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Old 06-04-2013, 11:25 AM   #11401
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Try one degree rear camber, not more than that !!!! Also make sure you clean your tires with a non oily cleaner like Nitro Clean......
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:26 AM   #11402
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What is your Complete setup Please. Also when describing the issues Please make sure to mention if it's loose in the front or rear
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Old 06-04-2013, 12:58 PM   #11403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
What is your Complete setup Please. Also when describing the issues Please make sure to mention if it's loose in the front or rear
Never heard of the front being loose. We usually say loose or oversteer for the rear and understeer or push for the front. Anyway, Here is my set up
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:23 PM   #11404
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Couple of glaring issues...

Shock mount locations: I'd put the rear/lower mount in the outside hole. I'd put the upper mounts more upright in the third hole location inside to outside.

Shock springs: A lot of times the front spring is stiffer than the rears; Blue/Silver is common.

Number of washers under the front ball stud mounts: On the front does that really mean 4 x 20mm? Or should that have been 4 x 2mm which is still a lot. 8mm?

Something else to consider: Dual rate on your radio. I typically turn mine down to somewhere betweenn 70% and 80% depending on track.

I'm sure others will chime in about droop, anti-dive, anti-squat, ackerman, etc.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:32 PM   #11405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Couple of glaring issues...

Shock mount locations: I'd put the rear/lower mount in the outside hole. I'd put the upper mounts more upright in the third hole location inside to outside.

Shock springs: A lot of times the front spring is stiffer than the rears; Blue/Silver is common.

Number of washers under the front ball stud mounts: On the front does that really mean 4 x 20mm? Or should that have been 4 x 2mm which is still a lot. 8mm?

Something else to consider: Dual rate on your radio. I typically turn mine down to somewhere betweenn 70% and 80% depending on track.

I'm sure others will chime in about droop, anti-dive, anti-squat, ackerman, etc.

Hmm, wouldnt making the shocks more upright give it less lateral grip?

Sorry, that should be 20 thousandths, not mm Trying to make them even with the CVD's.

Thanks for the input. I'm a pan oval guy so this is kind of new to me.
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Old 06-04-2013, 01:46 PM   #11406
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Laying them down will make that end of the chassis softer and therefore more lateral grip.

HOWEVER, as i understand it, the change is minor compared to swapping out the whole spring in the first place. There's more to the leverage/lateral grip that I honestly can't remember offhand.

If you are getting loose going into a corner that sounds to me like you have too much front grip and too much steering. That's why a lot of people will make the front spring stiffer than the rear and adjust dual rate.

About those 4 x .020 spacers, someone else could explain roll centers better but that might be too high which increases grip and chassis roll and all sorts of stuff at that end of the car.

Speaking of explaining stuff...
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6143

Great guide with lots of great info.
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:07 PM   #11407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pejota View Post
Laying them down will make that end of the chassis softer and therefore more lateral grip.

HOWEVER, as i understand it, the change is minor compared to swapping out the whole spring in the first place. There's more to the leverage/lateral grip that I honestly can't remember offhand.

If you are getting loose going into a corner that sounds to me like you have too much front grip and too much steering. That's why a lot of people will make the front spring stiffer than the rear and adjust dual rate.

About those 4 x .020 spacers, someone else could explain roll centers better but that might be too high which increases grip and chassis roll and all sorts of stuff at that end of the car.

Speaking of explaining stuff...
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6143

Great guide with lots of great info.
Very cool! Thanks a lot man!!
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Old 06-04-2013, 02:33 PM   #11408
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I used to have to use dual rate on my radio to dial out steering so the car wasn't twitchy until I installed a front swaybar. I'm using the softest one for the TC4 and it works like a charm. I tried the medium bar and it took too much steering out. I dialed all of my steering back in on the radio. I can attack corners hard and if I need more turn in a quick hit of the brakes does it for me.
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:53 PM   #11409
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Blue springs in the front with silver rears seem to be the sweet spot, with shocks laid down all the way front and rear, but two degree rear camber won't work. You need one degree rear camber....
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Old 06-04-2013, 07:23 PM   #11410
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Thanks everyone. One more question, would anyone try shimming up the arm mounts at all?
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:50 PM   #11411
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so I did some searching and some reading about bleeder caps. is it safe to assume I can build them with the stock bobbin and bleeder caps? basically like an off road shock? thanks in advance carl
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:07 AM   #11412
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can this car be taken seriously against the new age belt cars in 17.5t blinky? any necessary add on's to get the car there?
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:59 PM   #11413
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Quote:
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can this car be taken seriously against the new age belt cars in 17.5t blinky? any necessary add on's to get the car there?
We have 3 of these cars racing at our track and they are very competitive.Often beating belt drive cars and also the 3 cars are base kit form the only mod being a ball diff in the front.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:20 PM   #11414
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can this car be taken seriously against the new age belt cars in 17.5t blinky? any necessary add on's to get the car there?
Absolutely! When it comes to efficiency and top end speed, nothing beats a shaft driven car. The balance and component layout of the TC3/TC4 chassis is far more centralized than any of the belt driven cars on the market.

Get yourself some of these spurs

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-60T

and some pinions from about 37t to 43t and you should have a good starting place for blinky 17.5.
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Old 06-06-2013, 01:16 AM   #11415
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ok just a few more questions;
1: can you run 64p gears?
2: is parts availability an issue? ( i havent found a shop that carries most of the spares).
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