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Old 10-04-2013, 08:48 AM   #11776
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Well, my LRP X12 motor / Novak GTB2 set ran 4.0:1 in my Losi touring car, now it runs 4.0 or so in my shaft car, and it would go nuclear without fans but still gets to 170F with them. It's timed according to manufacturer spec, and the car spins free. If your car runs well at 3.65, thats great, but it's far out of the normal range and recommending it to others with no knowledge of their equipment (you know, besides that it's a Vulcan) or track type...

Start conservative on all settings, then go by lap times and temp.
Yeah, I set it up with the stock 72t spur and a 34t pinion cause i had it laying around from my old offroad gearing. so thats around a 4.25 FDR which isnt a bad place to start. I have the motor timing moderate right now in case it runs really hot but if it comes off after 5 or 6 minutes at a low temperature, ill drive that timing through the roof lol thanks for the help though guys, my first on road club race is tonight and well see how I do!
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:35 AM   #11777
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Fdr start should be 3.75fdr, not 4.2fdr, and timing should be at 40 degrees.... I also run a novak motor in my 17.5t tc4, and 4.2fdr start is mainly for belt cars not shaft cars, which can run taller gearing without running hot..... Just make sure your drivetrain is free, and you're good to go....
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I started at 3.65fdr with my tc4 17.5t and a novak ballistic(12.3mm rotor), with no heat at all after six Minutes, so to me a vulcan(12.5mm rotor) should easily handle 3.75fdr.... If you ask for most racers fdr advice, they will give you what fdr works in their belt cars, not shaft cars, and even when they switch to a shaftdrive, they still keep gearing as if they're still running a beltdrive Car... Old habits die hard !!!
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I only recommended it to the racer because he runs a novak motor like I do, eventhough I run a novak gtb2 vs his reventon.... Lrp motors do get hotter than novak motors, and should be geared like you suggested....
not sure I follow?...you seem to know a lot about the chassis
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:55 AM   #11778
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I only run tc4's and my newly acquired Awesomatix A700.... I came up with the losi lcd(#3344) mod for the tc4, and run other secret stuff too...lol... I constantly refine my rides, and it's fun... My cars will never be for sale !!!
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:30 PM   #11779
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i was wondering which is the better choice to buy the tc4 ft carbon fiber kit on to buy the roller chassis and chang it to the carbon fiber
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:05 PM   #11780
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If you can find a FT carbon fiber kit, it'll (probably) be cheaper. The Diggity Designs chassis for the TC4 has been getting great reviews. (Is it the DC4LE?)
The Diggity conversion is $200.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:46 PM   #11781
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Nobody will let go of their tc4 CF kit as fast as their tub chassis... A better bet is to get a very cheap ($30) tc4 tub kit, and convert it with the $200 dc4 le CF kit, so you can endup with a top contender for cheap....
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Old 10-05-2013, 01:18 AM   #11782
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I started at 3.65fdr with my tc4 17.5t and a novak ballistic(12.3mm rotor), with no heat at all after six Minutes, so to me a vulcan(12.5mm rotor) should easily handle 3.75fdr.... If you ask for most racers fdr advice, they will give you what fdr works in their belt cars, not shaft cars, and even when they switch to a shaftdrive, they still keep gearing as if they're still running a beltdrive Car... Old habits die hard !!!
some serious BS here !
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Old 10-05-2013, 07:00 PM   #11783
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Lots of incredible things happen when running a tc4 ! Not all will believe... Happy Racing...
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:18 PM   #11784
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OK, I'll admit I'm a bonehead. I'll also admit that I'm lazy. I'm building a TC4 for USGT and I'm using 6mm offset HPI wheels. I'm having trouble getting the nuts tight and decided to put 5mm diameter washers between the nuts and the wheel (because the nutdriver won't get in there deep enough). Can someone share a more elegant solution?
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:29 PM   #11785
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Shave the outside edge of the wheel nut driver a bit....
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:11 AM   #11786
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The hollow carbon shafts..to replace the alluminium hd centre shafts..h
Has anyone tried them?. Im sorry..thers too many pages here...its almost impossible to look up for tht particular topic..
I was planin on buying them..but would like some imput..from ya'll
Is it significantly better and enhances performance of the car...
Or just unnoticeble compared to the original alluminium shaft?

Planing on running with a 17.5 or 13.5
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:01 AM   #11787
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The carbon shaft is significantly better, specially when combined with lightweight spool/diff outdrives & lightweight Tires.... Yes I weigh my spec Tires, and true them to lose two or three grams per tire too: that's 12+grams total , the furthest from the Center of rotation !!!! Big difference !!!!
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:07 AM   #11788
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New Sweep Tires weigh 31 to 35 grams , and when they get really worn they dip down to 27grams . That's four to eight grams difference per tire that can free up some power !
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:10 AM   #11789
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Carbon electric Tires might be the way of the future !!!
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:33 AM   #11790
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Originally Posted by NutDriver View Post
OK, I'll admit I'm a bonehead. I'll also admit that I'm lazy. I'm building a TC4 for USGT and I'm using 6mm offset HPI wheels. I'm having trouble getting the nuts tight and decided to put 5mm diameter washers between the nuts and the wheel (because the nutdriver won't get in there deep enough). Can someone share a more elegant solution?
Do you have a deep well socket you could try, or the plastic wrench that comes in the kit?

One thing I do is put the wheel nuts on backwards so there is more for the driver to grip.
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