R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-01-2014, 02:31 PM   #12961
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Talking

I run the tub car, but the diggity design is much easier to make weight with light electronics, which is critical in spec classes... As far as necessary upgrades, I would recommend the IRS aluminum spool with Losi lcd drives, and a carbon driveshaft(ewhippler)... After that, all that's needed is a Parma wide bumper to protect your investment... Cheers....
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 11:02 AM   #12962
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,379
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

There are no more Losi LCD's and they will not be making any more.

On the upside, my steering mod in which I installed an aluminum TC3 steering rack worked great. The car even looks better for it. I think for Vegas I'll probably just show up with a somewhat harder suspension setup on the car and go from there. Buy two sets of the spec tires and glue the sidewalls on one set in case the grip gets too unmanageable... but they ran the same tire/sauce/carpet combo at the Mile High and the grip didn't get that insane. I don't recall rolling my car once at the Mile High.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 11:57 AM   #12963
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile

There are plenty lcd drives in Europe and Australia, just not in the US.... You will have to really search hard, but the idea that there is not even one left for sale in the whole world is incorrect.... The Lcd is the only real BERT solution to the tc4 front spool chatter issue, and should have been addressed by AE !!!
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 04:45 PM   #12964
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,379
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

It just occured to me that Bert is the Wile E Coyote of RC car racing. Bad ideas, poor execution, thinks the show is a dramatic reality TV when it's really slapstick comedy.

The answer to every problem or question is not parts you can't buy anymore and a massive front bumper.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 05:27 PM   #12965
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile

Everything has a beginning and an end !!! Enjoy the lcd's while you still can !!! Don't worry about items being discontinued; they will all be eventually discontinued, but BERT'S solution is FOREVER !!!
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2014, 06:26 PM   #12966
Tech Champion
 
JDM_DOHC_SiR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 9,020
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
There are no more Losi LCD's and they will not be making any more..
You can still find parts to build them up piece by piece if you know where to look in the states... there are a few online shops that still have the LCD rebuild kits, axles and dog bones in stock... just search via Part #


LOSA 3335 LCD rebuild kit
LOSA 3345 Axle
LOSA 3346 Dog bone
__________________
Ȼ4.5 Centro+α ◊ ȻT4.5 Centro+α ◊ TRF 501ӽ ◊ TRF 502ӽs ◊ TRF 503 ◊ TRF 511 ◊ TRF 201ӽr ◊ TRF 211ӽ
B5m ◊ T5m ◊ B64d
Speedway PAL ◊ SDRC ◊ Shop UFO ◊ SMC
JDM_DOHC_SiR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #12967
Tech Regular
 
Conrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Scotland
Posts: 456
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOmo View Post
For folks still running the TC4 and who are competitive, Are you still using the TUB chassis or have you switched to the Diggity chassis? AE Chassis?
What all conversions our there that are still available are worth exploring?
-Diggity
-AE
-ExoTeck
-Penguin
-Etc?

I'm seriously looking hard at that option and would really like to make a competitive race car from my TC4. I just hate to pour a bunch of $$ into it.
(But since I have spares between it and my TC3, I might as well)


-I happen to have the ASC 1way Part #: 1728, will this give me any advantage in VTA?
-Are people favoring a Spool in the F or R or utilizing diffs?
-presume the AE FT Shocks from my TC3 would be the best option?
-Are there different arm versions like there were for the TC3. V2 vs V1 or are the V2 the new standard?
-is anyone running a Shorty? is a Std length pack best?
-For those with competitive TC4s, is there a list of "Must Haves" or "Mods" that will make this car MORE competitive.

I really am excited to get my car running again. I've tried looking now and then for a used Diggity roller, but they seem few and far between. Has anyone run the Diggity vs the AE version side by side? are there any advantages either way?


MOmo
If you can find one, the BMI chassis conversion is the best way to go. BMI fixed most of the flaws in the car and there is a night and day difference between the tub and BMI. The FT AE chassis used exactly the same layout and positioning as the tub chassis but the left/right flex will be more equal, the tub messes up the left/right flex alot due to the step on the motor side of the chassis.

After the BMI chassis a slipper spool in the front, 4' castor blocks, VCS2 upgrade shocks with losi pistons or some Tamiya TRF's and a good matched spring kit (not AE kit springs) and your good to go. IRS diff's and driveshafts are nice but not essential, it will make the car lighter sure but weight isn't everything, balance is more important. The car is really heavy in the ass so move the wishbones to the rear to get the weight forward and space the motor forward with a 3mm+ spacer plate.
__________________
Swith Racing [www.swithracing.co.uk]
Conrad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 12:11 PM   #12968
Tech Regular
 
gooba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: grimes,ia
Posts: 470
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I personally like my tub chassis for USGT and VTA. ( I have the carbon version). I balance my car best I can by running a shorty pack and my esc in the tray with it. As fa as lcds I've looked everywhere high and low. They don't exist. Put a ball diff or slipper spool in the front and be done.
__________________
I spend money I don't have on parts I don't need to beat people I don't know
gooba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 05:56 PM   #12969
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Well , you can always use a steel ball diff with ofna diff lock lube in it(ala tamiya m03)... It should work good enough with tc4 cvd's,but you'll still have chatter.... ...
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 06:02 PM   #12970
Tech Champion
 
JDM_DOHC_SiR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Chula Vista, CA
Posts: 9,020
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

AMPDRAW Hobbies had some LOSI LCD parts as of two days ago...looks like somebody was smart and cleaned them out... .they "had" enough parts to build 2 full sets


If I find any more parts... I'll post them up in here for you guys
__________________
Ȼ4.5 Centro+α ◊ ȻT4.5 Centro+α ◊ TRF 501ӽ ◊ TRF 502ӽs ◊ TRF 503 ◊ TRF 511 ◊ TRF 201ӽr ◊ TRF 211ӽ
B5m ◊ T5m ◊ B64d
Speedway PAL ◊ SDRC ◊ Shop UFO ◊ SMC
JDM_DOHC_SiR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 06:05 PM   #12971
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Smile

The Australian sites have the lcd's in stock: omp.com.au, modelflight.com.au, ferrarosuperquads.com ,etc...

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-03-2014 at 06:26 PM.
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2014, 11:05 AM   #12972
Tech Regular
 
HornyToad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: La isla del encanto...
Posts: 257
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Do you guys now what happens if I change the offset of my car's wheels?
What is the effect?
Right now i'm running +3 front and +6 rear, for using a 200mm body, but would like to use tamiya bodies wich are 190mm. What woud I have to adjust if i make the change to 0 front and +3mm rear?
Thanks
__________________
Good Times Racing
Sponsors: Visa, AmEx, My Wife, My Children's College Fund...
In God we trust.... All others must bring data.
HornyToad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2014, 02:47 PM   #12973
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,649
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Talking

Another great weight shaving upgrade is to switch to a Blitz gsf ultra lightweight body(0.5mm&64 grams) ..... My protoform Mazda speed6 lightweight body weighs 91grams... That's 27grams weight savings up high....wow... Can't wait for my gsf body to be delivered.... Watchout belt cars !!!!!
bertrandsv87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 01:14 PM   #12974
Tech Regular
 
gooba's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: grimes,ia
Posts: 470
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

@hornytoad. Most tamiya bodies I've ran I ran 0 offset all around. But on 0 and 3 I noticed no handling difference. I did notice a slight push when I ran 6 mm though
__________________
I spend money I don't have on parts I don't need to beat people I don't know
gooba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 09:34 PM   #12975
Tech Apprentice
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 73
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I recently bought a TC4 to use for VTA. While trying to change the spur, I noticed that the little screw under the head of the drive shaft is stripped, so I can't remove the spur or any of the bearings.

I'm having trouble figuring out which parts to buy to replace the broken assembly. Unfortunately, it's looking like I'll need to buy an entire bearing and screw set for the car, as well as the input shafts and hardware. Is there anywhere that I can just buy a complete spur mount assembly?

Has anyone else had this screw arrive stripped?
xen0ph0n is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Losi XXXS G+ with parts!! Team Orion V2 Hitec 5625 cola R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 9 06-18-2008 08:11 PM
BATTERIES - Team Orion 4200 SHO Team Cells (6 cell) packs................... For Sale 2-Bad Australia For Sale/Trade 0 03-21-2008 02:16 AM
New Items for Sale Tamiya F103gt Chassis Kit, Team Much More CTX-D, Novak, Team Orion Tsquare R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 04-17-2007 08:29 PM
>>> BRAND STINKING NEW NEVER RAN TEAM JAMMIN FACTORY TEAM FTE RACING BUGGY <<<< mach51 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 5 01-25-2007 09:13 PM
F/S Team Associated Factory Team RC18T with Mamba Comp X Brushless and Extras ZeroCool101 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 7 01-07-2006 01:54 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:10 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0