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Old 05-03-2014, 10:04 PM   #12541
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Best way I found was to install the TC6 ball ends and I took a few thousandths off of the bottom of the metal tubes that ride on the bearings. That took a lot of the slop out. But, not all of it.

Also, I believe there is an aluminum system from GPM or something out there. I may give that a go.
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Have to agree with Bert on the high end servo and rpm cups. Ae parts always seem to have some play no matter what though.
Thanks, but the slop is not in the ball cups, the stock steering bellcranks and link can flex all over the place, maybe they're just bad. I wish I could swap the plastic-on-plastic for bellcranks supported on bearings. Or they may just be bad, either way they have raced their last lap.

I'll post a picture when I'm done, but it might be a while...
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:50 PM   #12542
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I never could get rid of the bearing play, and I will try shaving the metal tubes on the next rebuild....
Also guys, I would advise to tweak the tc4 with four digital scales under each tire, rather than with a tweak board... Lots of steering wandering can be corrected that way in addition to reducing bellcrank slop...
Furthermore, I always add a little piece of clear packaging tape inside the servo ballcup only(not on the bellcrank cup) to further reduce play.....
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:40 AM   #12543
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I replaced the link from servo to rack with a factory team camber link to rid that flex. I don't remember what length it is but I'll get my car out and measure later.
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:49 AM   #12544
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As far as the chassis scrubbing the ground, I think a grub screw system ala Awesomatix is necessary or at least a stiff spring plate mounted on the outer A arm mounts in order to create a two stage suspension... That plate would need to be very stiff, but yet allow the chassis to reach the ground before breaking the A arm.... The plate would have the shape of the A arm mounts and be held by nuts on the longer mount screws(4-40x3/4”)... Shimming the plate will be necessary to control how far down the suspension goes....

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Old 05-04-2014, 02:06 PM   #12545
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I replaced the link from servo to rack with a factory team camber link to rid that flex. I don't remember what length it is but I'll get my car out and measure later.
Nah, that's not it. I just ordered an ancient billet aluminum TC3 sliding rack, and as I can drill really precise holes with my mill I will be installing it instead of the bellcranks. I just hope I don't break it, might swap the rigid steering arm for a servo saver.
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:12 AM   #12546
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Hello fellow TC4 owners. I picked up a TC4 a few weeks ago for outdoor use. I meet up with a few friends on Fridays at 5pm and set up a course outside of a friend's auto repair shop for some "run what you brung" racing. I originally used my Spec-R VTA car and damaged far too much stuff, which promted me to buy a shaft drive car.
Today was my second time out with the TC4, and wouldn't you know it; I broke the steering rack. I'm going to order a replacement, but I'm afraid it will just fail again. I have a hard xray bumper that I will install. ... hopefully that will help prevent damage in the future. I have a mini milling machine, so might try making an aluminum rack.
Anyways, can any of you recommend tires that work well on dirty asphalt in cooler temperatures? I've been running old Jaco Blues (32's) but they aren't sticking all that well. HPI x-patterns aren't working very well either.
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Team Associated TC4-20140429_183621-01.jpg   Team Associated TC4-20140509_184736-01.jpg  

Last edited by DBM; 05-10-2014 at 01:17 AM. Reason: added pics
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:47 AM   #12547
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You need a tc4 parma wide bumper, tire sauce, and a good setup.....
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:39 PM   #12548
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I replaced the stock axles in my Spec-r's with djc's, so I have the stock axles left over. The lengths are correct, so with a bit of machining, I might be able to get them to work in the TC4. Will be nice to be able to have a tighter turning radius without worry of the crappy plastic dogbones failing. I will also try milling a new rack out of aluminum on my mini mill. It won't look pretty, but hopefully will get my car back in action before next friday's parking lot shenanigans.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:00 PM   #12549
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I replaced the stock axles in my Spec-r's with djc's, so I have the stock axles left over. The lengths are correct, so with a bit of machining, I might be able to get them to work in the TC4. Will be nice to be able to have a tighter turning radius without worry of the crappy plastic dogbones failing. I will also try milling a new rack out of aluminum on my mini mill. It won't look pretty, but hopefully will get my car back in action before next friday's parking lot shenanigans.
Associated 2402 CVA's are bullet proof and a direct fit

Also u might want to move that switch

Aluminum steering rack : http://www.ebay.com/itm/GPM-ALUMINUM...item588af762a8
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:10 PM   #12550
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Thanks for the links! I'll order those parts in the near future. For now, I'll try making my own stuff work for now, just so that I can have the car up and working asap.
You are correct. ..I need to relocate the switch. I had the calibrate botton get hit with a stone, and also had the switch get moved into the off position more than once while driving on the street. Making a little guard plate might also suffice.

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Associated 2402 CVA's are bullet proof and a direct fit

Also u might want to move that switch

Aluminum steering rack : http://www.ebay.com/itm/GPM-ALUMINUM...item588af762a8
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:11 PM   #12551
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What's a good fdr to start with 9t brushed motor. The manual says 9.00 any other recommendations?
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:07 AM   #12552
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Finished my homemade steering rack and modified spec-r R1 axles. I had to machine the axle stubs down from 5mm to 4.73mm to fit the tc4 bearings, and had to machine down the ball on the other end of the axles to 6.2mm to fit in the outdrives.
The rack is overkill, but the GF didn't want me in the garage all night. Maybe I'll hog some more weight out of it another night.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:12 PM   #12553
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A 9t brushed at 9.0fdr is good for carpet mod Racing..... If you are running outside on asphalt, you will need about 7.8fdr.......good luck.... Mod brushed motors can compete on carpet tracks with brushless, not asphalt.........
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What's a good fdr to start with 9t brushed motor. The manual says 9.00 any other recommendations?
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:31 PM   #12554
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Mod brushed motors can compete on carpet tracks with brushless, not asphalt.........
Explain please.
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:14 PM   #12555
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Explain please.
Please.... Don't do it. This thread has suffered enough. Bert is so full of himself he could find an error in a national championship winning car. Just put him on ignore so he can have fun talking to himself.

Do you actually own a Losi type r like you have in your avatar?
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