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Old 11-28-2012, 02:40 AM   #10861
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I used the TC6.1 shocks and RSD springs/bladders/pistons on mine, and are very smooth. I really think they really help with setup
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:24 AM   #10862
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Tc6.1 shocks are also very good, and follow the same principle. Although I don't know why racers want to build them with low to no rebound.....
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Old 11-28-2012, 09:43 AM   #10863
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I like no rebound because it adds to the spring - I prefer to separate functions. Shocks are for dampening, springs are for bound/rebound.

Call me crazy!
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:09 PM   #10864
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The spring releases much faster than the rebounding damper. The damper takes away(slows down) the spring force, and no rebound takes away more force than rebound, but the idea that the damper adds to the spring is incorrect. Also, if you take away too much force you lose traction. The upgrade necessary here is in the piston valving, which the Rc touring Car world has yet to experience, but for now I like rebound....
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:37 AM   #10865
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If you take it to the extreme, it can become clear. I tried an experiment because I wasn't believed.

I took four of my shocks and built them with bladders (so there was no rebound) and one was plumb full (so there was a ton of rebound) - all the same piston, same oil.

With the four bladder shocks, set up so there was no tweak, everything was "perfect" using scales L-R on the front (arbitrary, just to use one end).

I changed one of the shocks from bladder to no-bladder (rebound) and the tweak was off - the rebound side would now rebound faster than the bladder side. Effectively, the spring rate was slightly higher on that side than on the bladder side. Only a few lbs, but enough that it was easy to feel while driving.

However, if you do it so that it's all even on all four corners, then who cares? I could never get it all even on all four corners. . . so using a bladder equalized my inability to get all four shocks exactly the same.

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Old 11-29-2012, 12:50 PM   #10866
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What I was referring to was an AE shock with bladder/foam and full rebound, Not full rebound and no bladder/foam. With no bladder/foam, the AE shock is of course adding to the spring force, and not dampening at all, if you build it by the AE instructions. My advice is not to build by AE instructions and add the Yokomo bladder/foam, but the shock shaft has to come all the way back out consistantly after every press and release, and there should not be high resistance to press the shaft in the shock body either...
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:34 PM   #10867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
What I was referring to was an AE shock with bladder/foam and full rebound, Not full rebound and no bladder/foam. With no bladder/foam, the AE shock is of course adding to the spring force, and not dampening at all, if you build it by the AE instructions. My advice is not to build by AE instructions and add the Yokomo bladder/foam, but the shock shaft has to come all the way back out consistantly after every press and release, and there should not be high resistance to press the shaft in the shock body either...
With that method (each shock shaft must rebound out consistently after every press or release) your setup its very likely to be upset with any minute oil volume loss from any of the shocks. In my experience most shocks have a little leakage that varies differently between each shock throughout a race day. Thus your tweak is suspect to possibly vary from race to race. But if I build shocks with bladders, no foam and no rebound any minute oil loss throughout a couple of race really weekends does not upset the tweak or handling of my car between shock rebuilds. This works best for me maintaining 3 different cars and the amount of time I have available to work on them each week.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:12 PM   #10868
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Very good point SSLS1, but when you consider the improvement from no bladder to bladder/foam, I will risk a little tweak(which is not important to me) to gain some traction. Remember, I run my Car tweaked/unbalanced in the first place: heavier on the motor side by over 140grams.... I also like it that way because I can attack right turns much harder than if my Car was balanced. I do agree that bladder and no foam is best if you want to stay tweak free though, but whatever you do, at least have a bladder in there... It's too bad most newbies ignore that fact, and then label the tc4 as an inferior Car. I would like to see how the other top chassis would handle with no bladder shocks...lol...
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:34 PM   #10869
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I also want to mention that no rebound slows down responsiveness, and might require stiffer springs, and might not be ideal for short carpet tracks but better suited for big asphalt tracks. Just my opinion though.....
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Old 12-01-2012, 08:32 PM   #10870
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Any tc4 wins or videos lately ????
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:03 PM   #10871
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I am just rebuilding mine for this Winter. My Tubber is going to go to my son (5) for VTA and I am moving my FTTC4 up to Stock TC (17.5 blinky) so trying to get her down to 1380g is going to be tough but she's a great car.

I'll up some vids when we start running
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:48 PM   #10872
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It will be tough if you use a heavy battery pack: any pack over 220grams will make you overweight. Thunderpower 3300 65C packs are 205g to 208g, and are good to try but the side to side balance will be affected. My Fttc4 is around 1390grams with these packs, but my electronics are heavy. I can loose another 70grams by switching to the tekin Rs/spektrum/Savox 1251 combo but that's too expensive...
Anyway, I have found that it is best to never run AE rubber sealed Bearings on the tc4 axles because of the increase braking effect of rubber while cornering. It is best to run teflon sealed Bearings on the axles or ceramic Bearings....
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:04 PM   #10873
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What droop settings are you guys using? I use 1.5mm to 2mm over ride height....
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Old 12-06-2012, 01:01 AM   #10874
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I find that running blue springs in front with silver rear and low roll center is the best balance between roll and responsiveness there is.... All with 1.5mm droop of course...
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:36 AM   #10875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
I find that running blue springs in front with silver rear and low roll center is the best balance between roll and responsiveness there is.... All with 1.5mm droop of course...
I just did this last night. I came in fourth in my tracks VTA class. The car was real twitchy in the first half of the race then it would settle down and would become a beast. Do most of use the sway bar kit?
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