Team Associated TC4
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
Have been using the same droop settings with Silver front and Green rear springs (TC3) on low traction carpet and it is working good. No real roll center options like the TC4 but front camber links are high/long for lowest roll center and rear is low/long for higher roll center and more camber gain with no sway bars at either end. Most others are the same at our track for TC3 cars. Not many running TC4s to see how they compare.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
Hey Will I just added it and it seems to flatten out the car once I started tweeking on it...
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I don't run sway bars and I sand down the Roll center blocks by about .25mm and it seems to react better
I'll get some as soon as they come in to the shop. I was a little surprised that that they were not a standard feature with the club racer. I'm basically running box stock but I feel that if the sway bars were included in the kit, this would be a very solid car. I'm actually starting to feel the TC4 is a better VTA car then most high end cars out now. My lap times are very similar to the lap times I get on my TC6.1 butt I feel that I can be a little bit faster with the TC4 for once I get sway bars on.
I run the smallest black swaybar front and rear so I can get a little more responsiveness, but I do measure my track width to exactly 190mm so I don't have a tendency to traction roll.
As far as the tc3 not having rear roll center options, I think it might be best to buy a few extra hinge pin blocks and trim them as low as possible with flat sander or a dremel. It will greatly improve rear traction, and stop that loose rearend from coming around at every turn. I did that in my ntc3 with phenomenal results...
As far as the tc3 not having rear roll center options, I think it might be best to buy a few extra hinge pin blocks and trim them as low as possible with flat sander or a dremel. It will greatly improve rear traction, and stop that loose rearend from coming around at every turn. I did that in my ntc3 with phenomenal results...
Also Justwill75, you probably should get a good tire warmer, so your car will be dialed from the beginning of the race. Watch your car's weight , and make sure you advance your radio throttle trim a bit to get corner speed. You should TQ next time.....
Tech Regular
iTrader: (23)
I run the smallest black swaybar front and rear so I can get a little more responsiveness, but I do measure my track width to exactly 190mm so I don't have a tendency to traction roll.
As far as the tc3 not having rear roll center options, I think it might be best to buy a few extra hinge pin blocks and trim them as low as possible with flat sander or a dremel. It will greatly improve rear traction, and stop that loose rearend from coming around at every turn. I did that in my ntc3 with phenomenal results...
As far as the tc3 not having rear roll center options, I think it might be best to buy a few extra hinge pin blocks and trim them as low as possible with flat sander or a dremel. It will greatly improve rear traction, and stop that loose rearend from coming around at every turn. I did that in my ntc3 with phenomenal results...
If you are artistic with a dremel, you can replicate any arm mount shape. It will take time, but well worth it... The ntc3 front bumper/arm mount did require some careful craft, but I still made it come down from 9.7mm to about 8mm or so... Nothing is easy , but it's possible...
After looking at the tc3 rear hinge pin blocks, it's relatively easy to lower, as long as you get rid of that useless rear bumper. The front block is a different story, and would require a different way to bolt the front bumper to the chassis... The tc4 is way better in that regard....
Waiting on my swaybar sets to be delivered. This is what I've done so far to my TC4.
Blue aluminum CVD's because compared to the composite drive shafts, Blue is truly better.
I slapped on a set of K factory aluminum shocks I took off my old Mongoose/ Team Magic G4.
Blue graphite battery strap. (it just look better)
The car is a beast in VTA racing and is just as fast as anything out now. A few minor tweeks and you can make this car faster than most more expensive kits out there. I eat Xrays for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Blue aluminum CVD's because compared to the composite drive shafts, Blue is truly better.
I slapped on a set of K factory aluminum shocks I took off my old Mongoose/ Team Magic G4.
Blue graphite battery strap. (it just look better)
The car is a beast in VTA racing and is just as fast as anything out now. A few minor tweeks and you can make this car faster than most more expensive kits out there. I eat Xrays for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Nice ride, with lots of room for improvements... Good job !!!
Off the top of my head, there is a list of major improvements possible in the tc4 , from front to rear:
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
#1 : Parma bumper + ntc3 reinforcements(overkill)
#2 : front hinge pin blocks#31064 and #31065(no shims)
#3 : run Teflon Bearings on axles #6906
#4 : front LCD drives #losa3344
#5 : dremel servo saver bolt for clearance
#6 : dremel steering turnbuckle for clearance
#7 : run black swaybar up front and back
#8 : use RPM ballcups all over
#9 : use lightweight electronics and lipos
#10 : use trf shocks or AE shocks with yokomo bladders
#11 : take the foam out of the driveshaft input cups
#12 : make sure track width is 190mm(use #6 washers)
#13 : shave axle stubs sticking out
#14 : use IRS aluminum spool & diff outdrives
#15 : dremel battery compartment stubs flat
#16 : dremel chassis under pinion gear
#17 : cut battery foam spacer so it won't rub the driveshaft
#18 : use rear hinge pin blocks#31066 & #31068(no shims)
#19 : make wheelbase close to the shortest possible
#20 : make droop only 1mm to 2mm over rideheight F&R
#21 : use blue front springs and silver tear
#22 : wax/armor all your ride/wheels/body
#23 : Always run 1° to 1.5° rear camber
#24 : make sure you charge up to 8.5volts
#25 : use only AE clamped wheel hexes
That's all I can recall for now....
Last edited by bertrandsv87; 10-09-2014 at 12:24 PM.
this is going to be a long night.
I must stress that these were done over a long period, and I am sure to have missed a few more. In general , your shock upgrade was crucial.....