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Old 11-04-2004, 10:37 PM   #1306
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kraig
For those of you waiting for the swaybar kits just take a long rpm ball cup and attach it to the swaybar end. Then you can feed a screw through the bottom of the arm into the cup. It works but not like the original parts.

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Any word on Hop Up's yet Kraig??
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Old 11-05-2004, 05:30 AM   #1307
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Ran my TC4 for the first time last night, ran great except for the Diff's. Tighten them up and back off a half turn and they are like a solid axle, I had to back them off almost a full turn and they still are not the greatest. i've been running a TC3 for years and never had this problem.

Is this the same Diff problem others are having?
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Old 11-05-2004, 05:34 AM   #1308
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I finished building my diffs this morning, used the same technique I did with my TC3 of sanding the contact side od the diff rings to make them a bit more grippy etc... I normally don't use the manual's suggested tightness and do it by feel. The diff should slip very slightly when given a good twist whie the axles are held. This is mush easier to di when its in the car.

The TC4 diff's I've done seem ok, not as goos as my steel TC3 ones I think but we'll see when I run them on Tuesday.

Andy
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Old 11-05-2004, 06:12 AM   #1309
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Are the diffs. used in the TC4 they same as the TC3? Other than the use of different materials
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Old 11-05-2004, 06:14 AM   #1310
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Yes, I think almost identical except for materials.
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Old 11-05-2004, 06:45 AM   #1311
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Default Plastic diffs

We had a discussion about the plastic diffs at the track this week. They use to come with bushings and seemed to work better. Seems as if the bearings in the diff are slightly too small and cause the diff action to be too tight. Using the bushings helped that fraction of an inch between the plates and balls, freeing up the diff action while still maintaining a tight diff.

Just a thought
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Old 11-05-2004, 06:51 AM   #1312
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That is absolutely the problem with the diffs. Our local shop called AE and they sent him the replacement gears. Went in the shop the other day and I had gears waiting on me. There is a difference in the gears for sure. Enough to see with the naked eye.

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Old 11-05-2004, 07:05 AM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally posted by lastplace
Ran my TC4 for the first time last night, ran great except for the Diff's. Tighten them up and back off a half turn and they are like a solid axle, I had to back them off almost a full turn and they still are not the greatest. i've been running a TC3 for years and never had this problem.

Is this the same Diff problem others are having?
Check out my post about the diffs on page 32 of this thread.
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Old 11-05-2004, 07:08 AM   #1314
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Just built up the steering rack/servo saver.

On mine if I back the servo saver screw off to make it loose enough to work it rubs on the chassis. Anyone else had this?

I was thinking on just shimming underneath it to boosting it up a mm or so.

Any thoughts?

Andy
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Old 11-05-2004, 07:19 AM   #1315
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Answering ym own question lol

I just tried putting 1 of the Wheelbase spacer shims (Sort of semi transparent plastic ones) betwee the rack the the cranks, slotted nicely into the the indentation the base of the black tube normally goes. Tightened it all up and set the servo saver and there is no rubbing at all, even if I push hard onto the steering rack to try to make it bind.
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Old 11-05-2004, 08:00 AM   #1316
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Default Wiring Electronics

I have my TC4 all build and had a question about "neat" wiring. I have an LRP Phaser and an LRP V7.1 and need to fit them nicely in my TC4. I am running my batterys with connectors and they are on the inside of the battery (near the driveshaft).

Anyone have any suggestions or pictures of their wiring schemes.

Should I run the Phaser on its regular bottom, flipped, turned, etc?

Want to keep the wiring as neat as possible and easily accessible. Any help would be appreciated.

Chirag
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Old 11-05-2004, 08:11 AM   #1317
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Thanks Brandon, I'll try it tonight

From page 32:
Many of you mentioned having trouble with the diffs. Here is what i have found with the composite diffs. Throughout the years AE has trained us to run the screw in and back it off 1/4 turn. Well, with the composite outdrives, if you tighten them down all the way, it flexes the plastic pieces and causes the binding or tightness that you are feeling. What I explain next will cure this as well.

Many people I talk to and also myself have had the problem where the diff (rear mainly) feels really good on the pit bench, but then as soon as you come off the race track it feels almost like a spool and the car tightens up half way through the run. Here is how to fix this. On the outdrives them selves where the molding is raised to hold the diff ring in place, file this down slightly but make sure it will still hold the ring in place. What actually happens is that when the diff gets hot, it contracts and starts rubbing on the diff gear itself. You can see the marking on the gear where it has happened, therefore making diff action very stiff during the race. When you file (or lightly dremel with the sanding tool) that piece down, that part of the outdrive no longer rubs the diff gear, and your diff stays smooth throughout the whole race, and you will definatly notice this on the driver's stand as well.
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Old 11-05-2004, 08:38 AM   #1318
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Just keep one thing in mind while wiring. NEAT may not always be practical, try to keep all your wire runs as short as possible but at the same time remember not to rub agains anything like a driveshaft or a belt in some cases, there basically is no perfect way to do it, just get it so it pleases you
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Old 11-05-2004, 09:06 AM   #1319
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here is a pic of your equipment in a tc3, should fit the same in a tc4
http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/rc10tc3_factory_team.htm
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Old 11-05-2004, 11:37 AM   #1320
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yeah i sat the 3 and 4 side by side and literally transferred it all over in one big piece just with new servo tape
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