side braces so those tabs are being removed from the design too. I am also going to be testing a reversal of the layout too which should deal with motor torque better. There is actually a bunch of things I am revising from the original chassis I posted. Fully adjustable battery retainers that accommodate both standard and shorty LiPos being just one of them.

Stay tuned...

Cant wait to see this next time out at TQ!!!!
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Old 01-18-2015, 07:52 AM   #13386
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Now the word is out. Thanks for sharing, Rick. Ran my new chassis for the first time at The Rug at King R/C yesterday. I have the stock Associated tub chassis' motor mount on mine. One thing that I noted was that I had to change from 33/55 to 36/60 to keep the same ratio as the gears wouldn't mesh. The car felt more planted AND had more steering than the tub. Thanks to Rick for making this chassis and proving to me that a TC4 is still a very competitive chassis for USVTA.
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Old 01-20-2015, 06:18 PM   #13387
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My club runs a Sportsman class with 21.5 motors, blinky ESC, sedan slicks and a more scale-like sport body. I ran my TC4 Club Racer last Sunday basically box stock with a Reedy motor and Hobbyking Zippy 4000mah 25C lipo pack. I choose this pack because it has the bumps on the bottom that fit this chassis like a glove. I qualified 2nd for the A-main and finished in this position at the horn. All good so far.

I want to use my SMC rectangular lipo packs, so tonight I used a Dremel to grind off the small webbing in the battery tray. I'm now wondering if this might weaken the chassis or cause too much flex. Has anyone done this and experienced any issues?
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:43 PM   #13388
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As long as you as you just sand down the little nubs you won't have any problems. They aren't structural enough to cause any flex.
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:28 AM   #13389
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As long as you as you just sand down the little nubs you won't have any problems. They aren't structural enough to cause any flex.
All I removed was the tiny webbing in the battery tray designed for the old school NiCad/NiMH packs.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:21 PM   #13390
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How come I don't see anyone using the outer two positions of the camber link mount? Since it increases negative camber gain as the suspension compresses,wouldn't that allow you to run less static camber at normal ride height? More camber gain would help on tight tracks? Plus with less static camber, theres theoretically a larger contact patch when accelerating, and less tire wear on the inner edge?
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:21 PM   #13391
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I use them on the front of my car all the time and on the rear when we run asphalt to get more steering. on carpet my car needs more out of corner steering so a longer link helps that.
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Old 01-23-2015, 07:49 AM   #13392
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This is why I have decided to design a new motor mount that is similar to the FT mount but inverts the adjustment slot to the top, making it much easier to adjust gear mesh....


cough b44 cough
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Old 01-24-2015, 05:45 AM   #13393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorTruck View Post
How come I don't see anyone using the outer two positions of the camber link mount? Since it increases negative camber gain as the suspension compresses,wouldn't that allow you to run less static camber at normal ride height? More camber gain would help on tight tracks? Plus with less static camber, theres theoretically a larger contact patch when accelerating, and less tire wear on the inner edge?
Per TC4 manual >> Shortening the link (typically used on high grip and carpet) will raise the roll center and decrease grip.
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Old 01-26-2015, 10:50 AM   #13394
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Instead of searching through nearly 900 pages, does anyone know the different variations of the TC4 kit? All that is listed on AE's website now is the FT kit and the current Club Racer...what other variants were there?

Thanks-
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Old 01-26-2015, 10:50 AM   #13395
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Instead of searching through nearly 900 pages, does anyone know the different variations of the TC4 kit? All that is listed on AE's website now is the FT kit and the current Club Racer...what other variants were there?

Thanks-
Byrdman
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