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Old 11-15-2013, 10:22 AM   #12136
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I have a standard locked spool in my car. Broke an LCD joint last week when I grazed the inside of a corner, initally I thought I had just broken the pin, but it was not just the pin but the metal housing of the axle shaft where the first LCD joint holds it together. Those things are a bitch to find these days.

From here on, slipper spool.
amain has good stock for losi LCD parts.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:42 AM   #12137
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That's what I thought, no videos !!!!
I have seen pictures of your Car desert, you don't have a parma bumper in your Car, and your axles are not shaved !!! The slipper spool is the best for folks who run that way for sure, but get ready for it to get loose or break the bolt, etc..., all while you'll never be guaranteed to have full power/torque going to your front wheels, and that's with alot more rotational mass too.... No wonder the Lrp motor was overheating, and can't be geared @ 3.43fdr.... I'll keep my spool thank you very much, and keep you guys in my rearview mirror.....lol....
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:52 AM   #12138
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....
Have you seen your own video ?? You are the last troll/bot to be giving out advice ... go back to waxing your body for your next demolition derby.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:57 AM   #12139
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I am glad you pointed out demolition derby...... If the lcd's can handle that for 7years, they can handle anything !!! CASE CLOSED !!! BERT WINS !!! LOL !!!
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:03 AM   #12140
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That was my cleanest run to date !!! The lcd/spool worked fine....
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I ran my stock tub tc4(no drilling) with a similar to Ray's setup on a pretty slippery carpet track with no traction issues at all... I did remove my swaybars though,and my driving sucked after almost a year off the carpet. Here is the video, I am the white slow car:
Http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hHsrh8m...ure%3Dyoutu.be
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:05 AM   #12141
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
That's what I thought, no videos !!!!
I have seen pictures of your Car desert, you don't have a parma bumper in your Car, and your axles are not shaved !!! The slipper spool is the best for folks who run that way for sure, but get ready for it to get loose or break the bolt, etc..., all while you'll never be guaranteed to have full power/torque going to your front wheels, and that's with alot more rotational mass too.... No wonder the Lrp motor was overheating, and can't be geared @ 3.43fdr.... I'll keep my spool thank you very much, and keep you guys in my rearview mirror.....lol....
I am so confused. You mean to tell me that the reason the LCD axle broke at the joint, not at the threads, C-hub, or steering knuckle, is because the very tip of the shaft caught the board, and NOT because the tire caught the board, stopped rotating, and snapped the axle with the torsion?
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:17 AM   #12142
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Yes sir, the axle is the cause, not the tire... You've seen how many times my Tires caught the boards in the previous video, and nothing happened... If my axles were not shaven, I would have broke on the first hit... The rims would crack before you break your lcd anyway, but you need a parma wide bumper to take the hit regardless.... It's a system where all the Parts Work together, so you won't End up with a DNF ....
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:22 AM   #12143
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....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/profile.php?do=ignorelist
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:23 AM   #12144
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The parma bumper also backs up the body in a hit, and deflects the impact of a hit considerably... Keeping your body intact helps protect the front suspension Parts from breaking.... I change my body often, at the first sign of front End damage...
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:31 AM   #12145
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It would be nice for all tracks to use berms, but it's not the case...
A loss is a hard pill to swallow sometimes ....lol... Those who use the ignore list , lose all the time....ahahah.....
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:00 PM   #12146
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It would be nice for all tracks to use berms, but it's not the case...
A loss is a hard pill to swallow sometimes ....lol... Those who use the ignore list , lose all the time....ahahah.....
You just keep digging that hole, dude.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:14 PM   #12147
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I just put this on my car. At first I built it without sanding but the width make it too wide and binded in the diff case. What I did was checked the mesh of the gears after i squeezed it into the case and sanded more on the teeth side so move the spur closer to the pinion. I had some slop there before and that made is whisper quiet and smooth.

Ran 2 meetings with it and I like the traction. Only thing i noticed is that ran too loose you get a weird action when using lots of breaks.

we have one corner where we are tight on the inside of the apex and it's a 180 after a straight. so we all have to break hard and enter the corner much slower. I find the car will not turn in under breaking and kinda skids until is gets slow enough or I re apply power.

but the first time I'm running any type of spool
Thanks for the info. I never thought to sand just one of the slipper pads to adjust the diff gear mesh.

The biggest advantage to building your own slipper diff for a TC3/4 is that you can use the plastic outdrives (to save weight). While it is not the most durable option, it can be used on a more open track where hitting boards isn't as likely.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:47 PM   #12148
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The tc4 spool is just the best, and I would rather beefup the bumper to absorb shocks than do the expensive tc5 slipper spool mod hole, and save the headache...just sayin....
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:49 PM   #12149
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For the price of the pads it was an easy "yea lets try that" I am going to have to find a new set of alum diff outdrives but that can come later.
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Old 11-15-2013, 12:54 PM   #12150
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I could use some info on where to stack the 170 grams on a vta,where the center spline was and corners? using long pack with conventional electronics layout. current corner weights are within a half turn on collars so chassis is as close to be balanced before adding to make weight.
you know who keep you're comments away from my question..
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