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Old 10-26-2014, 12:06 AM   #13081
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@desert rat can u still get type r parts? I passed on a really cheap one locally cause losi parts are hard to come by here. Also on my car my setup is really good it's totally just a driver issue I try to push the corner to close to the boards to make a straighter chicane and clip the board whichs slows down my times. If I run clean thru that section every lap Id do just fine
You can still get parts for the Type R, but there are a few that are nearly dried up. The front driveshafts for one are all gone unless you have some luck. Other parts that are "consumables" like arms, hubs, caster blocks, steering blocks, and the like are available. I took advantage of clearance sales in the last year, cleaning out things like bulkheads for $0.10 (I never actually needed one). The only part I am afraid I wont be able to get anymore are the diff outdrives.
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Old 10-26-2014, 04:17 PM   #13082
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Very good week for the tc4, I hope to make it to the track soon to test my theories....... It should be fun, peace......
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Old 10-27-2014, 02:44 PM   #13083
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It might be a dumb question but has anybody tried one of those aluminum diff ring gears? I know they're unnecessary as you'll probably break the rest of the car before you break the plastic stocker but I was just curious if they even work.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:05 PM   #13084
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Hi Guys. How do you set the rear diff tightness on a TC4 club? I followed the AE instructions to go full tight then back off 1/2 turn and the car has a hard time turning. 180* turns are a pain it just won't dive into the turn, and is more of a lazy rim shot.

0* toe up front, 2* rear toe blocks.

So I back off the diff another 1/4 turn, for a grand total of 3/4 turn out from full tight, and it turns better but still worse than any other car on the track. When I bought the car used it had like 1 and 1/2 turns out from full tight, and the car pulled horribly to the left. And when you spun one rear tire by hand, the other turned in the opposite direction like an open diff should. Tighetned up to 1/2 turn out, no more pull to left and both rear tires turn in same direction by hand.

What do I do?
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:33 PM   #13085
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Hi Guys. How do you set the rear diff tightness on a TC4 club? I followed the AE instructions to go full tight then back off 1/2 turn and the car has a hard time turning. 180* turns are a pain it just won't dive into the turn, and is more of a lazy rim shot.

0* toe up front, 2* rear toe blocks.

So I back off the diff another 1/4 turn, for a grand total of 3/4 turn out from full tight, and it turns better but still worse than any other car on the track. When I bought the car used it had like 1 and 1/2 turns out from full tight, and the car pulled horribly to the left. And when you spun one rear tire by hand, the other turned in the opposite direction like an open diff should. Tighetned up to 1/2 turn out, no more pull to left and both rear tires turn in same direction by hand.

What do I do?
There is no set "tighten it until its locked, then back off a turn" rule, you tighten it until you don't think it will slip at a full-throttle blast. It's not like offroad where the diff can be tested against the slipper clutch, it only has to be tight enough just barely not slip under power.

I would loosen it until the car feels good, then make sure it spins the tires and not the diff when you gas it from a standing start.
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Old 10-27-2014, 04:52 PM   #13086
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Aluminum diff rings were really meant for the Ntc3, but the plastic is good enough for my Ntc3 and all my tc4's...
As far as diff tightness, I run mine loose to make the tires spin in opposite directions , but tight enough so I won't be able to turn the spur gear by hand while holding both rear tires. After setting it that way, I only tighten it from there a quarter turn at a time... If it feels too tight, I turn it back a quarter of a turn...
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Old 10-27-2014, 06:52 PM   #13087
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losi LCD for a JRX #3333

Are these what I need?

How will these work the ball ends are bigger than the TC4's.
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:24 PM   #13088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmail55 View Post
losi LCD for a JRX #3333

Are these what I need?

How will these work the ball ends are bigger than the TC4's.
The LOSA3333 will not work you will need the LOSA3344.. and they are very very... very...... hard to find.... you can find parst to build a set but even most of the stores that had spare parts to build the LCD's are out of stock... eBay has a few dog bones and axles now and then... but the LCD rebuild kit or center section is the one that will be a pain the butt to locate

Here are the part#'s if you want to build a set..
LOSA 3335 LCD rebuild kit
LOSA 3345 Axle
LOSA 3346 Dog bone
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Old 10-27-2014, 07:43 PM   #13089
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Those(losa3333) can only be used in tamiya mini m03/m05 front wheel drive cars to eliminate chatter..... You will still have to slim the ball ends down with a dremel........
They don't fit the tc4....
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losi LCD for a JRX #3333

Are these what I need?

How will these work the ball ends are bigger than the TC4's.
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:00 PM   #13090
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Anyone running this chassis in usgt? Im looking for set up ideas. Shock oil weight, shock locations, springs and what not. I don't wanna go through 870+ pages. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:23 PM   #13091
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I run mine in USGT. My setup is front ball diff, blue front springs,silver rear springs, outside hole on the arms, inside hole on the towers, and 35wt oil all around I believe. I also run the stiffest swaybars front and rear(I think black). Box stock club racer setup with the addition of sway bars is a pretty good starting point
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:26 PM   #13092
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@desert rat I've heard that for super high powered setups or drag racing the aluminum gear at least in the rear is a must but for regular racing is kind of silly
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Old 10-29-2014, 02:44 PM   #13093
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The last of BERT's upgrade suggestions would be to apply the "ZERO STEEL" rule to the tc4..... All steel parts should be changed to titanium or Aluminum, and they all should be hollow tubes!!! After that, BERT will be waiting for the Graphene revolution.....lol....

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-30-2014 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 10-29-2014, 03:39 PM   #13094
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Thanks gooba. That should get me started.
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Old 10-29-2014, 07:43 PM   #13095
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Hey all,
Just setting up a TC4 Club car (tub) and looking for a good starting FDR for 13.5T (~2500Kv) for biggish gym floor track.

Was running what I had, stock 72 and a 22 ( 8.18 ) but getting annihilated on the straights. How low FDR should I go for my motor? Current thinking is 5.5-6ish, maybe 69/30?
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