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Old 04-30-2014, 12:23 PM   #12526
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Finally building my FT TC4 for asphalt mod any advice for the high power output for the diff?
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:56 PM   #12527
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The diff in the rear only(spool in front) can handle any of the current mod motors. I prefer the 3.5t boosted for the Fttc4 with titanium driveshaft or CF.... Just my opinion though....
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Old 04-30-2014, 01:05 PM   #12528
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Cool, What grease? I've heard about the dog bone issue is there an alternative other than the LCD from losi? Because in the states there non existing.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:17 PM   #12529
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There are some chinese front one way cvds on ebay but I dont know that I trust them. I switched my car to Lightweight aluminum ball diffs in both ends of my car and lightweight cvds and havent looked back
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:03 PM   #12530
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I have the older FT TC4 dual deck carbon fiber car
I never saw a spool (is this the same as a one way?) Never saw one
what does it do?
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Old 04-30-2014, 04:04 PM   #12531
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The spool locks both front(or rear) tires together and eliminates any diff action at all. It essentially helps pull the car out of corners harder but also causes cvd chatter
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:19 PM   #12532
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CVD's chatter even with a front diff, you just cant see it because the diff action prevents actual joint noise. CVD's are generally a bad design unless your total angle of steering is going to be less than 20 degrees, a true cardan joint is what you want, and now come standard on some touring cars.
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:50 PM   #12533
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Taking a step back and sold my 6.1 and selling my TC5s..

Anyways going to run a TC4 and have been trolling around the thread. I have some hop up stuff (Ti cvds, whip racing shaft etc.). What are guys doing to the chassis? I thought I read that they were taking the center spline out and drilling holes in key areas. Also looking for asphalt set ups. Going to run in 17.5 (FLOW, Fantom shorty and motor) also running TC5 shocks.

Pumped to be going back to basics!!
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Old 05-03-2014, 04:07 PM   #12534
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If you want a flexy car milling down the center spine and dremeling the wings seems to be the hot ticket. If you want light and stiff(my personal choice) AE still makes most of the carbon parts for the car(not carbon fiber) drilling holes is to save weight with the stock plastic parts and isnt necessary on the carbon or if you can find it carbon fiber chassis
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:54 PM   #12535
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Correct..... Also Ray K. used a light weight lipo shorty pack in 21.5 usgt to win it all, and added weight to the chassis(lowering the CG) to make weight... His Car didn't seem slower than the other racers using bigger packs at the End of the main, and he almost lapped the Field....
Lighter pack = lower CG & not much voltage loss.... it's the way to go.....
I also shaved Off the huge motor heatsink on the motor mount(per Ray K) and glued all the other stuff(wires,fan,caps,etc...) on the chassis..... The battery wires also need to be secured with zipties....

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Old 05-03-2014, 08:39 PM   #12536
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I'm tearing down my car in an attempt to solve a few few issues, and I have to ask... has anybody found a solution to excessive play in the steering? It seems to be holding my car back as the play in the bellcranks and plastic cross link is terrible. Thanks, Team Associated, for riding plastic-on-plastic, no bearings. Maybe I'll bolt in an aluminum TC3 style sliding rack, which I guess is more commonly referenced to as an M5 or A700 sliding rack these days.

Basically my plan is to get this car to a Stage 2, which is when you've run the car for a while and do a full teardown to apply some of the more invasive mods and changes that you learned about while racing. It's a Diggity car so I'm going to narrow down the chassis to try to fix the chassis drag, and the car also seemed to want to take a tweak when I flexed the chassis by hand so while it's apart I need to give that a shot. Might be the top deck. Hopefully my end result will be pretty okay.

I got my mill going, finally, so now the impossible is now merely difficult and time-consuming.
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:50 PM   #12537
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Current pics would be nice too!!!
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Old 05-03-2014, 08:58 PM   #12538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I'm tearing down my car in an attempt to solve a few few issues, and I have to ask... has anybody found a solution to excessive play in the steering? It seems to be holding my car back as the play in the bellcranks and plastic cross link is terrible. Thanks, Team Associated, for riding plastic-on-plastic, no bearings. Maybe I'll bolt in an aluminum TC3 style sliding rack, which I guess is more commonly referenced to as an M5 or A700 sliding rack these days.

Basically my plan is to get this car to a Stage 2, which is when you've run the car for a while and do a full teardown to apply some of the more invasive mods and changes that you learned about while racing. It's a Diggity car so I'm going to narrow down the chassis to try to fix the chassis drag, and the car also seemed to want to take a tweak when I flexed the chassis by hand so while it's apart I need to give that a shot. Might be the top deck. Hopefully my end result will be pretty okay.

I got my mill going, finally, so now the impossible is now merely difficult and time-consuming.
Best way I found was to install the TC6 ball ends and I took a few thousandths off of the bottom of the metal tubes that ride on the bearings. That took a lot of the slop out. But, not all of it.

Also, I believe there is an aluminum system from GPM or something out there. I may give that a go.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:00 PM   #12539
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Rpm ballcups and shims everything tight first, and then loosen a little at a time until it does not stick anymore.... A digital servo is also a must, with a strong centering level...
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:50 PM   #12540
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Have to agree with Bert on the high end servo and rpm cups. Ae parts always seem to have some play no matter what though.
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