THEBIGBULL

iTrader: (5)

Could you pass Darksides instructions for that mod on, please please !!!!

TJ

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

According to Darkside, you need to dremel off all the battery slots on the outside of the chassis, and only dremel off 2mm or so from the inside slots(starting to dremel the part of the slots that's the furthest away from the main driveshaft), until your pack sits flush on the chassis with minimal wiggle room... He did suggest to only dremel the outside slots that will hinder your lipo pack, and not the ones that will contact your battery foam spacer. I like removing them all better, so you will be able to choose from running your lipos forward or back without having to dremel again.....

rctoyguy

iTrader: (21)

Wanting to get into VTA with either a TC3 or TC4 - I'm sure my answer is somewhere in the 700+ pages of this thread, but really, read 700 pages or ask the question - LOL..

Can someone tell me the difference in a TC3 and a TC4? Once I settle on that choice I'll worry about FT or non FT I guess.

Way back when I raced Touring, I ran Losi then XRay, so I don't know the AE cars, but its the way I want to go now.

Thanks y'all!

rctoyguy

iTrader: (21)

Wanting to get into VTA with either a TC3 or TC4 - I'm sure my answer is somewhere in the 700+ pages of this thread, but really, read 700 pages or ask the question - LOL..

Can someone tell me the difference in a TC3 and a TC4? Once I settle on that choice I'll worry about FT or non FT I guess.

Way back when I raced Touring, I ran Losi then XRay, so I don't know the AE cars, but its the way I want to go now.

Thanks y'all!

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

Not a tonne mostly steering rack and a few really small things. I have not looked at a tc3 in a while. but tc3's are still competitive in VTA

Diggity

iTrader: (33)

I need some gearing information for a project we are working on.

Stock gearing? assume something like 78/49 64p
Mod gearing?

With stock motor clamp.

Do you guys still modify the cam so you can go up a couple more teeth?

Thanks for any help!

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Modifying the cam is not necessary when you can change to a smaller spur gear, whether 64p or 48p... You do need to dremel the chassis part that's under the pinion though... As far as mod gearing I stay from 8.0FDR to 9.73FDR with a 3.5t motor....

Reed60

stock 25.5 2s I am now running 73 spur/62 pinion. It is just as fast as any others, with no heat issues.

Diggity

iTrader: (33)

Awesome, Thanks for the info.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I run 17.5t blinky at 3.65FDR, 13.5t blinky at 4.166FDR , Mod 3.5t blinky 8.409 FDR but will soon add esc timing...

rigelkent09

iTrader: (46)

i broke my rear hub carrier today on my tc4 with just a slight bump, im looking for something durable aftermarket one, any recommendations? thanks...

Pellefa

Hi All, I am about to change spur on my 2 tc4 club racers and searched this thread for advice on a "quick" change procedure. I found one post from 2005 claiming you need to loosen 24 screws in the process.

Is that still the case, no good work around available..?

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

The simplest procedure to replace a spur gear on the tub chassis TC4 is as follows.

- Loosen and/or remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the chassis that secure the rear input shaft bearing holder.
- Loosen the 2 screws holding the motor in place and rotate the cam/pinion away from the spur. (You may need to remove the motor if you can't get enough clearance)
- Loosen and/or remove the 6 screws holding the top rear diff case
- Lift up the top rear diff case and remove the entire spur gear assembly. (As you lift up the assembly, the drive shaft will lift up as well).
- Remove the 1 screw inside the rear input cup and remove all of the parts on the input shaft up to the spur gear (take note of the order you removed the parts)
- Remove the 3 screws holding the spur gear in place and remove spur.
- Install the new spur gear and assemble the parts in reverse order.

In total you should only need to loosen and/or remove 14 screws to replace the spur gear on the tub chassis TC4.


Notes:

If you are having difficulty with the top rear diff case, just remove it entirely. Keep the shocks attached to the shock tower and just remove the shock shaft ball cups from the a-arms. Make sure when you are putting everything back together to check that the cvd bones are connected to the outdrives on the diffs.

Once you are familiar with replacing a spur gear, it should take around five minutes for this procedure.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

I suspect that the part may have already been cracked, as it normally takes more than a small bump to break the rear hub carriers on a TC4. I would recommend using Associated hub carriers. If you use a more "durable" rear hub carrier (such as aluminum), you are going to end up transferring the impact forces to other parts that are more expensive or time consuming to replace - such as bearings, hinge pins, a-arms, or even stub axles.

I would just stick with Associated part 31004 for $8 USD, since it comes with 2 universal rear hub carriers and 2 universal front steering blocks. You can also buy Associated part 31005 which is molded carbon which is stiffer, but it can also be more brittle.

-----------

Several aftermarket companies do make aluminum parts for the TC4. I cannot vouch for the quality of these products as I don't use them. Not only could the aluminum bend during a collision, but it could transfer forces to other parts and break them (such as a-arms, bearing, hinge pins, or even stub axles). Here are some links.

3Racing (http://www.3racing-parts.com/shop/te...1_596_666.html)
GPM Racing (http://www.gpmparts.com/shop/associa...1558_1586.html)

You might also check ebay for aluminum TC4 parts.

Hope this info helps

Pellefa

Thanks IndyRC racer!! That should save me plenty of grief...