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Old 01-24-2014, 07:16 PM   #12391
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@Darth I noticed this on my club racer also. I looked at every possible thing i could think of and found nothing. I dropped it by my LHS ad they said my screws were too tight. So i took and started to back them off till 1/4 turn at a time and about 2 turns from tight it went away. Ive run it several time since with no ill effects and no screws falling out. Also I bought every carbon part AE still has for the tc4(chassis,arms,"wings",caster blocks,hubs, carbon fiber front tower,carbon front tower mount and a FT screw kit) and with castle mamba max pro,turnigy shorty lipo, a servo thats soon to be replaced(too slow) and a killshot my TUB chassis is down to 1355g rtr minus transponder
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:31 PM   #12392
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@Darth I noticed this on my club racer also. I looked at every possible thing i could think of and found nothing. I dropped it by my LHS ad they said my screws were too tight. So i took and started to back them off till 1/4 turn at a time and about 2 turns from tight it went away. Ive run it several time since with no ill effects and no screws falling out. Also I bought every carbon part AE still has for the tc4(chassis,arms,"wings",caster blocks,hubs, carbon fiber front tower,carbon front tower mount and a FT screw kit) and with castle mamba max pro,turnigy shorty lipo, a servo thats soon to be replaced(too slow) and a killshot my TUB chassis is down to 1355g rtr minus transponder
which screws are you packing off 2 full turns from tight ?? Dosent that make your parts move around ??

carbon composite parts are great for weight savings but they are also very stiff compared to the regular composite, I use the shock towers and steering knuckles ... flex is good if your racing
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:55 PM   #12393
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I loosened the 6 screws that hold down the top diff case. They are tightened till i just start to feel resistance so their tight but just so no movement. For 17.5 on carpet i prefer the stiffness of carbon. I personally feel like it makes the suspension work to its full potential and makes a more predictable car
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:11 PM   #12394
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I loosened the 6 screws that hold down the top diff case. They are tightened till i just start to feel resistance so their tight but just so no movement. For 17.5 on carpet i prefer the stiffness of carbon. I personally feel like it makes the suspension work to its full potential and makes a more predictable car
Thats some serious over torquing, yes that will cause binding and striping

I loosened up 2 turns and ended up with this :

not good
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Team Associated TC4-dsc_0002.jpg  
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:40 PM   #12395
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Did the catch go away tho? If it did tighten your screws back till it starts then back of a hair and you should end up just flush
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Old 01-24-2014, 08:48 PM   #12396
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I actually did try loosening the diff case screws, had the same problem. I may have a wonky gear in there. I'm going to have to pull it apart again to check.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:19 PM   #12397
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Since the Lcds are no more will anything else fix the frontend chatter? I have aluminum cvds on the way but i believe they still chatter. Am I just stuck with it?
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:19 PM   #12398
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Did the catch go away tho? If it did tighten your screws back till it starts then back of a hair and you should end up just flush
I dont have a binding problem, just questioning your advice to back out 2 full turns on a properly tightened screw ... the result is in the pic Your seriously overtorqueing your screws if you can back them out 2 turns and still have the head of the screw flush with the part
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:52 AM   #12399
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I never told you to back yours off 2 turns i said my car had same issue and it was about 2 turns out to fix it. maybe it was too tight but backing them out fixed my issue
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:28 AM   #12400
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@mopar. My car may very well have been over tightened and binding I also think I used a longer screw in the rear diff case as i took my car back apart this morning to work on front end chatter and my rear screws are longer than the front. guess thats what happens when you make your own screw kit
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Old 01-25-2014, 12:02 PM   #12401
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Last night in VTA, I tried running my batts forward. Overall it gave me more steering, but at the expense of making the rear end a bit too loose (off throttle in the center of the corner).

What setup change (other than more rear toe) would people advise to lock down the rear more. I'm looking for general advice and not anything specific to my setup.
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:52 PM   #12402
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Last night in VTA, I tried running my batts forward. Overall it gave me more steering, but at the expense of making the rear end a bit too loose (off throttle in the center of the corner).

What setup change (other than more rear toe) would people advise to lock down the rear more. I'm looking for general advice and not anything specific to my setup.
My base carpet set up http://gregrojna.com/trash/2013/tc4%20birds.pdf
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Old 01-25-2014, 03:42 PM   #12403
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More rear toe gave me less traction than One degree toe.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
Last night in VTA, I tried running my batts forward. Overall it gave me more steering, but at the expense of making the rear end a bit too loose (off throttle in the center of the corner).

What setup change (other than more rear toe) would people advise to lock down the rear more. I'm looking for general advice and not anything specific to my setup.
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:06 PM   #12404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
Last night in VTA, I tried running my batts forward. Overall it gave me more steering, but at the expense of making the rear end a bit too loose (off throttle in the center of the corner).

What setup change (other than more rear toe) would people advise to lock down the rear more. I'm looking for general advice and not anything specific to my setup.
Things I would try:

Less SXT on front tires
Lower rear camber link on chassis(roll center)
Raise rear arm blocks
Softer rear springs
Wider front hex
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:03 PM   #12405
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Well, you can try the tamiya dcj's , and ream the tc4 hub carriers from 3/8”(9.525mm) to 10mm.......... Tamiya uses 5x10x3mm Bearings vs 3/16”x3/8”x1/8” ...... The total dcj length needs to be 75 to 76mm, and the pinhole to bearing distance need to be the same as in the tc4 axles...... Good luck........
Also by doing this mod, you will be able to use any dcj with 5mm axles(xray t4 etc...)... It's not really hard to find a straight 10mm reamer at Mcmaster.com part#: 2822A48 , and 5x10x3mm Bearings(AE #91156)....
Quote:
Originally Posted by gooba View Post
Since the Lcds are no more will anything else fix the frontend chatter? I have aluminum cvds on the way but i believe they still chatter. Am I just stuck with it?

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 01-25-2014 at 10:17 PM.
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