300LikesTeam Associated TC4
10-01-2014, 01:31 PM
I run the tub car, but the diggity design is much easier to make weight with light electronics, which is critical in spec classes... As far as necessary upgrades, I would recommend the IRS aluminum spool with Losi lcd drives, and a carbon driveshaft(ewhippler)... After that, all that's needed is a Parma wide bumper to protect your investment... Cheers....
10-02-2014, 10:02 AM
There are no more Losi LCD's and they will not be making any more.
On the upside, my steering mod in which I installed an aluminum TC3 steering rack worked great. The car even looks better for it. I think for Vegas I'll probably just show up with a somewhat harder suspension setup on the car and go from there. Buy two sets of the spec tires and glue the sidewalls on one set in case the grip gets too unmanageable... but they ran the same tire/sauce/carpet combo at the Mile High and the grip didn't get that insane. I don't recall rolling my car once at the Mile High.
On the upside, my steering mod in which I installed an aluminum TC3 steering rack worked great. The car even looks better for it. I think for Vegas I'll probably just show up with a somewhat harder suspension setup on the car and go from there. Buy two sets of the spec tires and glue the sidewalls on one set in case the grip gets too unmanageable... but they ran the same tire/sauce/carpet combo at the Mile High and the grip didn't get that insane. I don't recall rolling my car once at the Mile High.
10-02-2014, 10:57 AM
There are plenty lcd drives in Europe and Australia, just not in the US.... You will have to really search hard, but the idea that there is not even one left for sale in the whole world is incorrect.... The Lcd is the only real BERT solution to the tc4 front spool chatter issue, and should have been addressed by AE !!!
10-02-2014, 03:45 PM
It just occured to me that Bert is the Wile E Coyote of RC car racing. Bad ideas, poor execution, thinks the show is a dramatic reality TV when it's really slapstick comedy.
The answer to every problem or question is not parts you can't buy anymore and a massive front bumper.
The answer to every problem or question is not parts you can't buy anymore and a massive front bumper.
10-02-2014, 04:27 PM
Everything has a beginning and an end !!! Enjoy the lcd's while you still can !!! Don't worry about items being discontinued; they will all be eventually discontinued, but BERT'S solution is FOREVER !!!
10-02-2014, 05:26 PM
You can still find parts to build them up piece by piece if you know where to look in the states... there are a few online shops that still have the LCD rebuild kits, axles and dog bones in stock... just search via Part #
LOSA 3335 LCD rebuild kit
LOSA 3345 Axle
LOSA 3346 Dog bone
LOSA 3335 LCD rebuild kit
LOSA 3345 Axle
LOSA 3346 Dog bone
10-03-2014, 06:59 AM
For folks still running the TC4 and who are competitive, Are you still using the TUB chassis or have you switched to the Diggity chassis? AE Chassis?
What all conversions our there that are still available are worth exploring?
-Diggity
-AE
-ExoTeck
-Penguin
-Etc?
I'm seriously looking hard at that option and would really like to make a competitive race car from my TC4. I just hate to pour a bunch of $$ into it.
(But since I have spares between it and my TC3, I might as well)
-I happen to have the ASC 1way Part #: 1728, will this give me any advantage in VTA?
-Are people favoring a Spool in the F or R or utilizing diffs?
-presume the AE FT Shocks from my TC3 would be the best option?
-Are there different arm versions like there were for the TC3. V2 vs V1 or are the V2 the new standard?
-is anyone running a Shorty? is a Std length pack best?
-For those with competitive TC4s, is there a list of "Must Haves" or "Mods" that will make this car MORE competitive.
I really am excited to get my car running again. I've tried looking now and then for a used Diggity roller, but they seem few and far between. Has anyone run the Diggity vs the AE version side by side? are there any advantages either way?
MOmo
What all conversions our there that are still available are worth exploring?
-Diggity
-AE
-ExoTeck
-Penguin
-Etc?
I'm seriously looking hard at that option and would really like to make a competitive race car from my TC4. I just hate to pour a bunch of $$ into it.
(But since I have spares between it and my TC3, I might as well)
-I happen to have the ASC 1way Part #: 1728, will this give me any advantage in VTA?
-Are people favoring a Spool in the F or R or utilizing diffs?
-presume the AE FT Shocks from my TC3 would be the best option?
-Are there different arm versions like there were for the TC3. V2 vs V1 or are the V2 the new standard?
-is anyone running a Shorty? is a Std length pack best?
-For those with competitive TC4s, is there a list of "Must Haves" or "Mods" that will make this car MORE competitive.
I really am excited to get my car running again. I've tried looking now and then for a used Diggity roller, but they seem few and far between. Has anyone run the Diggity vs the AE version side by side? are there any advantages either way?
MOmo
After the BMI chassis a slipper spool in the front, 4' castor blocks, VCS2 upgrade shocks with losi pistons or some Tamiya TRF's and a good matched spring kit (not AE kit springs) and your good to go. IRS diff's and driveshafts are nice but not essential, it will make the car lighter sure but weight isn't everything, balance is more important. The car is really heavy in the ass so move the wishbones to the rear to get the weight forward and space the motor forward with a 3mm+ spacer plate.
10-03-2014, 11:11 AM
I personally like my tub chassis for USGT and VTA. ( I have the carbon version). I balance my car best I can by running a shorty pack and my esc in the tray with it. As fa as lcds I've looked everywhere high and low. They don't exist. Put a ball diff or slipper spool in the front and be done.
10-03-2014, 04:56 PM
Well , you can always use a steel ball diff with ofna diff lock lube in it(ala tamiya m03)... It should work good enough with tc4 cvd's,but you'll still have chatter.... ...
10-03-2014, 05:02 PM
AMPDRAW Hobbies had some LOSI LCD parts as of two days ago...looks like somebody was smart and cleaned them out... .they "had" enough parts to build 2 full sets 
If I find any more parts... I'll post them up in here for you guys
If I find any more parts... I'll post them up in here for you guys
10-03-2014, 05:05 PM
The Australian sites have the lcd's in stock: omp.com.au, modelflight.com.au, ferrarosuperquads.com ,etc...
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-03-2014 at 05:26 PM.
10-04-2014, 10:05 AM
Do you guys now what happens if I change the offset of my car's wheels?
What is the effect?
Right now i'm running +3 front and +6 rear, for using a 200mm body, but would like to use tamiya bodies wich are 190mm. What woud I have to adjust if i make the change to 0 front and +3mm rear?
Thanks
What is the effect?
Right now i'm running +3 front and +6 rear, for using a 200mm body, but would like to use tamiya bodies wich are 190mm. What woud I have to adjust if i make the change to 0 front and +3mm rear?
Thanks
10-04-2014, 01:47 PM
Another great weight shaving upgrade is to switch to a Blitz gsf ultra lightweight body(0.5mm&64 grams) ..... My protoform Mazda speed6 lightweight body weighs 91grams... That's 27grams weight savings up high....wow... Can't wait for my gsf body to be delivered.... Watchout belt cars !!!!!
10-05-2014, 12:14 PM
@hornytoad. Most tamiya bodies I've ran I ran 0 offset all around. But on 0 and 3 I noticed no handling difference. I did notice a slight push when I ran 6 mm though
10-06-2014, 08:34 PM
I recently bought a TC4 to use for VTA. While trying to change the spur, I noticed that the little screw under the head of the drive shaft is stripped, so I can't remove the spur or any of the bearings.
I'm having trouble figuring out which parts to buy to replace the broken assembly. Unfortunately, it's looking like I'll need to buy an entire bearing and screw set for the car, as well as the input shafts and hardware. Is there anywhere that I can just buy a complete spur mount assembly?
Has anyone else had this screw arrive stripped?
I'm having trouble figuring out which parts to buy to replace the broken assembly. Unfortunately, it's looking like I'll need to buy an entire bearing and screw set for the car, as well as the input shafts and hardware. Is there anywhere that I can just buy a complete spur mount assembly?
Has anyone else had this screw arrive stripped?