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Old 11-12-2012, 05:07 PM   #10846
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I agree with Indyracer, it must have just been a bad piece, I've hit and been hit hard from all sides, never broke anything....Yet
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:58 PM   #10847
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The parts I've broken most frequently are front-end parts: steering blocks and carriers. My son has also broken arm mounts. Of these pieces, the only ones I'd consider replacing with non-AE aluminum pieces would be the arm mounts. I've replaced blocks in the past on my TC3 only to be disappointed as we've bent steering block arms (should've been expected!). We've also snapped hardware off in the pivot points of the aluminum steering block. I think now I'd rather try to deal with stripping the AE blocks.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:06 AM   #10848
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I just bought a TC4 Club Racer to run in VTA, and now I'm looking for batteries. I can't tell from the pictures I've seen where the wires need to come out of the pack to clear the battery strap and fit in the "box". (most of the cheap packs I've seen have the wires coming out of the side of the end, and that's caused issues in some chassis')
Can someone throw up a pic of a battery mounted in a TC4 so I can see what kind of clearances there are? My car isn't here yet, and I don't want to wait till it gets here to start battery shopping.
Thanks yall - looking forward to getting back into some on-road action.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:23 AM   #10849
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Attached Thumbnails
Team Associated TC4-img_20121012_183358.jpg  
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:08 AM   #10850
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The battery strap on the car in the previous post is NOT the stock battery strap.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:30 AM   #10851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
The battery strap on the car in the previous post is NOT the stock battery strap.
Part #: 31039
Retail: $14.99

FT Graphite Battery Strap, blue with chrome decal
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:16 PM   #10852
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I believe that is the strap that's with mine anyway - I didn't realize the box was longer than a 2cell lipo, so thanks for the pic.
I'm guessing if the wires come straight out of the end of the pack, you could cut a groove in the foam spacer to make room for the wires.... or be sure they come straight up from the top on either corner.

Thanks for all your help DARKSIDE - You'll get to see it pretty soon! (figured I'd bothered you enough to PM you about this - LOL)
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Old 11-15-2012, 02:01 PM   #10853
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always happy to help...
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:10 PM   #10854
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Tc4 track width is around 186 to 187mm, and should be measured when changing Tires...
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Old 11-16-2012, 09:15 PM   #10855
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That might explain the tendency to traction roll/ slow corner speed, etc.... I use #6 flat washers and hpi z694 washers to get to 190mm... I have not tested yet since the 360v2 shutdown.... It's worth checking out, you never know....
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Old 11-20-2012, 08:30 AM   #10856
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Anybody using Yokomo YS-8DMH bladders/sponges in the tc4 shocks ???
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:32 AM   #10857
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I guess you guys already know about that mod....
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Old 11-27-2012, 11:10 AM   #10858
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Bert, What does that Mod Achieve? With using the foam above the bladder are you allowing air to come and go from the cap? using a hole or the bleeder caps?

Just wondering what it does to the shock.

thanks
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:35 PM   #10859
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As the shock piston compresses into the shock, the shaft takes up more space.

Since oil (fluid) is non-compressible, you're trying to ram more volume into a fixed space, which makes the shock actually a bit of a spring.

The bladder caps allow the shock (damper) to really do its primary job by giving a small amount of compressible space (air) that does not interact with the oil but when the shaft takes up more space, the bladder can compensate.


Ever fill your shock completely with oil - get it PERFECT - and then try to compress it all the way? Feel that resistance? There should only be rate-of-speed resistance - a shock is a damper; it controls the RATE of suspension movement; spring changes the force. Without the bladder, the damper contributes to force as well.
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Old 11-27-2012, 06:25 PM   #10860
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Good explanation ! I want to also add that without the bladder, the oil would cavitate(create air pockets/bubbles) that would make dampening inconsistent on top of sucking dirt inside the oil chamber. If your oil is dirty when you rebuild, you need bladders/foams. Also, the foam adds pressure to the whole system, thereby decreasing the cavitating effect and adding consistency and rebound... Most racers nowadays don't like rebound, but I like it.... Bilstein shocks are built on the same principle, but they use high pressure nitrogen gas(360psi) to decrease that cavitating effect even further... It make quite a difference Performance wise, but it really simplifies the shock building process with absolutely no leaks on the first try and a smoother running shock at all four corners....TRF shocks follow that principle with marvellous results, but a high price. That's why the $5 yokomo #YS-8DMH upgrade is best . They'll make your AE shocks perform close to TRF shocks cheaply....
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