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Old 10-25-2013, 01:37 AM   #11926
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I have not found this to be the case. Cutting and pasting my LRP 17.5 combo from a belt car to my shaft car at the same gear ratio produced the same heat, and if I had geared it up on faith than I probably would have burned something. They probably have some advantage in timing, ESC, voltage, or something else.
+1 FDR is 100% independent from the type of transmission. In fact in 15 years of RC I've only seen one person say this, on this very forum, and TBH nobody's even sure he's a real person. More like a bot that randomly utters the same nonsense over and over again mixing words slightly differently each time.
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:41 PM   #11927
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Not a real person ! Really ! Because of my skin color ! Nice posting buddy from Europe !!! It does not surprise me at all !!!
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:44 PM   #11928
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Moving on..... When will the thinner dc4 le chassis come out ???
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:58 PM   #11929
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How much were you able to shave off the chassis ??? Let us know how it went......
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I just received my conversion kit today. I will be narrowing the chassis plate and will post pictures when it is done, probably this weekend.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:17 PM   #11930
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Switched my FTtc4 from VTA to 17.5 TC and loving it even more it's soo seasy to setup to go fast.

Anyone got a guide for setting up the TC5 slipper spool? Thinking about going from ball diff in the front to the slipper spool. I like the diff actions on our track which mostly 180's

But just looking for more

Another thing. Anyone got any tricks for getting at the motor screws? damn thing is a pain to set the mesh
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:38 PM   #11931
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I cut my AE motor screw hex wrench down a bit(8mm or so), and screw from the side with the rear right tire off.... No big deal after that....
Also, IRS spool/LCD is faster than a tc5 slipper spool, and tons faster than a diff, specially with IRS aluminum rear diff outdrives... Happy racing...
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:17 PM   #11932
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Switched my FTtc4 from VTA to 17.5 TC and loving it even more it's soo seasy to setup to go fast.

Anyone got a guide for setting up the TC5 slipper spool? Thinking about going from ball diff in the front to the slipper spool. I like the diff actions on our track which mostly 180's

But just looking for more

Another thing. Anyone got any tricks for getting at the motor screws? damn thing is a pain to set the mesh
I've been thinking of trying a 17.5 in FTTC4. It hasn't been off the shelf in a couple of years. We race on 60 'X 80' CRC carpet, Medium grip I would say. Looking for set up info. Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:19 PM   #11933
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I run my tub tc4 in 17.5t blinky..... The FTtc4 is too fast for that...
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:12 AM   #11934
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I run my tub tc4 in 17.5t blinky..... The FTtc4 is too fast for that...
OK....whats your tub set up. Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:31 AM   #11935
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For all racers inquiring about the tc4 LCD(losa#3344) mod, here it is :
Http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Xni_LbSmT8s
Trying to help a fellow racer with a TC3...... Can he use the stock AE TC3 wheel bearings with the Losi LSD axles or are different sized bearings required?
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:23 AM   #11936
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Trying to help a fellow racer with a TC3...... Can he use the stock AE TC3 wheel bearings with the Losi LSD axles or are different sized bearings required?
yes it fits, tc3 & tc4 use the same bearings. You will still need to mod the c hub just like with a TC4 ... or just get the AE 2402 CVA's, bulletproof and are a direct swap.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:45 AM   #11937
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I use the tc4 Bearings on my LCD axles... They have a little play, but that's Ok with me...
As far as tub tc4 setup, I run blue front springs and silver rear and 80wt oil in my threaded AE shocks with yokomo (#YS8D) bladders&foams. I also run no shims under the arm mounts, except the rear front arm mount that has a #2 shim... Then, I run 4 shims under the most inner camber link ballstud... I also run an IRS aluminum Spool/LCD combo in the front, and a loose ball diff(IRS outdrives) in the rear.... I run one degree camber in the rear, two degree toe, two degree camber in the front, zero front toe and four degree caster blocks... I run my Bearings with no seals, except the Teflon(only) shielded axle Bearings, and also got a Carbon Driveshaft... I run Novak(heavy) electronics and standard servo, but lightweight is a must have there(tekin rs, low profile servo)... I run a Mazda Speed6 lightweight body, and a TP 3300 pack with a ballistic 17.5t motor(12.5mm rotor), geared at 3.75FDR... I also have a Fttc4 13.5t with the same setup and 4.16FDR that's too fast and much lighter than the tub car. If I were running a Fttc4 in 17.5t, I would gear it higher like 3.65FDR...
5mm rideheight and 1mm over rideheight droop... No sauce on the front tires, and shortest wheelbase possible, with shocks all the way flat, inner hole on the towers and inner hole on the arms...

Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-28-2013 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:46 AM   #11938
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Here is What I run

Front:
Shocks 35wt #2 pistons Blue Springs
-0.5mm on the A-arm blocks (or just don't use shims)
0 degrees toe about -.75 degrees camber with the 4 degree caster blocks
5.5mm Ride height with 2mm over ride height for droop
Second from the most inside upper camber link hole with 2mm shim under ballstud

Rear
27.5wt Green Springs #2 pistons
-.5mm on the a-arm blocks or just run no shims
3 degree tow block
2 degrees camber
5mm ride height with 1 to 1.5mm droop (over ride height)
most inside camber link hole with 3mm shim under ball stud

Lots of ppl at the track think this setup will not work but it works for me. I brake into corners and stay tight

If you overdrive this setup it will byte you in the can. just sayin.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:06 AM   #11939
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My setup is pretty lazy, and is easy to drive on the black line but don't go off the line... Make sure your track width is 190mm....
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:21 AM   #11940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparSRT View Post
yes it fits, tc3 & tc4 use the same bearings. You will still need to mod the c hub just like with a TC4 ... or just get the AE 2402 CVA's, bulletproof and are a direct swap.
Thank you for taking time to reply,..... I realize the size of the TC3 and TC4 bearings are the same size but do they fit the OD of Losi LSD's? Or must he buy bearings with a different ID to fit the Losi parts?

Thanks for tip on the HD AE parts, he is not looking for increased strength/durability but rather less wheel chatter in the corners while using a front spool.

I appreciate you help with my questions.
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