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Old 10-06-2014, 10:04 PM   #12976
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Post a picture, so we can better assess the problem....
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:22 PM   #12977
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I'm not really sure what to post a picture of...

On the whole spur gear assembly (the only parts of the car directly attached to the spur) there are only 4 screws, 3 attached to the spur itself, and 1 in the end of the metal shaft, at the bottom of the drive cup (which is stripped). There's no possible was to get a dremel down there to remove the stripped screw, so I need to replace the entire assembly.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:32 PM   #12978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xen0ph0n View Post
I recently bought a TC4 to use for VTA. While trying to change the spur, I noticed that the little screw under the head of the drive shaft is stripped, so I can't remove the spur or any of the bearings.

I'm having trouble figuring out which parts to buy to replace the broken assembly. Unfortunately, it's looking like I'll need to buy an entire bearing and screw set for the car, as well as the input shafts and hardware. Is there anywhere that I can just buy a complete spur mount assembly?

Has anyone else had this screw arrive stripped?
If I'm understanding you correctly, the screw that is inside the drive cup (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31019/) is stripped and you can't remove the drive cup. I would suggest downloading the exploded parts diagram for the TC4 from AE here (http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...rawing_tc4.pdf).

The diagram will show you how the rear input shaft is assembled. You should be able to pull off any e-clips and disassemble the rear input shaft, which should allow you to at least change the spur gear.

I believe I've had this problem in the past. I think I ended up taking a dremel and cutting away the plastic input cup so I could gain access to the screw that holds it onto the drive shaft.

Worst case scenario you might have to buy a new rear input shaft (#3915) and the input cups (#31019).

Edit: If you purchased this vehicle new, I would suggest see if this defect is covered under warranty.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:31 AM   #12979
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Yep, that's the problem. Unfortunately, I've already dremel'ed away some parts of the chassis for lipo and a larger pinion, so having Associated warranty the whole car is a no-go, but I did email them about replacing the spur assembly. I ordered those parts, so I should be able to fix it myself anyway.
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Old 10-07-2014, 12:31 AM   #12980
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Indyracer is correct.... Make sure you use the right size hex on your new screw....
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Old 10-07-2014, 01:28 AM   #12981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xen0ph0n View Post
I'm not really sure what to post a picture of...

On the whole spur gear assembly (the only parts of the car directly attached to the spur) there are only 4 screws, 3 attached to the spur itself, and 1 in the end of the metal shaft, at the bottom of the drive cup (which is stripped). There's no possible was to get a dremel down there to remove the stripped screw, so I need to replace the entire assembly.
Can you drill the screw head away?
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Old 10-07-2014, 08:24 AM   #12982
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Typically when a button head hex screw is stripped, you will want to carefully dremel/cut a slot in the head of the screw. You can then use a standard tipped screw driver to remove the screw. You could also buy a stripped screw extractor bit, which might work better for removing the screw inside the input cup. A screw extractor would also work better on counter sunk screws, such as those in the bottom of the chassis.

In case you weren't aware, the TC4 uses standard/imperial screws. Most of the screws on the kit are either a 1/16" or 3/32" hex head, so I would suggest at least buying a quality hex driver in those sizes. The screws that secure the input cups on the drive shafts have a 1/16" hex button head with a 4/40 thread.

There are many brands of hex drivers available. Here is a link on Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...vers&search=Go). Team Associated sells their own hex driver set which includes all of the drivers needed to work on any of their cars (standard or metric). Here is a link (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXJTR0&P=ML).

Hope this info helps.
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Old 10-07-2014, 10:20 AM   #12983
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I have the correct sized tools, the screw was stripped on arrival. So no worries about stripping the new one. The only annoying part about this is cutting away the drive cup before accessing the screw.
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Old 10-07-2014, 03:30 PM   #12984
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You may still contact AE if you haven't butchered the drive cup yet. They may have you send in that part only and replace it. They are pretty good about things like that
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Old 10-07-2014, 07:39 PM   #12985
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It's been a couple of months since I've changed my spur, but I think that I recall that the center hole in my Robinson Racing 60t 48p spur will slip over the plastic drive cup that engages the driveshaft. A little late now, but for future reference.
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Old 10-08-2014, 12:26 PM   #12986
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I'm planning to build a new TC4 for VTA. I'm also ordering the steel outdrives and heavy duty CVD bones for it. What else should I change on the chassis and what parts should I stock as backups. I've been racing a modified TC6.1 in VTA, but it seems like the belt drive is not as efficient as the shaft drive with the heavier cars. I've been losing the races in the final few laps to a TC4 and it seems he has way more power at the end of the race. This will be my second TC4, but the first one was just for drifting. I never raced it. I sold it and have regretted that move ever since.
Bottom line, what do I need to do to make this car competitive? Do I really need the carbon arms and shock towers? Is there a way to reduce the rear toe in to 1 degree?
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:22 PM   #12987
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Greetings turtlehill, previously I invested in Acer's bearing set for the TC-3 &4. This was in an effort to free up the drivetrain. It's effective (pricey) due to bearing tolerances. In retrospect , an alternative was to clean and relube the kit bearings . And consider shimming where there is slop. Goodluck
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:12 PM   #12988
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@turtlehill you do not "need" anything to make the tc4 competitive that being said good upgrades are heavy duty front CVDS and dremeling the chassis to fit larger pinions and lipos. As far as bearings remove the seals clean out the grease relube with good bearing oil. I didn't reinstall the seals and my drivetrain is super smooth but you have to keep them cleaned. If you read back thru this thread there are tons of tips that will get you set VTA. I personally run a full carbon(not carbon fiber) car for handling purposes and a front ball diff as the losi lcds no longer exist and on a small track it handles better. Best advice I can give tho is get out and practice learn to tune your suspension and don't listen to anything Bert says. Also 2 degrees is the least you can go on rear toe
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:18 PM   #12989
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......I was waitin' for bertrandsv87 time chime in eventually(i don't know him and have yet to practice/race with him.).......
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:23 PM   #12990
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Ahahahah....Too funny for a response...lol..... But I still have the most hopped up tc4 to date...lol...
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