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Old 12-12-2013, 11:05 AM   #12271
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Originally Posted by DJayhawk View Post
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This is a newb question but what does the acronym FDR stand for?
Final Drive Ratio
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Old 12-12-2013, 11:45 AM   #12272
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Adding to what Mopar said, the transmission ratio of a TC4 is 2.5, so you take the ratio of the pinion and spur (30p and 60s would give you a 2.0) and multiply it by the transmission ratio to get the final drive ration (2.0 x 2.5 = 5.0)
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:17 PM   #12273
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Why does it seem like nobody uses 64 pitch? It's probably easier to get big pinions in 64 than 48, and you don't need two sets to run pan cars and other stuff as well.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:18 PM   #12274
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Originally Posted by DJayhawk View Post
Thanks for the replies.

Here are the rules from the local track in Kansas City Fastlane Raceway:

TransAm
4WD TC chassis
4 cell NiMh batteries with ROAR approved 17.5 Brushless or 27t, 24 deg brushed motors
ROAR Approved 7.4v Lipo with Novak 21.5T brushless motor
HPI Vintage treaded tires and vintage wheels
1450g minimum weight

With that listed what are your suggestions for a motor/esc setup.

This is a newb question but what does the acronym FDR stand for?
Interesting rules. They seem highly modified from official VTA rules. Is that it all there is? If so, you probably want to confirm the ESC rules with the track. VTA provides a list of approved non-timing ESCs. If there is no ESC restriction, then it opens your options up a bit.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:29 PM   #12275
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Interesting rules. They seem highly modified from official VTA rules. Is that it all there is? If so, you probably want to confirm the ESC rules with the track. VTA provides a list of approved non-timing ESCs. If there is no ESC restriction, then it opens your options up a bit.
these look like usvta rules from 2009, only thing missing is 4.2FDR limit.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:44 PM   #12276
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Hey Guys - Fixing up my tc4 and trying to replace the cvd (dogbone with only one end a dogbone) but cant figure out how to get apart the wheel assembly to get the cvd far enough out to get the pin off. Anyone know of a magic screw to make it come off? So far I pretty much only have the wheel off.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:44 PM   #12277
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Hey Guys - Fixing up my tc4 and trying to replace the cvd (dogbone with only one end a dogbone) but cant figure out how to get apart the wheel assembly to get the cvd far enough out to get the pin off. Anyone know of a magic screw to make it come off? So far I pretty much only have the wheel off.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-14-2013, 10:46 PM   #12278
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Originally Posted by TheYellowDart View Post
Hey Guys - Fixing up my tc4 and trying to replace the cvd (dogbone with only one end a dogbone) but cant figure out how to get apart the wheel assembly to get the cvd far enough out to get the pin off. Anyone know of a magic screw to make it come off? So far I pretty much only have the wheel off.

Thanks!!
If you got the hex, pin, and such off, the axle/CVD assembly should slide out. Once you have it out, there is a black setscrew in the eye of the steel axle which you bend the CVD to full articulation you should be able to remove, or at least loosen enough to pull the CVD pin.

Associated has exploded views available online, and there's probably youtube videos of it as well,
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Old 12-19-2013, 05:41 AM   #12279
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I had my TC4 out to Lou's Speedway near London Ontario Canada for the second time and broke the 8 Minute Canadian Vintage TransAm Track record that I set first time out by just over a lap. I have a Diggity Conversion and Yokomo Shocks and Wippler Drive Shaft. All the plastic is stock Club Racer. I'm working on a second TC4 / Diggity for Stock TC.

I ran a Stock Chassis TC4 Club Racer a couple of times over a year ago (with Xray Plastic Shocks the only hopup) which won every CVTA Race it was entered in. These cars are extreme value.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:12 AM   #12280
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Originally Posted by ElliotCanada View Post
I had my TC4 out to Lou's Speedway near London Ontario Canada for the second time and broke the 8 Minute Canadian Vintage TransAm Track record that I set first time out by just over a lap. I have a Diggity Conversion and Yokomo Shocks and Wippler Drive Shaft. All the plastic is stock Club Racer. I'm working on a second TC4 / Diggity for Stock TC.

I ran a Stock Chassis TC4 Club Racer a couple of times over a year ago (with Xray Plastic Shocks the only hopup) which won every CVTA Race it was entered in. These cars are extreme value.
Throw up a picture if you have it ElliotCanada.
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:20 AM   #12281
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Diggity Designs DC4 write up

http://www.rcsoup.com/2013/12/diggit...c4-conversion/
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:35 PM   #12282
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Nice write up, but still alot of things that could have been upgraded to make even more of a difference: CF shaft, no seal Bearings, better battery(65+C), lightweight input shafts, hirosaka gears, ceramic balls, aluminum diff outdrives, aluminum spool, etc........ These little things add up to alot....
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:40 PM   #12283
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In performance and $$$
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Old 12-19-2013, 03:48 PM   #12284
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Well to get Performance you need to spend a little on the tc4 versus alot on the newer chassis out there... The tc4 is super cheap and won't need constant maintenance for years to perform: it's a win win situation !!!
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Old 12-21-2013, 12:06 AM   #12285
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Nice write up, but still alot of things that could have been upgraded to make even more of a difference: CF shaft, no seal Bearings, better battery(65+C), lightweight input shafts, hirosaka gears, ceramic balls, aluminum diff outdrives, aluminum spool, etc........ These little things add up to alot....
Uhh...why bother spending the money if he's kicking rear with it as-is? The GREAT majority of that list you'd only see a difference on the clock if your last name happens to be Blackstock or the like...average club racer need not apply. If they make you FEEL gee-whiz that's awesome, but they're really just bling bling to make you feel fast.
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