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Old 07-28-2013, 09:52 PM   #11521
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Just to shed some light on the competition, I got some posted tc average weight ready to run, but without batteries:
Yokomo bd 1070grams
T1 fk04 1035grams
T2 007 1185grams
Tc3 1230grams
Dc4 le (1052grams with room to lose weight)... Very competitive...
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:09 PM   #11522
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Just to shed some light on the competition, I got some posted tc average weight ready to run, but without batteries:
Yokomo bd 1070grams
T1 fk04 1035grams
T2 007 1185grams
Tc3 1230grams
Dc4 le (1052grams with room to lose weight)... Very competitive...
interesting weights. I can add to the list, raced a pro4 today in 17.5 stock and im assuming without lipo my car is at 1055grams ill double check with my when I put away my equipment.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:31 PM   #11523
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Please... don't make me buy any more parts... I already have boxes full of unopened parts for cars I don't even own.

For example, I DO have those Losi axles, and a whole lot more, just sitting around. It's painful, thank God it's all small stuff or I might have wound up on Hoarders

Those weights are interesting, I should weigh my old Losi touring cars to find out how much they weigh without batteries.
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Old 07-29-2013, 07:20 AM   #11524
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Default TC4 gearing

Hi from Germany,

quick question, I bought a TC4 CR and run it with a 6.5 leopard bl and a hobbywing xerun 90a.

im driving it on the onroad asphalt racetrack an sometimes bashing on the street. I need to buy some pinions now and thought of 25/26/27/28 to test the motor-heat with a 69 spur, do you agree? or is 28 too high?

thanks for quick answers
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:27 AM   #11525
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69spur and 28pinion will give you 6.16fdr which is a little high for a 6.5t motor, if you want punch and top speed... I would start with 23t pinion and crank up the timing boost...
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:33 AM   #11526
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Desert, the tc4 original Parts can be a pain to make Work if you just put them together without controlling excessive play. I use lots of scotch clear tape, shims, locktite, ca glue, to keep my steering tight enough to stop wheel wobbles, but could not keep them from wobbling with front cvd vibrations that cause them to become loose again... Front cvd's are the biggest enemy of run to run consistency....
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:35 AM   #11527
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Tria, it would be best to get 22/23/24/25/26 pinions...
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:05 PM   #11528
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Even more info guys:
Xray T4 fully loaded 1358grams to 1370grams
Serpent S411 1340grams to 1381grams
Tc5 lowest weight(unbalanced) 1400grams
Tamiya 417 1340grams to 1390grams
All these cars had similar lipo packs weighing 300grams to 320grams... The guys that had their kits at 1340grams changed everything to lightweight...
The dc4 le can go under 1340grams with the same packs if you also switch to superlightweight components... Diggity design did it....bravo !!!!
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Old 07-29-2013, 11:08 PM   #11529
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Are there any tricks to the drivetrain build of a TC4? Looking online everybody makes their version of gears, shafts, and all the rest, but the stock units feel pretty good so is there really any benefit or is it just a way to lose some money?

Also, I saw somebody who put a TOP gear diff in the car, where do I get one of those?
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:22 AM   #11530
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Well I remove the bearing rubber seals + clean & oil the bearings, and only run Teflon sealed Bearings on all four wheel axles. That frees up the drivetrain alot, and I lightly coat the bevel gears with Teflon oil, no grease, while removing one shim behind the pinion diff gear... I also don't put any foam in the input cups and let the driveshaft move freely... I also make sure the front input cup is not rubbing the steering rack bolt, and the driveshaft is not touching the servo's turnbuckle link....
Some racers go even further and sand the diff case section that holds the Bearings to loosen the bearing pinch(if it's noticeable), but I have not experienced that in all my tc4's...
Last but not least, I run Hirosaka angled pinion gears that reduce the friction between pinion and spur....
If you also want to reduce rotational mass, then you'll need to get aluminum input shafts, titanium axles+cvd, carbon fiber driveshaft, aluminum IRS diff outdrives(I only run them), superlight spur gear, ceramic Bearings, ceramic diff balls 3/32 and 5/64 , balance your tires, and make sure your pinion/spur mesh is correct.....
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:14 AM   #11531
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I did go crazy in One of my fttc4's and did most of these upgrades, but it was expensive and time consuming... On the other tc4's, I just did the Bearings, the aluminum outdrives/spool, and the lcd drives. Less expensive, and Quick with good results...
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:26 AM   #11532
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Some racers also use dry wax on the gears : clean ride dry wax.... I've never tried it before, but will soon....
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:07 AM   #11533
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I did go crazy in One of my fttc4's and did most of these upgrades, but it was expensive and time consuming... On the other tc4's, I just did the Bearings, the aluminum outdrives/spool, and the lcd drives. Less expensive, and Quick with good results...
wow u have a lot of tc4's. U use them all for 17.5 ?

love to see some pics of the modified ones.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:55 AM   #11534
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I run the $0.89 bearings in my car, it actually runs pretty free just checking how long it takes to 'spool down' after a blip of the throttle.

I'm looking forward to racing it against good competition, it felt fast in its shakedown but I've had cars that felt fast go slow and slow cars go fast, I'll have an update Saturday, probably.
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:59 AM   #11535
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I have five tc4's : One 17.5t tub, One mod brushed tub, One fttc4 13.5t, One fttc4 mod 3.5t(supermodded), One 4.5t hv (4s) tub for high speed fun... I use them lightly whenever I find time to race, buy mostly put the mileage on the tub 17.5t... I also have many other cars (all shaft) that I use, so my tc4's stay new, no crazy breakdown necessary ever.... I which I had more free time to race more, but it's not the casr... I am very happy with them, and won't sell them for nothing...lol...
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