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Old 10-20-2014, 09:32 PM   #13036
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actually they said that the b44.3 diffs would fit but the input shafts would not work.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:40 PM   #13037
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I wanted to add a few more weight saving ideas here:
* use titanium axles in the rear...
* use titanium hinge pins...
* use titanium turnbuckles....
* change all screws to titanium or aluminum..........
Hopefully all these mods can help more tc4 racers make the Amain around the world......
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
On top of these upgrades, I added:
* make the 1380gram minimum weight with light lipo packs...
* use blitz gsf ultra light body(65g) vs pf lwt(91g)....
* use irs aluminum input shafts, ewhippler CF driveshaft, ceramic bearings...
* tweak your swaybars, and tweak your car with four scales only.
* make sure all electronics are flat on the chassis, and wires are tied down...
* use R1 wurks fan on your motor...
* always use a gforce supercapacitor on your esc...
* use a protek 160ss servo (0.05 sec/125oz torque)...
* Practice incessantly......
* gear your 17.5t(12.5mm rotor) 3.19fdr to 3.35fdr.......

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-29-2014 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:46 PM   #13038
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Personally, I think the AE engineers should have trimmed their B44.3 gear diffs enough to also fit the tc4, thereby knocking two birds with one stone while increasing sales...Racers would also need to purchase the tc6 input shafts to make the whole thing work...
Furthermore, AE could have also made some tc6.2 DCJ drives(#31632) available with 3/16" axles and thinner bones, so they too can brides in the tc4, but they also missed that opportunity...
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Originally Posted by jeff jenkins View Post
actually they said that the b44.3 diffs would fit but the input shafts would not work.

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-20-2014 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 10-20-2014, 11:42 PM   #13039
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FYI, there is no need for expensive and/or unneeded upgrades if you race a TC4 in USVTA. In fact you can use heavy bodies that are durable, be over-weight and still turn the fastest laps in qualifying.
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Old 10-21-2014, 06:30 AM   #13040
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The trick in VTA is to weigh all the bodies, and get the lightest one while compensating by adding weight to the chassis to make the minimum weight...
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FYI, there is no need for expensive and/or unneeded upgrades if you race a TC4 in USVTA. In fact you can use heavy bodies that are durable, be over-weight and still turn the fastest laps in qualifying.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:40 AM   #13041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
The trick in VTA is to weigh all the bodies, and get the lightest one while compensating by adding weight to the chassis to make the minimum weight...
I would say the real trick is to setup your VTA chassis to perform well with whatever body you prefer to run. I've seen many good drivers win A-mains at big events with the HPI '68 Camaro, which is not the lightest body out there. It also doesn't have the lowest center of gravity. Keep in mind that a VTA body with a higher center of gravity does require a slightly different setup to prevent extra chassis roll, but every modern TC chassis has the adjustments needed to make it work.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:52 AM   #13042
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Anyone who has been in any hobby for long enough will eventually fall into the trap of excessive spending on options and upgrades. The question in R/C racing that I've learned to ask myself is this option/upgrade really worth it? A good example is bearings. I've spent more on a complete set of ceramic bearings for a TC3 than the original TC3 kit cost. While they performed better than cheap bearings, they didn't make me an A-main driver (at the time). It was easier on my budget to use cheap bearings because it allowed me to spend the money I saved on replacement parts/tires/bodies/race entries. I could also afford to replace any bad/worn bearing more frequently when using less expensive bearings compared with the life of the ceramic bearings.

I've also purchased titanium axles/cvds in the past. They were lighter which is an advantage on drive-line/moving parts. However I didn't think that they would eventually need maintenance, and failed to purchase any replacement/rebuild parts. By the time I needed to replace the worn cvd bones, the company that produced them no longer made them. Since the cvd parts between the stub axle and cvd bone wasn't the same as the AE parts, I basically ended up with a paper weight (the stock cvd bones didn't fit properly on the titanium axles). I would rather be able to stock up on readily available affordable parts than not be able to finish a race day because my limited availability/cost prohibitive upgrade part failed (which I've seen happen to many racers at the track).

My list of 'upgrades' for a TC4 would include the following items...
- Rotary tool - which can be used to polish hinge pins & shock shafts
- Calipers - which can be used to measure camber links, droop, toe-in, etc.
- Sand paper/file - which can be used to remove material on moving plastic parts to prevent any binding
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:05 AM   #13043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
Anyone who has been in any hobby for long enough will eventually fall into the trap of excessive spending on options and upgrades. The question in R/C racing that I've learned to ask myself is this option/upgrade really worth it? A good example is bearings. I've spent more on a complete set of ceramic bearings for a TC3 than the original TC3 kit cost. While they performed better than cheap bearings, they didn't make me an A-main driver (at the time). It was easier on my budget to use cheap bearings because it allowed me to spend the money I saved on replacement parts/tires/bodies/race entries. I could also afford to replace any bad/worn bearing more frequently when using less expensive bearings compared with the life of the ceramic bearings.

I've also purchased titanium axles/cvds in the past. They were lighter which is an advantage on drive-line/moving parts. However I didn't think that they would eventually need maintenance, and failed to purchase any replacement/rebuild parts. By the time I needed to replace the worn cvd bones, the company that produced them no longer made them. Since the cvd parts between the stub axle and cvd bone wasn't the same as the AE parts, I basically ended up with a paper weight (the stock cvd bones didn't fit properly on the titanium axles). I would rather be able to stock up on readily available affordable parts than not be able to finish a race day because my limited availability/cost prohibitive upgrade part failed (which I've seen happen to many racers at the track).

My list of 'upgrades' for a TC4 would include the following items...
- Rotary tool - which can be used to polish hinge pins & shock shafts
- Calipers - which can be used to measure camber links, droop, toe-in, etc.
- Sand paper/file - which can be used to remove material on moving plastic parts to prevent any binding
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:06 AM   #13044
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I only list the upgrade possibilities to expand the tc4 racer's knowledge base, and by no means are all these upgrades absolutely necessary to win... I just want folks to be aware of the possibilities as more hopups come out...... Next after all might be a proper gear diff mod, but that's still up for debate...
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:23 AM   #13045
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We should just abandon the gear diff pipe dream and just build the ball diff correctly. Avid now makes a good thrust bearing to replace the stock assembly, and that gets you 99% there. Off road diffs may fit but they're made of steel, and I doubt there will be a significant performance advantage.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:41 AM   #13046
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I had major problems last year at the Scale Nats with my rear diff heating up due to a tight 180 right at the end of the main straight. The drive pins on the CVD bones would notch a set of plastic diff halfs in one run. I ended up switching to a steel diff to finish the weekend, but the car was better with the plastic. My solution so far has been to use the Avid thrust bearing along with a set of custom works #4382 drive blades. I opened up the slots in the diff halfs with 4 thin cutoff wheels stacked on a dremel arbor (approx .150" thick) and the blades fit right on the aluminum or plastic cvds with no issues. So far it's solved the problem, and the diff itself has been holding up great.
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:48 AM   #13047
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I use thick Amsoil synthetic polymeric grease(5%moly) on my outdrives.....
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Old 10-21-2014, 11:58 AM   #13048
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The cheap way to loose a lot of weight, is to use shorty packs. 100 gram saving in some cases... The TC3/4 can still win in the right hands.
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Old 10-21-2014, 12:10 PM   #13049
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There are still a lot of hop-ups/upgrades available for the TC3 & TC4 from aftermarket companies. However a lot of those items are hard to find new, if at all.

A good example is the IRRGANG (IRS) aluminum input shafts. I checked their current website/store and they are not listed. A quick ebay search found only (1) set for sale. While I do think this is a good part to upgrade, I wouldn't put it on a list of must haves because of the limited availability. Also since it is made of aluminum it will eventually wear out if you don't take care of your bearings.

I don't mind having a list of possible upgrades to make my car better, but I always prefer to buy new from reputable sources.

-----------

On a related note, I wish I had bought all the titanium & aluminum parts that Hardcore Racing made for the TC3. I'm not sure how good a titanium chassis would be for racing, but it would have made a beautiful shelf queen.
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Old 10-21-2014, 02:09 PM   #13050
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I would say the must haves would be a light lipo pack, light body(gsf), light electronics(esc,low prof servo,small rx), and a parma wide bumper....
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