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Old 10-07-2013, 11:11 AM   #11791
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OK, I'll admit I'm a bonehead. I'll also admit that I'm lazy. I'm building a TC4 for USGT and I'm using 6mm offset HPI wheels. I'm having trouble getting the nuts tight and decided to put 5mm diameter washers between the nuts and the wheel (because the nutdriver won't get in there deep enough). Can someone share a more elegant solution?
The most elegant solution is to re-thread a 4mm/m4 locknut using an 8-32 tap tool. Make sure to re-thread the metal part of the nut and not the nylon/plastic locking ring. Here is a link on Harbor Freight for tool & die sets (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...ult?q=8-32+tap).

You will now have to use a metric wheel wrench to attach the locknuts onto the wheels, but they work much better with the deep offset wheels. I bet if you ask around at your local track, someone has one of the silver cross shaped tools that come with every newer R/C car that uses metric wheel nuts.

Luckily I had another racer convert some metric wheel nuts to 8-32 threads for me. I am very happy with the end result as they are easier to install into deep offset wheels. Also I have not had any issues with the wheel nuts backing off.

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Another DIY quick/free solution is the grind down or sand the outside diameter of the plastic wheel wrench that is included with every TC4 kit. I have used this as a solution in the past for deep offset wheels. You just have to be careful to not remove too much material on the tool and to carefully remove the wheel nut. It is easy to damage the plastic tool

You can buy replacement Associated #6956 Molded Tools for about $5 USD. Here is a link on TowerHobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX3496&P=7)

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Another option is to purchase offset wheels that don't have a deep "hole" where the wheel nut goes. (Note: The HPI Pre-mount "D" compound tires do have the deep "hole"). This is only an option if you are going to glue tires to wheels (which can be more expensive compared to pre-mounts).

Doing a quick search, it looks like the HPI Work Meister S1 Wheel doesn't have the deep hole for the wheel nut. They come in 3mm, 6mm, 9mm offset. Here is a link (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I+s1&search=Go)

Another option that I've used in the past on a TC3 is the Racing Stock Car wheel. It comes in a 1mm offset, which would be good on a body that is narrow front/rear or a 190mm body. One benefit of the Stock Car wheel is that is a bit more durable/stiffer due to the design of the wheel. Here is a link (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKKV3&P=7).

NOTE: HPI also sells Stock Car Wheels for their Vintage Tires. Make sure to buy the Stock Car Wheels for regular 1/10 touring car tires.

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Speaking of HPI VIntage Tires, some racers actually use 26mm Vintage Wheels/Tires on their USGT cars. Many tracks only require any 26mm treaded tires in their USGT class and don't specify X-patterns. All of the vintage wheels easily use the stock nuts on the TC3/TC4. The 26mm vintage wheels only come in 0mm offset. Here is a link (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...eels&search=Go)

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And finally, there is always the needlenose pliers solution. Obviously it isn't an elegant solution as you tend to scratch up the wheel nuts quickly and sometimes pinch your hand in the process of working on the wheels.

Hope this is an informative post.
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Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 10-07-2013 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:26 AM   #11792
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Thanks, INDY!!

I have a friend with a lathe. I'll ask him to machine down a wrench. I like the S1 wheel idea as well. For now, I have a 5mm washer between the wheel and the nut and that allows me (just barely) to tighten the nut enough.
Back in the day, HPI made 5-spoke wheels for trucks that came with a set of plastic universal adapters. They also came with an aluminum washer to put between the nut and the wheel. Wish I could find a couple of sets of those again.

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Old 10-07-2013, 11:56 AM   #11793
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Oh, I forgot an option since you are putting axle spacers on the OUTSIDE of the wheel (before putting on the wheel nut).

You can purchase the Team Associated #2402 Universal drive (complete cvd/bone assembly). Here are a few links:
Associated - http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/2402/
Tower - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCZD1&P=7

The threads on the uni-drive are longer than the standard TC3/4 stub axles. Since the thread stick out further with a wheel mounted, it will give your standard nut more threads to bite onto. It may be a decent option for using an axle spacer between the wheel and the lock nut (except you will have to purchase it).

The uni-drive is steel or heavier than stock parts. It can be a good option for durability when running a front spool. It can cause the front to chatter a bit when turning.

If I get a chance, I will post a photo of a standard TC4 cvd assembly next to the uni-drive

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Since you are using the axle spacer on the outside, I would also suggest picking up some Associated #3438 8-32 low profile locknuts. Here are some links:

Associated - http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/3438/
Tower - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2459&P=7

The low profile nuts are thinner and will allow you to get more of the axle thread into/through the plastic locking nut.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:44 PM   #11794
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Awesome! You da MAN, Indy!
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:13 PM   #11795
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Quote:
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Nobody will let go of their tc4 CF kit as fast as their tub chassis... A better bet is to get a very cheap ($30) tc4 tub kit, and convert it with the $200 dc4 le CF kit, so you can endup with a top contender for cheap....
Where can I find a $30 tc4 tub kit? Associated is selling the kit on their website for $150.
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:42 PM   #11796
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The carbon shaft is significantly better, specially when combined with lightweight spool/diff outdrives & lightweight Tires.... Yes I weigh my spec Tires, and true them to lose two or three grams per tire too: that's 12+grams total , the furthest from the Center of rotation !!!! Big difference !!!!
Thank you bertvansv87....for the feedback..ill go on purchase this upgrades..cant wait to mount on..peace
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:59 PM   #11797
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Default ...diff nuts.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
OK, I'll admit I'm a bonehead. I'll also admit that I'm lazy. I'm building a TC4 for USGT and I'm using 6mm offset HPI wheels. I'm having trouble getting the nuts tight and decided to put 5mm diameter washers between the nuts and the wheel (because the nutdriver won't get in there deep enough). Can someone share a more elegant solution?
Greetings nut driver .... would a possible solution to securing the deeper offset wheels be the use of the plastic diff nut (X4) that 1/12 scale drivers were to use on their cars? I previously had that same set back til I came across this solution.Good luck.
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:24 PM   #11798
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Wd40, I put the $30 price tag down to illustrate a very good ebay deal ,not to suggest that you can get such a deal on a new kit ....
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:33 PM   #11799
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Also, to get your tc4 track width setup, Schumacher makes aluminum wheel spacers very cheap (#schu4321) ... Good luck guys at the IIC.....
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Old 10-08-2013, 06:47 AM   #11800
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congratulations for your new shop.we are a factory ,we produce wires and connectors ,adapters,switches ,tyre warmer ,tools ,propeller ,prop balancer ,lipo tester ,lipo checker ,and so on ,we major in a comprehensive accessories in car and plane and so on and some good products around them ,hoping we can service for your company .
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:14 AM   #11801
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Need some good advice.

I plan on racing a newly acquired FT TC4 with a graphite chassis. I can run either VTA or 17.5 Touring blinky. I am not new to racing as I race off-road. I even had an Associated 10L in the 1990's. I have a series of questions..
Should I decide to run VTA where can I get a driver figure?

What does blinky mean?

What ESC/and 25.5 motor combo should I purchase. I am looking at this one... I want to buy quality and not have to repurchase down the road.. It should be known that I have a Novak 17.5 motor...came with purchase and I may want to use it... I would like to have an ESC that can handle both and capable of winning in both classes.... Or I could just purchase an ESC and use the 17.5....

Here is the combo that I looked at..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tor-Combo-255T

Does anyone know if there is a better motor mount for the TC4? It's hard to get to the bottom screw....

Is there a limit on the mah for batteries for 17.5 blinky and VTA? I have many packs, but would prefer to use my 5100mah. I could always purchase a new pack or use my older <5000 mah packs but I would prefer not to...

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:17 AM   #11802
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On another note I need a good steering servo.. Any recommendations.....

Do I need a low profile one? How does one mount the servo to the chassis? I purchased an AE servo mounts...I believe it was part 1779.... Is there another option....
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:19 AM   #11803
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USVTA rules are posted on their website. That will tell you everything you need to know.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:03 AM   #11804
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17.5t blinky(no timing) is the biggest class at any club versus VTA that might not even be run at all... It will also be cheaper to buy just an esc(novak gtb2 xdrive) than to buy a vta 25.5 combo...
Also to keep your FT tc4 light, you will need a low profile servo and a light battery pack(under 250grams)...Cheers...
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:46 AM   #11805
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Well, my local track/club doesn't even offer a 17.5 touring car class and the biggest class some nights is Tamiya TT-01s. The most consistent class has been VTA since the switch to Novak 25.5 motors.

I would always recommend checking out the track you plan on racing at to see what the popular classes are before buying anything for a specific class. Talk to as many people as you can (racers, track owner, on site hobby shop, etc...) to get a more complete picture of a facility. Don't just rely on individuals with high post counts online for advice (including me).

If VTA is class at a track near you, make sure to find out if they run USVTA rules or ROAR rules. The big difference is ROAR allows any 25.5 motor and USVTA only allows the Novak 25.5 motors. Also USVTA has a set list of allowed speed controls.

If you want to use a legal USVTA speed control in other blinky classes (blinky=fixed timing in the speed control), check out the USVTA rules for the current list here - (http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html). The least expensive speed controls currently are Speed Passion or Hobbywing.

Don't forget to check out the main USVTA forum here on RCTECH (U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2). There are plenty of helpful people on that thread and plenty of good advice. I recommend reading through as much of that thread as possible, as you will find answers to commonly asked questions.

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As far as the motor mount screw on the bottom of the FT TC4, I use a long allen wrench with a ball type end. Here is a cheap example on Tower Hobbies (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK350&P=7). Depending on the roll center/where the rear a-arms are mounted, you can either go above or below the a-arm to get to the lower motor mount screw.
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