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Old 01-13-2013, 07:38 AM   #11026
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Follow up questions on the arm mounts...

Before I start let me say that both of my TC4s were purchased used and already built. Both are "good" (Brian - see above - helped set them up), but why not make them better?

I've seen suggestions to get the Factory Team aluminum arm mounts (circle, triangle, square) to lower the roll center. Someone said to install them without any shims.

My question is, why couldn't you use the stock plastic arm mounts without shims? What do the aluminum ones give you?
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:27 PM   #11027
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The stock plastic arms are as thick as the aluminum ones + #2 shim(standard roll Center height).... If you have a flat grinder, you can sand the stock mounts down as far as possible and still use the shims for adjustability... I prefer buying the aluminum ones, but will probably grind the stock ones in my spare time.....
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:29 PM   #11028
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I notice in your list of upgrades, you listed both for the front and said to use them with no shims.

What about the front of the rear? I already have a 2.5 with no shim on the rear/rear.
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:36 PM   #11029
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I run my rear/front with the stock arm to get anti-squat, which makes the rear stiffer and sends the traction up front during acceleration. It also takes away stress on the rear diff, and puts more stress on the stronger front spool. It also saves you $12...lol... You can also run much softer rear springs and still not bottom out on acceleration....
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:38 PM   #11030
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I forgot to mention that it also makes turning(front traction) better...
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Old 01-13-2013, 04:42 PM   #11031
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Crispy, I think you'll be good with the two aluminum front ones or you could grind the stock ones....
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:15 PM   #11032
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I'll try it that way. I've got them on order.
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:53 PM   #11033
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There is no real need to buy aluminum lower a-arm mounts. PLEASE NOTE THOUGH that the plastic lower a-arm mounts that come with the TC4 Club Racer are different than the plastic lower a-arm mounts that came with the original TC4 tub chassis cars. The Club Racer mounts are thicker.

If you want to buy the original plastic lower a-arms mounts that are the same thickness as the Associated TC4 aluminum a-arm mounts, you will want to buy Associated Part # 31025 (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31025/). You can buy them directly from AE for $4.99 or Towerhobbies for $4.59 (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHZZ6&P=7).

You can then use Associated Part # 31010 a-arm shims to adjust roll centers/squat/kick-up. (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/31010/). You can refer to page 17 of the TC4 Factory Team manual for suggestions on how to shim your a-arms (http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...4ft_manual.pdf)

Below is a picture of AE #31025 for reference.

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Last edited by IndyRC_Racer; 01-13-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:07 PM   #11034
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Brian,

I gave up on that spool in the backup TC4. Put the ball diff you rebuilt in it. I'll try some other stuff with the roll center in that one as well. Can't hurt anything, if I go backwards, I just switch to my primary which is good.

BTW, with all the Tier 1 drivers gone Friday, I finished second to Martin in the A-main...
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:18 PM   #11035
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I guess he means the club Racer arms are thinner...
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:09 PM   #11036
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What is the general opinion of the TC4 Club Racer. I just want a cheapy VTA car that is fairly robust. I am an experienced racer, and I was just wondering what the weaknesses are (if any)
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:18 PM   #11037
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It will be robust with a parma front bumper and losi lcd drives(#losa3344)... If indy is correct and the arm mounts #31025 are thinner than the rtr version, then you should be good to go with them too .....
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:23 PM   #11038
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Average Joe makes great videos about the club racer, but the front cvd's wear fast, so the lcd's up front is necessary with some dremeling of the caster blocks...
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:41 PM   #11039
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Another option to replace the front CVD is to use Team Associated Part # 2402 Uni-drive assembly. This part was made for the Nitro TC3, but is a direct replacement (no modifications needed). These are sold as an assembled unit, but you will need to buy 2 (1 for each side). They are more durable than the stock aluminum CVD, but you can get some chattering in the steering at full lock if you are using a front spool (which is why some people opt for the Losi part).

You can purchase AE Part # 2402 from Associated for $12.99 (http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/2402/)
You can also purchase it from TowerHobbies for $11.99 (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCZD1)

Here is a picture of Team Associated part # 2402 Uni-Drive for reference:

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Old 01-13-2013, 07:43 PM   #11040
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Finally some track time with my tc4 and wow What a difference .5 degrees makes. When I got my FT TC4 the guy before me had the circle block in the front of the rear arm mounts instead of the Square to 1) remove Toe in from 2.5 to 2 degrees (With the 2.5 degree mount) and to widen the rear of the car a little to reduce traction.

Now With VTA rear traction is lots less due to the tires and the widened track width compared to the front.

So going to the Square block with the 2.5 degree X block really locked in the rear but I was still not satisfied and wanted to remove traction from the front as I was still traction rolling. So I grabed a set of 4mm hexes for the rear and 6mm hexes for the front and BAM! the Car was on Rails. Even went so far as to raise the Roll Center to try and make the car transition side to side faster and Gained .3/lap from my old setup. I could dive in harder in the corners without the fear of rolling.
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