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Old 11-14-2013, 07:40 PM   #12121
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By the way, LRP X12 motors overheat alot....... No way to gear them at 3.43FDR.... Novaks run much cooler......
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It is dangerous to recommend someone gear any car gear it up to 3.4:1 or even higher without knowing exactly what they are running and how.
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Old 11-15-2013, 05:41 AM   #12122
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By the way, LRP X12 motors overheat alot....... No way to gear them at 3.43FDR.... Novaks run much cooler......
just so no one gets the wrong idea the LRP motors can run a lot hotter than other brands so they are not necessarily "overheating". In 17.5 I had my X12 running 25-30F hotter than my Reedy motors with no issues, no melt downs, and no performance loss. The best thing to do as everyone has stated many times is to start with a conservative baseline and use a temp gun to monitor 5 min. runs to modify gearing...

i.e. in VTA my local venue everyone basically runs a 4.2 and i have mine geared at 4.17 and have guys constantly asking what i'm geared at because i'm reeling them in on the straight. More times than not if you're 85%+ close on gearing it's not the gearing but car setup & driving resulting in corner speed that will determine what car is "fast".
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:21 AM   #12123
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Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03 View Post
My next upgrade....

Has anyone tried this?

TC5 slipper-spool pads and leave out the rings on the front diff. The slipper pads will keep your gears safe.

Let me know.

It's almost VTA time
I just put this on my car. At first I built it without sanding but the width make it too wide and binded in the diff case. What I did was checked the mesh of the gears after i squeezed it into the case and sanded more on the teeth side so move the spur closer to the pinion. I had some slop there before and that made is whisper quiet and smooth.

Ran 2 meetings with it and I like the traction. Only thing i noticed is that ran too loose you get a weird action when using lots of breaks.

we have one corner where we are tight on the inside of the apex and it's a 180 after a straight. so we all have to break hard and enter the corner much slower. I find the car will not turn in under breaking and kinda skids until is gets slow enough or I re apply power.

but the first time I'm running any type of spool
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:33 AM   #12124
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.. In 17.5 I had my X12 running 25-30F hotter than my Reedy motors with no issues..
Thats not really saying anything, if your running yor reedy @ 120F then sure you can run your lrp 30F hotter and be safe, but if your running your reedy @170F ...
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:39 AM   #12125
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Only thing i noticed is that ran too loose you get a weird action when using lots of breaks.
You need to tighten the Thrust Bolt untill you feel the spring bottom out and leave it there, there is no other setting, you dont want it loose, and dont forget the locktite
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:41 AM   #12126
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
Thats not really saying anything, if your running yor reedy @ 120F then sure you can run your lrp 30F hotter and be safe, but if your running your reedy @170F ...
i didn't want to be too case specific with #'s but i see your point how it's too general with no reference at all.

I was running Reedy motors 160-170 and LRP's were into the 200-210 range consistently with no issues at all. On occasion i've pulled them off the track after 6 minute heats @225-230 and saw no loss in performance on the next run.

I posted really not to give hard #'s but to make the mention that if you are running a LRP motor you may not be "overheating" it if the temps are a little higher than you'd expect...
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:43 AM   #12127
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Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
You need to tighten the Thrust Bolt untill you feel the spring bottom out and leave it there, there is no other setting, you dont want it loose, and dont forget the locktite
+1

I ran one for a while but stopped because no matter what I did (T-nut, loctite, double nut) to keep it tight it would always loosen. Didn't want to have to check it every run just to be sure i didn't waste a heat with a loose slipper spool.
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Old 11-15-2013, 08:57 AM   #12128
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+1

I ran one for a while but stopped because no matter what I did (T-nut, loctite, double nut) to keep it tight it would always loosen. Didn't want to have to check it every run just to be sure i didn't waste a heat with a loose slipper spool.
Strange, been running them for years now and never had a problem, dont even rebuild them, the one in my FTTC4 was built like 3 years ago.
I had one come loose in a TC5 when I misthreded the Thrust bolt into the aluminum nut stripping it out.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:13 AM   #12129
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Just use the regular spool, and forget about it ....
As far as LRP motors are concerned, more heat means more waisted energy, which can lower battery voltage considerably when using a 2700mah pack for a 6minute run... I know you guys are using bigger battery packs(7200+mah), but it will put more strain on your equipment(esc,motor,etc...), which will force you to gear down and lose speed.... Cooler is better !!!
I guess I can overgear a bit running a 2700mah pack, but not a 7200mah pack that does not drop off at the end and burns stuff up.... It's all about balance guys. Just the right amount of energy to produce Work, and not too much on either side, pulling(motor) or pushing(battery), to give you a TQ and win...lol...... That's what stock is meant to be !!!

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 11-15-2013 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:22 AM   #12130
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Just use the regular spool, and forget about it ....
A solid spool can destroy aluminum CVD's in a single run, it also wears out CVA/LCD's really fast.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:31 AM   #12131
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WRONG !!! My Lcd's have been on my Car with a spool for over 7years now with no damage to them at all... The aluminum spool outdrives will wearout, but it lasts long enough for the price.... If you use a steel spool, you will double durability, but the most important part of making your Car durable is your parma wide bumper !!!!
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A solid spool can destroy aluminum CVD's in a single run, it also wears out CVA/LCD's really fast.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:35 AM   #12132
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
You'll need a 12.5mm rotor in your motor of choice, and have fun....
Does this goes for a VTA 25.5 motor as well or just 17.5?
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:38 AM   #12133
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... My Lcd's have been on my Car with a spool for over 7years now with no damage to them at all...
Your car (thats if you really have one) has been sitting on a shelf for 7years.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:12 AM   #12134
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I got the lcd's on my stock Car since 2006, and practiced at FBF and raced at the first 360 track, crashing way more than any pro, and continued Racing at the new 360v2 track until november 2012, and now I had my first meet at Critters this november 3rd with the same Lcd's and aluminum spool in the Car.... 360v2 is reopening mid december,so I hear, and I am sure to get even more runtime on these same drives and spool. I must admit that I don't crash as often as before, but the parma bumper does still require some CA glue... There are many videos of me running/crashing at 360v2 and Critters, where are your videos mopar ??? I don't think you even have one...lol...
I only managed to destroy One lcd drive in my ntc3 when I forgot to shave my axles and ran into the FBF wall at full speed during a qualifier: that's 60+mph in a 1724+gram Car...... The ntc3 steel spool has not been scratched by that incident... They have a video of ntc3 running at FBF too. Again, where is your video mopar??? Do you run nitro ???.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:13 AM   #12135
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I have a standard locked spool in my car. Broke an LCD joint last week when I grazed the inside of a corner, initally I thought I had just broken the pin, but it was not just the pin but the metal housing of the axle shaft where the first LCD joint holds it together. Those things are a bitch to find these days.

From here on, slipper spool.
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